Blugin Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Hey guys, Background: I just bought an '05 LGT about 2 months ago. The car currently has 100K miles. I've had a few problems with it but nothing major until now. As far as the engine goes, it was mostly stock but had an old Accessport at Stage 1, an AVO throttle body hose and a K&N drop in. The previous owner told me he has the injectors replaced at 70K miles and replaced the turbo at 40K, removed the banjo bolt screens and did a timing belt at 70K but no water pump for some reason. It was flashed to stock when I bought it and I got the AccessPort with the car. I bought it and as soon as I drove it away I got a CEL and a bad stumble. I figured it was a boost leak, which it was. Did a boost leak test and the stock IC was popped. Got a replacement one on here and then that one popped shortly after (as determined by a boost leak test). Current: So with the intercoolers popping, I got fed up and bought one of the Perrin knock off TMICs (Torque Solution). I didn't want to go with an FMIC because I really want to keep it mostly stock. Well, I had major trouble installing the new TMIC as others have stated on here and I already knew I would. Found that the AVO throttle body hose was the wrong shape so got a stock throttle body hose from the dealer. I finally wrestled the dang thing in place and was so happy after hours of trouble getting it installed... I ended up having to hammer the thing in place which might not have been the best idea, but whatever. I was frustrated. The Issue: Everything was put in place, I unplugged the battery for a couple minutes to clear the CEL which I assumed was the same CEL I was getting from the boost leak (I double checked the turbo and the intercooler for debris when I installed it as well). So when I fired the car up, the CEL came on instantly which I thought was odd. The car then idled normally for about 5 seconds and then started making a knocking noise that was RPM dependant. Obviously I was shocked as I only had a boost leak before. I let it idle for a bit and listened to the motor with my stethoscope. It sounded like the knock was coming from the bottom end around cylinder 2. I revved it a little just to see if the noise changed and it didn't. It was a steady knocking sound. I immediately shut down the car. I then checked the oil and it was low but not drastically low, just about a quart. I have an oil pressure gauge and it was showing around 8 bar at idle on cold start with the knocking. So now: I've called around and it's sounding pretty expensive. Theories range from a broken timing belt tensioner to a bad turbo to a completely destroyed motor. I know I need to run some more tests, pull the current CEL and check the oil filter for debris but I work a bunch and haven't had time. There was no knocking before the intercooler install and the car ran fine except the constant boost leaks... So now I'm kind of going blind looking at dollar signs fly out the window. I've gotten a few quotes ranging from $3500 to $6500. The entire car only cost $8500 so I'm feeling a bit bummed. I just want a reliable stage 1 or 2 daily driver! Geez. This is my 6th Subaru and I've has some pretty modded ones in the past but I was hoping to keep this one low key just to drive around. It just sucks because I haven't even gotten to enjoy the car with it running with no boost leaks since I've owned it... I guess I'm asking for opinions and slightly just ranting here lol. Anyone have any thoughts? Am I crazy? Should I just roll it off a cliff and get something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Being an entire quart low on oil is actually pretty low for these engines. It's going to be hard for anyone on here to diagnose internal mechanical failure without more info. First thing I'd do is change the oil. Put the old oil in a clean pan and see if there's any metal in it. I'd also remove the oil pan. You can also get the oil tested by blackstone labs if you are unsure. I would do this anyway so you know the health of the motor. Shortblock failure is not uncommon with these cars. Mine and many others have needed to replace them. A new one runs about $1700 from Subaru. Ringland failure and broken oil pick up tubes are usually the problem. When my pick up tube failed my car stated to knock. With 8 bar of pressure that should not be an issue though. A compression check should be on the to-do list as well. It's possible the ring land failed and got into the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Get us the CEL code. Pull the DP and check for shaft play on the turbo. Check timing by hand, pull the side covers and see how things line up. http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ The GT's start around page 1640 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 12, 2014 Author Share Posted April 12, 2014 Well, I pulled the CEL and it was just the leftover P0171 from the boost leak. Haven't had time to do the other stuff yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 20, 2014 Author Share Posted April 20, 2014 Update: So the car was towed to the shop and it was a rod knock. Motor is out. More details to come... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 Update: Found out the reason for my woes. The previous owner had the engine rebuilt and didn't disclose it when I asked at the initial sale. The shop that I'm using said that it looks like it was a recent rebuild as the intake ports were clean and this car has 100K miles on it. (Edit: THIS IS INCORRECT- updated in a later post) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 704 block casting and nitrided crank tells us it's not the original shortblock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 EDIT! This was incorrect information. Please see this post: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4821966&postcount=26 vvv INCORRECT INFORMATION vvv And here's the culprit. A piece of piston found in the motor that was not a piece of any piston in the engine. The previous builder apparently left it in there..... :mad::mad: Pretty mad right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 There was no signs of detonation or any deforming of the rods or anything like that. Just a really crappy rebuild which caused another engine failure. So now I'm out about 5 grand. I wouldn't have bought this car if it had been disclosed to me that it had a rebuilt engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted April 29, 2014 Moderators Share Posted April 29, 2014 Wow. Really sorry for this situation, OP. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 No way, who the hack would leave that in the engine...can you find out who rebuilt it? