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Boxkita's random thoughts while wagon collects dust in the garage


What color to paint head & valve covers?  

78 members have voted

  1. 1. What color to paint head & valve covers?

    • Both cherry blossom (Subaru Pink)
      25
    • Both hello kitty pink
      3
    • Heads no paint, covers cherry blossom
      12
    • Heads no paint, covers hello kitty pink
      5
    • Both no paint
      11
    • Profanity - why would do that?
      22


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I did a few track days and some high speed high jinx. I don't think it saw the abuse Boxkitas motor did. After looking it over maybe I'll add that Mishimoto remote oil cooler to my to do list.

 

Compression was great at 140+ all cylinders with less then 3 psi difference and leakdown was fine all under 2-3% if I recall correctly.

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The links above, with the exception of the GReddy one, are for the BRZ which doesn't come with an oil cooler.

 

Our LGTs do come with the coolant-cooled cooler, but under sustained track heat loading they really don't do well without a bump-up in coolant cooling capacity, which is not in abundance where our stock radiators are concerned.

 

Also, given the stock cooler's near-direct connectivity to the block, the OC likely stays much warmer than it would if it were augmented by an out-in-the-windstream cooler. The only downside is that it's out in the windstream where it's vulnerable to road debris and flying objects, and the extra work that the oil pump has to do to move the oil.

 

Better solution, IMHO, is to go with a bigger oil pan, and a higher capacity radiator.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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The links above, with the exception of the GReddy one, are for the BRZ which doesn't come with an oil cooler.

 

Our LGTs do come with the coolant-cooled cooler, but under sustained track heat loading they really don't do well without a bump-up in coolant cooling capacity, which is not in abundance where our stock radiators are concerned.

 

Also, given the stock cooler's near-direct connectivity to the block, the OC likely stays much warmer than it would if it were out augmented by an out-in-the-windstream cooler. The only downside is that it's out in the windstream where it's vulnerable to road debris and flying objects, and the extra work that the oil pump has to do to move the oil.

 

Better solution, IMHO, is to go with a bigger oil pan, and a higher capacity radiator.

 

I had half that solution, and still have covers that look worse at 30k than others at 3x that mileage. Radiator was not a problem until long after I stopped tracking it.

 

Need to look thru Sgt.Gator's thread to see what he did, as his oil was running at normal temps consistently (data to back it up).

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Need to look thru Sgt.Gator's thread to see what he did, as his oil was running at normal temps consistently (data to back it up).

 

He has his oil cooler sort of where the windshield washer fluid was. It was passive initially, but I think he might have added a fan on it / or was considering it.

 

oldschoolbiker tracks consistently in his Outback and has exploded it a couple times and has a oil cooler set-up too.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/vir-full-course-3-27-miles-subaru-outback-xt-2-207081.html

 

I'd add the windage tray, as it keeps the splash off the rotating parts. And remove the AC unit to get more airflow.

 

and installed the windage tray and pickup. But I like my AC. Only reason I would remove it is if I stripped and caged it.

 

edit: just realized I am repeating information to you that you already know....

 

I'll go with this - if you aren't going to track it why go with an oil cooler now? If you do decide to track it, it seems like a pretty easy part to install later down the line.

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I don't track anymore (slicks & 1.25g cornering), however, I still drive it like I stole it. Autox, short road courses, and 5k rpm daily commute. $400 for an oil cooler seems a bit much. So its still, as it was during build out, on the nice to have list.

 

I have visited Gator's car at the track and have numerous pics. His new position is behind a custom duct on the side of the fender for unrestricted air flow. Unless he moved it with the new hood.

 

I'm supposed to be rebuilding for resale, so adding the oil cooler isn't going to translate into a higher price. Although given my bonus (unexpected chump change), I might sell my sonic and keep the wagon. :-)

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I haven't taken my valve covers off yet so we can't compare.

 

I strongly suggest a real oil cooler if you are racing or tracking a lot in summer heat. The factory oil cooler is a joke. I can't think of any other car that cools the engine oil with engine coolant, right next to the exhaust pipe.

