covertrussian Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 (edited) This is the #1 reason Subaru turbos die often, second reason is Uppipe cat that breaks up over time. For some reason Subaru thought it was a great idea to put a fine mesh filter into the turbo and AVCS oil feed lines. AVCS Filters AVCS filters are the easiest to get to and check. Some Subaru's will have the mesh filters right before the AVCS, these have a tendency of getting stuck in the AVCS mechanism. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253914&stc=1&d=1502332136 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253917&stc=1&d=1502332136 05 LGT bolt didn't seem to have the filter, but my 04 FXT definitely had them and they poped out of the banjo bolts. Dig around in the AVCS oil hole to make sure the filter is not in there, on my FXT, both filters fell out of the banjo bolt and was inside (hard to spot since they are black like the oil). http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253915&stc=1&d=1502332136 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253916&stc=1&d=1502332136 Turbo Feed/AVCS Feed This one is the most important one, if this one is clogged it restricts oil flow to the turbo which causes to starve and fail. Most shops will replace the turbo afterwards without fixing the root cause, clogged turbo feed banjo bolt. Because of this most replacement turbos will fail within the next 10k miles. Remove the bracket that bolts to the up pipe and to the block. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253918&stc=1&d=1502332136 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253919&stc=1&d=1502332136 Then you can see the oil feed banjo, use a 17mm ratcheting wrench to make your life easier. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253921&stc=1&d=1502332136 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=259017&stc=1&d=1511964587 Filter is still in... pull it out and install the bolt without it. The hard lines have a built in restrictor for the turbo. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253922&stc=1&d=1502332136 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253923&stc=1&d=1502332136 This filter is definitely clogged, this caused my car's turbo to go out, sadly the previous owner didn't pull it out, thus the replacement turbo might be in a bad shape too. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253924&stc=1&d=1502332213 Driver Side Head AVCS Feed This one requires the most work to remove, it's best to do it while you are replacing the timing belt and the cam seals. Here is a pic of how close the Banjo bolt is to the timing cover, there is simply not enough room to remove it on car without damaging the timing cover. If you grind the hump off, you will have more room to get the banjo out. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253925&stc=1&d=1502332213 This plastic cover is in the way and can only be removed with the cam gears removed. You will need to loosen the dip stick tube to get the plastic cover out. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253926&stc=1&d=1502332213 Finally easy access to the bolt http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253927&stc=1&d=1502332213 As expected the filter was in place still http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253928&stc=1&d=1502332213 And very dirty, if this was on the turbo feed/avcs line the turbo would be dead due to oil starvation. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253929&stc=1&d=1502332213 I removed the whole hard line, notice that the bolt that goes into the AVCS side itself doesn't have a hump. That hump makes it impossible to remove this banjo bolt with the timing cover on. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253930&stc=1&d=1502332213 I'm going to put the humpless bolt on the head, I also shaved one side of the banjo bolt so that I could squeeze it past the timing cover if I ever have to deal with it again. Do yourself a favor and use new seals on the head it self, you can try to reuse the old seals on the AVCS end, they are easy to replace if they leak. http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253931&stc=1&d=1502332213 All done and happy! http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253932&stc=1&d=1502332213 http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=253933&stc=1&d=1502332213 Edited November 29, 2017 by covertrussian 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HAMMER DOWN Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Nice, the thread & posts below could of save you some time. I came up with away to remove DS AVCS filter bolt, without removing any of TB system. Because people was having a hard time removing the alien head bolts holding the cam gears. In this thread; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-61689.html Also as location of all LGT filter bolt, here. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3382336&postcount=731 How I did mine; http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1326330&postcount=158 Mike Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Also I think there are two types of timing belt covers. First picture below is from a friend's 05 LGT (I think later model production). http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/General/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0760.jpg?m=1395409076 This pic is from my 05 LGT that was built in 08/2004. Even with me swapping to a nipple-less bolt I have a lot less space. http://images.rvsmods.com/var/albums/Cars/LGT/Engine/General/Banjo-Filters/CIMG0777.jpg?m=1395547448 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbohip Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 ^^^Mine was made in June '04 and here's a pic of the same area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 spring maint coming, might have to do this. its been 9 years and 140+k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPeC.B_MaZTer Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 Does the 2008 model year LGT and Spec.B have these filters in these places as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Does the 2008 model year LGT and Spec.B have these filters in these places as well? 07+ have the turbo oil feed banjo under the intake manifold and turbo inlet, much harder to get to. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPeC.B_MaZTer Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 I have read that the 08+ do NOT have the filter, is this a fact? is their a link to a thread on these model years? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 They do have the filters the passenger side one is up top. IMO the top location tends not to keep particals in the filter, IMO as the oil pressure falls to zero when you turn the engine off the crap falls out of the filter...? Does that make sence ? I should check my 09 to see if theres a bump on the fitting behind the TB cover. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shiby Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 This is probably a stupid question, but I have not done this on my car personally yet so I don't know if filter is still there, but the general consensus is to remove the filter and just have bolt because dirty oil > no oil, correct? Is there a downside to having the filter removed? Less oil pressure, etc? Anything I should be worried about for not having it in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted May 19, 2014 Author Share Posted May 19, 2014 Yes dirty oil is always better then no oil. Change your oil and filter often and you should NEVER have that dirty of oil. Oil pressure would actually increase to the turbo, due to less restriction, especially with thicker oils. