Extreme Turbo Systems: Exhaust Manifold W/ External Wastegate

[Zee199969]

I may use a few washers to lower it a MM or so or one big heavy hammer, but I don't think that would even make a dent.

 

You could hit that spot with a heatgun prior to big hammer. It'll soften it up enough to make it malleable

[jojorios]

Would that work on the 3/16 thick one?

[Zee199969]

It worked on my 1/8" one. I don't see why it wouldn't work on your 3/16" plate. You'd just have to heat both sides of the area you wanna hammer out a little longer than what I did.

[ebo03]

I have a couple washers on it to clear the midpipe of my AVO turboback. It was banging on the rear driver side corner prior to adding washers.

 

I never noticed the header had clearance issues before adding the washers.

 

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[jojorios]

I added 2 washers and it gave it enough clearance. After taking the skid plate off, I can clearly see there is a bend on the one side which is the side that is barely touching it. I'll bang it back to normal at some point this summer.

 

On another side note, I am boosting to 19.5 psi when it should be hitting only 18psi. Tuner made some adjustments but it didn't seem to help. It currently has the 1bar springs. He's going to change to lower pressure springs.

[GTEASER]

So the idea with the lower pressure WG springs is to try to start boost control at a lower psi so that it doesn't get out of control?

[jojorios]

I have no idea. He gave me a brief explanation behind it, but it was way past my understanding of how all this works. Maybe another member/tuner might be able to shed some light on the idea.

[jojorios]

Got the springs changed today and retuned. I am no longer hitting past 18 psi. It seems I am making more power than I was before with less boost. Not sure of the wizardry used to make that happen. But the sound of the waste gates and when they start has changed and not for the better. They seem to open up earlier and instead of the quick get out of my way fluttering sound, it's is much slower now. Lost it's badass factor. It's almost embarrassing. I guess it just has to grow on me.

[jojorios]

Went back to the shop today to try to get this horrible sound ironed out. Tuner went for a ride and he says that's the sound is normal with the weaker spring (6psi) and that it's just the nature of EWG. He said we could try a different spring but of course that would be, another 2hrs labor to change the spring + dyno time. The labor also seems a bit ridiculous after watching a few youtube videos. It looks like changing the springs should take like 10 mins each max.

 

Went from sounding like this:

 

To (you can hear the nasty sound as I get off the throttle):

 

I'm really bothered by the fact that before the lighter spring went on, I specifically asked about if the wastegates would open earlier and if the sound would change in anyway. Which I was told no, it would just give him more boost control and apparently none of that is the case.

 

So now my options are:

1) Deal with the crap sound until next round of mods

2) Put the 1 bar spring back and deal with the 19-20psi

3) Go with my original plan and put the 1 bar spring back on and get an etune from someone experienced with 5th gen and hope for better results.

4) Give up. Part everything and get a 2.5i.

 

He had mentioned how he doesn't like EWG on street cars and that there is no need for it as the stock turbos don't cause boost creep. I tried to explain to him all the issues others have found but he was very adamant about stock turbos not causing issues. This is why I may be leaning to #3 cause a little research on their part might of changed the point of view a bit.

 

For those running or who ran the ETS headers with the stock turbo, what PSI where you running and which spring? And did you ever have overboosting issues?

[BBPeik]

Sorry if this is a question that has been asked. Do you have head studs? If so you should be fine at 19-20 PSI as long as you have no creep.

[jojorios]

Sorry if this is a question that has been asked. Do you have head studs? If so you should be fine at 19-20 PSI as long as you have no creep.

 

The block is still pure stock. That's why I was wanted to keep the psi at 18 max. I would of been ok with boosting to 19 psi. But i was seeing 20 and 21.8 on one occasion. It's crazy cause I bought this thing so that boost control would never be an issue again. And here I am again.

[GTEASER]

Plumb the EWG's back into the intermediate pipe. Or give up and sell me the header.

[jojorios]

I had thought about plumbing it, but that does not look like an easy and probably expensive task.

[fahr_side]

I'd have gone with the 1bar spring. There really isn't any good reason you should be running up at 20psi with an EWG. You are going to have that raspy sound with an open dump and the stock ECU, but at least with the harder spring it will be opening a bit less easily.

There isn't any need to run the car on the dyno again to tweak boost control to suit the different spring btw. Actually, since the dyno loads the car differently from real use, it's more accurate to finish off boost control on the road.

 

There is a solution to the raspy noise btw. If you use a signal inverter you can hook the EWG up in push-pull mode which at least makes for a smooth noise vs. the 14hz rasp you have. Of course you'll have to tweak the boost control tables again to suit this.

[jojorios]

I'd have gone with the 1bar spring. There really isn't any good reason you should be running up at 20psi with an EWG. You are going to have that raspy sound with an open dump and the stock ECU, but at least with the harder spring it will be opening a bit less easily.

There isn't any need to run the car on the dyno again to tweak boost control to suit the different spring btw. Actually, since the dyno loads the car differently from real use, it's more accurate to finish off boost control on the road.

 

There is a solution to the raspy noise btw. If you use a signal inverter you can hook the EWG up in push-pull mode which at least makes for a smooth noise vs. the 14hz rasp you have. Of course you'll have to tweak the boost control tables again to suit this.

 

So you have heard that weird sound/rasp when I let off the gas on other EWG's? I could of sworn it was metal shaking when I first heard it. I pulled off the skid plate thinking it was that rattling or hitting the header.

 

I really wasn't sure why keeping boost under control was a problem with the spring set at 14psi. Maybe since there's 2? And I didn't mind the sound at all because it didn't have that weird sound. Just the "wastegate flutter". It came on when I really got on it, and kept quiet with normal driving. I also don't understand why they went with a 6psi spring instead of something just slightly less than 14 like 12 or 11.

 

At this point I am not sure if I will be returning to the shop anytime soon as I feel like a lot of the quotes I got for things were a bit high. Just to change the springs it would be about $250.

 

Highly considering retuning with an etune. So where do I send my payment? /hint /hint

[fahr_side]

The BCS operates on a pulse width modulated signal at 14hz, so there is fluttering that is audible, especially at low duty cycle.

 

One or two gates will make a difference as with that much valve area WGDC will be very low on a hard spring. Same if you fit say, a 50mm valve when 38mm was sufficient. The bigger valve needs to open less to maintain the same boost pressure so WGDC is lower.

 

And yes, most of the twin and triple-spring gates can be set usually to 2psi increments.

 

PM me if you are Opensource.