 

My cooler does not have a fan, although I can easily add one if the data logging shows I need it. There's a bunch of pics in my thread....here's the best individual post:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4931028&postcount=175

 

If you don't have an FMIC then simply putting it in front of your radiator like a power steering cooler should work fine, using the radiator tie thru plastic holders.

 

Regarding a group buy, I have a wholesale account, I'll see what I can come up with for ya'll.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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I haven't taken my valve covers off yet so we can't compare.

 

I strongly suggest a real oil cooler if you are racing or tracking a lot in summer heat. The factory oil cooler is a joke. I can't think of any other car that cools the engine oil with engine coolant, right next to the exhaust pipe.

 

My cooler does not have a fan, although I can easily add one if the data logging shows I need it. There's a bunch of pics in my thread....here's the best individual post:

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4931028&postcount=175

 

If you don't have an FMIC then simply putting it in front of your radiator like a power steering cooler should work fine, using the radiator tie thru plastic holders.

 

Regarding a group buy, I have a wholesale account, I'll see what I can come up with for ya'll.

I agree with you on this gator. We do not have a real oil cooler. The purpose of our oil cooler isn't exactly to keep the oil cool. The idea of the oil cooler and the placement of it on the block is more used for emissions control. Subaru put those components there for emissions control. Yes. Bear with me.

 

The quicker the car reaches normal operating temps the lower the emissions will be. Its obvious Subaru was considering this because of the 'cooler' location, the catted up pipes in 05/6 and the air pumps in the 07/9 cars.

 

I also believe the horrible stock tunes are due to emissions control (staying lean well into the boost). :mad:

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I agree with you on this gator. We do not have a real oil cooler. The purpose of our oil cooler isn't exactly to keep the oil cool. The idea of the oil cooler and the placement of it on the block is more used for emissions control. Subaru put those components there for emissions control. Yes. Bear with me.

 

The quicker the car reaches normal operating temps the lower the emissions will be. Its obvious Subaru was considering this because of the 'cooler' location, the catted up pipes in 05/6 and the air pumps in the 07/9 cars.

 

I also believe the horrible stock tunes are due to emissions control (staying lean well into the boost). :mad:

 

So the thermostatic oil cooler offered by mishimoto would still do this? Let the oil get to temp, then start cooling it?

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So the thermostatic oil cooler offered by mishimoto would still do this? Let the oil get to temp, then start cooling it?

 

Yes it should. The thermostatic valve will bypass the cooler until the oil is warm enough to open the thermostat then the cooler will cool the oil.

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AMileHighLGT is correct, the thermostatic oil sandwich plate stays closed until the oil warms up, then opens.

 

If you have a street car in a cold climate this would be important.

 

If you have a race or dedicated track 3 season car it's just one more thing that can fail and cause problems. Mine is the non-thermostatic.

 

The funky Subaru oil cooler/heater is very useful for dropping the sandwich plate low enough to get it to work with the hoses. So leave it all connected, put the sandwich plate on the bottom of the OEM cooler, then spin on the filter. It does hang down a ways though and is vulnerable if you become a rally car, like I did!

 

Mishimoto makes some WRX-STI specific setups. You can look at them here, scroll down to the Subaru and Universal sections:

http://www.mishimoto.com/mishimoto-transmission-coolers-oil-coolers.html#1

 

I downloaded the WRX-STI 06-07 Installation instructions here: http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-62631657248580/MMOC-WRX-06-INSTALLGUIDE.pdf

It looks like it would probably work fine on a LGT without a FMIC. The bracket uses one of the hood latch bolts. If you have an FMIC you will need the universal kit with possibly longer hoses depending on where you to mount.

 

I can get these at a very good price but you will have to PM me if you want to buy one. For example I can get the 06-07 WRX-STI system in both Silver or Black, with or without the thermostat, for a lot less than the MSRP you see on the Mishimoto website. That's true for all Mishimoto products, not just the oil coolers.

 

No guarantees on fitment since I've never installed this exact setup.

Nothing like a race track to find the weak points in man and machine.

"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"

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