Chris GTO TT Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Easier on the knees, too! That's why my garage has old carpet in it. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Easier on the knees, too! Cuz we know that you are on your knees a lot. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 I wouldn't worry about 8:2 or 8:4 or 8:6, it's not that big a difference. Just make sure the decks are flat and clean, stock HG and ARP studs. You'll be getting the car tuned after 500 miles or so...right ? Did you read my thread, se click here link in sig. Do it right the first time. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Car is e tuned right now with Dave at Cryotune stage 1 with stage three fueling. Going to talk to him about a break in map once I get closer or if it's needed at all. I'm also going to send the injectors in for a douche and inspect. The other thing I have been pondering is changing the fuel pump. More of a proactive maintenance action other than performance upgrade. But If I get the latter I'm all good with that. For sure I have ready your post a couple of times. Will probably be referring back to it a few more times before rebuilding. Thanks Max. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 The fuel pump is agood idea before the tune. I would not replace it till after you know the engine runs well. I'm one for not changing to many things at one time. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 Agreed not to do it before. I'm thinking out loud here this could one of the precursor symptoms of HG failure. Curious to see if me little hiccups (hesitation under load at 2250 thru 2800 rpm) felt go away after the rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 11, 2014 Share Posted August 11, 2014 Agreed not to do it before. I'm thinking out loud here this could one of the precursor symptoms of HG failure. Curious to see if me little hiccups (hesitation under load at 2250 thru 2800 rpm) felt go away after the rebuild. Only if you replace the OCVs, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 11, 2014 Author Share Posted August 11, 2014 I did recently replace my OCV but not sure how that relates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 Looking at Samco hose purchase. Crazy to me we have to import them from the UK... But ok. I'm looking at the ARP bolts rod bolts. The description of press in makes me wonder if these would work for stock connecting rods. Placed it in the tear down spot in the driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 Looking at Samco hose purchase. Crazy to me we have to import them from the UK... But ok. I'm looking at the ARP bolts rod bolts. The description of press in makes me wonder if these would work for stock connecting rods. Placed it in the tear down spot in the driveway. For stock rods, there's no point. ARP head bolts, on the other hand (260-4701, $185 @ Amazon) are good insurance, and make installing heads easier. No back and forth rigamarole. Call mSprank and see if he's still got the Venair hoses in stock. Good quality stuff at a decent price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 13, 2014 Author Share Posted August 13, 2014 I have the intake hose from Mike. Possible mini group buy in the works for the Samco stuff with BarmanB. Well see how that pans out. In the middle of a hooo haaa with work right now and one of the equipment vendors... I'll drop the bolts from the list if they make no sense. I do need to talk to Mike about the full motor gasket kit he has on sale anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 13, 2014 Share Posted August 13, 2014 I have the intake hose from Mike. Possible mini group buy in the works for the Samco stuff with BarmanB. Well see how that pans out. In the middle of a hooo haaa with work right now and one of the equipment vendors... I'll drop the bolts from the list if they make no sense. I do need to talk to Mike about the full motor gasket kit he has on sale anyway. If he's anything like the other Mike, make sure he knows there's a chance he'll be sitting on 5-figures' worth of silicone hosing and getting, well, hosed on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 :O Not nice to Mike! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 14, 2014 Author Share Posted August 14, 2014 Lift pivot I had to order from Harbor Freight will be here Thursday. Hope they don't need a signature and if so the boy is here. I'm going to start tearing down Saturday afternoon. Have missed now two band rehearsals need to make Saturdays session. Sunday will be a full day of fun. I'm gonna be a wreck Monday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Well F1 left an hour or so ago and we had the motor out by 2pm ish. Didn't take as long as I had suspected. We were a little hung up for a moment on with the torque converter pulling out with the motor but worked it out regardless. Challenges were the CV needed to be backed out of the diff to get a good bite on two of the nuts and the torque converter hassle. Just a little interweb to find the procedure for bolt removal on the flex plate. Thanks again to F1 for driving up and giving me a hand! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Yeah, you have to rotate the flexplate using the 22mm socket on the crank bolt. Good thing there's only four of 'em! Did you bag and label parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 If it could go back where it was I left it there. I'll be bagging more stuff with the motor dis assembly than with the rest of it. I've een all these parts out before except for splitting the block so not much of a mystery there. Need to replace a couple rounded off boogers. Getting the flex plat off was one thing but having the torque converter follow the motor was not good. I'll be reading up on that part a little more now. :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 If it could go back where it was I left it there. I'll be bagging more stuff with the motor dis assembly than with the rest of it. I've een all these parts out before except for splitting the block so not much of a mystery there. Need to replace a couple rounded off boogers. Getting the flex plat off was one thing but having the torque converter follow the motor was not good. I'll be reading up on that part a little more now. :/ It's not a big deal, really. Put it back in and rotate it back and forth until it pops back into place; once it does, it's fine . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Good times! As Kzr750 mentioned, everything went smooth besides the little hang up on the torq converter, but that only gave us a 15 min headache. All and all, we had it out and on the stand in 3 hrs. Here's a few pics. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Thanks for taking those pictures. I didn't have any of them on the lift and such. I'm going to modify that lift a little for next time to give a couple inches from the bumper. Now that all the parts are in the back of the car I can flank the stand between two tables and begin tear down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Nice job guys. Bummed I missed the action but this weekend was hectic with the wife's birthday AND fixing her BMW. Let me know when you need anymore help for the reinstall or otherwise. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 Are you thinking about drilling another hole on the slide arm of the lift to extend it another 3 - 4 inches? I'm sure that would work. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 I will have Questions! In all I was pleased it was out before 5. Would not have happened that quick unless F1 showed up. Been emailing back and forth with Tim at RCM... He's saying go big and use 12 to 14mm studs for these heads. Will probably not but food for thought. Cost of machining to use them may be cost prohibitive. Well see after tear down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted August 18, 2014 Author Share Posted August 18, 2014 Are you thinking about drilling another hole on the slide arm of the lift to extend it another 3 - 4 inches? I'm sure that would work. Yeah. Put the Bridgeport to work and bust another hole in there. How far probably no more than 2.5". Just a little more clearance Clarence. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted August 18, 2014 Share Posted August 18, 2014 I will have Questions! In all I was pleased it was out before 5. Would not have happened that quick unless F1 showed up. Been emailing back and forth with Tim at RCM... He's saying go big and use 12 to 14mm studs for these heads. Will probably not but food for thought. Cost of machining to use them may be cost prohibitive. Well see after tear down. ARP 260-4701 are the correct head studs. For $185, that's the best you're gonna get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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