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After looking closer i think the pulley is ever so slightly warped. The pulley is not wobbling up and down on the shaft it's wobbling back and forth. There is no play on the wheel and no noise. Do you think that I should be concerned? I can swap them back out but I don't think it will be a problem cause I don't think it's affecting balance any.
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Ill shoot a video of mine tomorrow evening so you can compare.

 

Like nstg8r, I dont recall any play, wobble or warping.

 

Did you end up using the stock or provided crank bolt?

What about the bolt head cover washer? And when torquing the bolt cover back on did you do the standard x torque pattern?

 

Stock or replacement serpentine/accessory belt?

 

When I looked at ItalianLegacys setup last month I also didnt see any wobble when the sc beast idled or revved.

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Ill shoot a video of mine tomorrow evening so you can compare.

 

Like nstg8r, I dont recall any play, wobble or warping.

 

Did you end up using the stock or provided crank bolt?

What about the bolt head cover washer? And when torquing the bolt cover back on did you do the standard x torque pattern?

 

Stock or replacement serpentine/accessory belt?

 

When I looked at ItalianLegacys setup last month I also didnt see any wobble when the sc beast idled or revved.

 

What do you mean standard x torque pattern? I used the stock belt. Ill try to take it off this week to look closer at the pulley, it might be warped.

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What do you mean standard x torque pattern? I used the stock belt. Ill try to take it off this week to look closer at the pulley, it might be warped.

Oh x pattern, yea I did that, I found that the washer was sticking out on one side and that caused the cap problems. It looks better now that I fixed that but the pulley still has a small wobble like it's warped. I used the new crank bolt and washer. I need to take a new video from the side to show you but it's hard to see, like I said I'm a worry wort but with the Crank shaft bearing issues I don't want to risk it. I don't want to have to replace bearings in 10000 miles.

Edited by stevenc1703
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Sounds good. When you remove it to inspect for any warp/damage, consider re-installing it with the stock crank bolt. Just an idea.

 

nstg8r, ItalianLegacy and Fredrik used all new/provided parts

I re-used the stock crank bolt because I liked the bolt head better (its deeper with better defined grooves)

 

Grab a gatorback belt (I have the part # posted up somewhere) while you're at it too.

Its worth every $$$ and a good idea to swap out anyway if you're anywhere near 50K.

The gatorback is better at handling any offset between the pulleys, wobble, etc.

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Sounds good. When you remove it to inspect for any warp/damage, consider re-installing it with the stock crank bolt. Just an idea.

 

nstg8r, ItalianLegacy and Fredrik used all new/provided parts

I re-used the stock crank bolt because I liked the bolt head better (its deeper with better defined grooves)

 

Grab a gatorback belt (I have the part # posted up somewhere) while you're at it too.

Its worth every $$$ and a good idea to swap out anyway if you're anywhere near 50K.

The gatorback is better at handling any offset between the pulleys, wobble, etc.

So I took it off and found out that I didn't have the key lined up right. I feel so stupid, chock that up to inexperience. I put it back on the right way this time and it looks pretty straight. I can't see any wobble other than the center cap, there is just enough play in the cap before I tighten it down that I doubt I could ever get it perfect. Thanks for the help, ill have to get the gator belt sometime soon, I can have that swapped out in 10mins so that's not to bad.

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Grab a gatorback belt (I have the part # posted up somewhere) while you're at it too.

Its worth every $$$ and a good idea to swap out anyway if you're anywhere near 50K.

The gatorback is better at handling any offset between the pulleys, wobble, etc.

 

Do you have that part number? I'm having trouble finding it.

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So now that I've driven with the lwcp for a couple of days to make sure it's solid I decided to test her out. Currently I'm using a tune with 2 degrees less timing than the last pull because I was starting to get knock from the BG 44k in the tank in prep for race day, so consider these times are with less timing and dirty oil. Also I haven't done a frame by frame time on my computer just a stop watch with the video. 0-60 looks like 5secs so no change but 0-80 looks to be around 9secs, that's 1 second less than before. It's hard to tell but I think the shifting times have decreased with the pulley and 0-60 has probably decreased considering the loss in timing. Im almost through this tank of gas and will be doing the rest of the bg flush and changing oil soon, so timing will be increased back to where it was and more comparable results will be posted.

 

Percitus, if you get the chance post some 0-60 videos. I want to see some 0-60 times in the low 4s ;), I'm sure those headers are putting down impressive numbers. Also Italian legacy not that I can afford a super charger but let's see some of yours too.

Edited by stevenc1703
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If your 0-60 time is indeed a full 1.5 sec. better than stock, your 1/4 mile time should easily be in the low 13 sec. range. I hope the numbers add up, but I will say that I have noticed the our speedometers are not quite accurate. When I drive past those mobile signs that show your speed, I'm always going 3-5 mph slower than what my speedometer says I am. Edited by Rhett
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If your 0-60 time is indeed a full 1.5 sec. better than stock, your 1/4 mile time should easily be in the low 13 sec. range. I hope the numbers add up, but I will say that I have noticed the our speedometers are not quite accurate. When I drive past those mobile signs that show your speed, I'm always going 3-5 mph slower than what my speedometer says I am.

Have your changed your rims or tire size? That might throw you off a little.

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If your 0-60 time is indeed a full 1.5 sec. better than stock, your 1/4 mile time should easily be in the low 13 sec. range. I hope the numbers add up, but I will say that I have noticed the our speedometers are not quite accurate. When I drive past those mobile signs that show your speed, I'm always going 3-5 mph slower than what my speedometer says I am.

 

My 3.6R is stock, when I check my speed in the NAV menus it says that Im actually going about 3-4mph less than what my speedo says.

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