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPeC.B_MaZTer Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 I am finally getting around to removing these filters. Last week I decided to install the Samco hoses I ordered a while back and I noticed the stock turbo inlet was dry-rotted and cracked so I ordered a new Perrin inlet. Well I started my venture today and realized I'd be better off removing the intake manifold, which lead me to remember about these filters. I got most of the prep work done and hardware removed until I hit my first obstacle. How do I remove the intake manifold with the fuel lines and pressure regulator (driver side) still attached since they route across the manifold's base? I am either not seeing where they are bolted and attached somewhere(flashlight in mouth) OR I will seriously have to remove each Phillips screw-head clamp and rubber fuel hose. I highly doubted this and it was getting darker; I also had to leave for my mothers birthday dinner. Tomorrow I will again attempt to remove the intake manifold, the filters, and install the turbo inlet. *I pulled the intercooler and downpipe for access and now my stock VF46 is begging me to sell him and buy a BNR 18G and new infamous oil line.... any input is much appreciated and seriously would now be a good time to install a turbo? can the 18G run okay/tune on stock Spec.B injectors? I have the rest of the supporting mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spooph Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 @rao, would it be possible to add the "how-to" part of the driver's side bolt to this sticky please? http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2-5gt-turbo-oil-supply-banjo-bolt-filter-removal-62371.html?t=62371 Luckily SPeC.B_MaZTer bumped it to make it easy for me to find, but it would be much more convenient if it was in the sticky. Thanks, and just a suggestion from a newbie... EDIT: In addition to any other pics we need, since I'll be doing this, I can get whatever pics might be needed to fill in the gaps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 3, 2015 Share Posted May 3, 2015 I am finally getting around to removing these filters. Last week I decided to install the Samco hoses I ordered a while back and I noticed the stock turbo inlet was dry-rotted and cracked so I ordered a new Perrin inlet. Well I started my venture today and realized I'd be better off removing the intake manifold, which lead me to remember about these filters. I got most of the prep work done and hardware removed until I hit my first obstacle. How do I remove the intake manifold with the fuel lines and pressure regulator (driver side) still attached since they route across the manifold's base? I am either not seeing where they are bolted and attached somewhere(flashlight in mouth) OR I will seriously have to remove each Phillips screw-head clamp and rubber fuel hose. I highly doubted this and it was getting darker; I also had to leave for my mothers birthday dinner. Tomorrow I will again attempt to remove the intake manifold, the filters, and install the turbo inlet. *I pulled the intercooler and downpipe for access and now my stock VF46 is begging me to sell him and buy a BNR 18G and new infamous oil line.... any input is much appreciated and seriously would now be a good time to install a turbo? can the 18G run okay/tune on stock Spec.B injectors? I have the rest of the supporting mods. I guess you got through this, but it's much easier to lift the intake by removing it at the TGV's to heads and the fuel lines from the shock tower. Just get new gaskets. Also tighten the gas line clamps under the manifold. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shogun506 Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 So this might be a stupid question but I'm assuming you need to drain your oil before you start or do this during an oil change, is that right? Would a dealer have any objections to doing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 No need to drain the oil, if the car is cold it drains down to the oil pan. Never hurts to change the oil though, so remove the filters, drive a few miles, change oil . 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enlight Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Fairly upset that I saw this thread just after changing my timing belt. Bessie II Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 I can't get the turbo side banjo bolt off! Arg! My 17mm was too long, so I bought a shorty. That fits, but now I can't get any leverage on it. PB Blastered it too. Any more hints? pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 17, 2015 Share Posted May 17, 2015 Got it, went behind that wrapped pipe with an articulating ratchet. pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Ratcheting wrenches go a long way with this job, makes life much easier 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rebourne Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 Yeah, I used an articulating, ratcheting 17mm. This one from Lowe's http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3387660 pic thread build thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 So how are you guys getting the crush washer on the inside of the turbo bolt? That is my hang up. Are you guys just going with one crush washer? It didnt look like one even came off of the inside. 05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Very carefully, it's a pain not to drop it. Now that I have SS flexible lines it's actually much easier to replace the copper washer. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparkey Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Very carefully, it's a pain not to drop it. Now that I have SS flexible lines it's actually much easier to replace the copper washer. Very careful is an understatement... I had mentioned something about getting new lines in a thread and was told not worth it... im assuming they never did this If I werent Elbow deep in it already and needed the car ready to go in 3 days - I may have went that way. But in the "What did you do today" thread someone suggested fishing line - I had safety wire. Brilliant! Took maybe 5 min after 4 hours of trying everything else. This is what I used... http://i65.tinypic.com/14vmx4x.jpg I made sure I had a perfect view of it, and had the bolt with one washer already on it and in the oil line. Then I dropped it down, pushed the bolt into it, started threading it and then pulled on the wire and it pulled out while the bolt and washer fell right into place. 05' LGT, ZFD Built 5MT, Stage 2 Cryotune 91/E85, 170,000mi running BRotella T6 and Ecoguard S4615 filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 New lines are not worth it unless yours is leaking or your going bigger turbo, I went with bigger turbo so cut mine to pieces. I just remembered how I did it before, I would sandwich the copper washer between head and oil line, align it, then keep pressure on the oil line and insert the banjo. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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