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 Yeah, it's pretty sh*tty... No idea who did the rebuild. I didn't even have any idea the motor was rebuilt in the first place until the shop I'm using showed me and I saw it with my own eyes. Needless to say, I was pretty shocked. Yeah, when I went up there they said they found a piece of piston in there but my pistons looked fine at least on the tops. At that time, they hadn't torn down the block, but when they did, they found that my pistons were in tact. Luckily, I caught the knock without actually driving it so the damage was as minimal as it could be. AVCS cam gears were clean and everything so it appears that the metal bits didn't circulate too much. Not really sure of my recourse at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Sorry this happened. If you have the funds, and new ej257 is $1645. get the gasket set for your year car. look at my click here link. You may want to replace the oil cooler too. Not sure how many metal pieces are still left in the oil system, just waiting to come out. The heads should be rebuilt too. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 Was also told that the clutch was fairly new when I bought the car but as I suspected after having the car a bit, it was completely fried. I inspected the disc when it was out and it was ruined. So had to order a new clutch on top of everything else. Was also told it was a single mass flywheel conversion and it was a dual mass. Currently the motor is being put back together today. Clutch will be put in on Friday when it arrives and hopefully I'll get it back this weekend or Monday. So here's the build sheet: cross drilled hardened forged STI crank king race bearings sti rings 11mm sti oil pump sti head gaskets engine gasket set fluids and a/c recharge clean vat and rebuild engine gates racing timing belt kit with waterpump all idlers, tensioner Whoever rebuilt it left a bunch of cracked PVC hoses with worm clamps in there too so those will be replaced with factory stuff. Other stuff: OEM clutch disc and pressure plate TSK3 TOB kit catless flex up and downpipes, heat wrapped torque solution TMIC tune Hopefully it'll be strong and reliable! The builder does give a year warranty which is great too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted April 29, 2014 Author Share Posted April 29, 2014 We talked about the oil cooler and I believe that's being replaced or something. I'll have to check. I can't recall if the heads are being rebuilt. I think they were in perfect shape. I talked to the guy building the motor and he said he'd rebuild them if he had to after inspecting. They're definitely being vatted and stuff. He did mention that he'd disassemble the AVCS cam gears and inspect and if I needed new ones because of the metal particles they'd replace them. When I last spoke to them, they said the cam gears were fine. There wasn't a ton of metal in there since I caught it fast. I almost couldn't see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 IMO you'll want to pull the cams and the heads apart and clean them. Metal has been known to hide everywhere you can't see it and come out later. Everything should be taken apart and cleaned, If he's a good machine shop he'll know what to do. When you get the rebuilt engine back in the car, make sure the coolant system is full burp it, start it, let it warm up and change the oil and filter. In my link I talk about the gasket kit and what's missing from it. Do this right, and it will run great for a long time. Get the car tuned after 500 miles. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12sechatch Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Wow! This is crazy. Good luck with everything. Not much, but at least find solace in the fact that you'll know the exact condition of stuff when you're done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Update: The motor was being finished in the clean room yesterday when I went by and I asked a few questions based on Max Capacity's comments. The heads were completely rebuilt for safety. Valve lash adjusted and everything cleaned and reassembled. They also did go ahead and replace the AVCS cam gears as a precaution. The factory oil cooler was removed and the holes plugged. They always remove those things when they have the opportunity. They are installing the new engine today along with my stage 2 parts (catless up/down and TMIC) and my new clutch and they are going to start it, seat the rings and change the oil. They will then do a basic tune to compensate for my stage 2 parts, install my suspension and I will hopefully receive the car Saturday or Monday. Total bill is looking like $4200 which is a bit better than I expected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Update 2: I actually was able to talk to the previous owner and he was very helpful and forthcoming. I'm thinking the preliminary thought of the piston piece may be inaccurate and based on our assumptions before we had the engine pulled apart. I was talking to two different people at the shop about it so it's possible they got confused. Who knows. All I know is rod knock... The PO had a new shortblock and heads installed by the dealer at 51,740 miles. He had the shortblock and heads replaced to the tune of 10K! So I'm feeling a bit lucky to get away under 5K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian3676 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Why do they remove the oil cooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Why do they remove the oil cooler? This ^^^^ Why ? Make sure they remove the banjo filters if its not to late. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Banjo filters have been previously removed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 Why do they remove the oil cooler? The oil coolers are garbage on these cars and the later models didn't even have them. Apparently they don't really do much and they just collect and recirculate metal shavings into the engine and then you have to get your motor replaced, like me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 I thought that was going to be the answer. As long as you agree. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blugin Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Just wanted to dig this thread back up and update it. Car is being picked up today! They ended up putting a new slave cylinder in as well. It should be pretty much like new when I get it back (hopefully). Haven't driven this car in over a month so I'm looking forward to having it on the road! The only thing left to break would be the transmission. Hoping that it lasts me for a long time. I've read that the 5mt LGT trannies are pretty strong but just keeping my fingers crossed. I'll post some new pics and a report when I get it back and cleaned up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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