CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

[covertrussian]

So the air filter is that restrictive...?

 

All air filters provide some restriction, measured as pressure drop with a manometer. I'm not exactly sure how restrictive this filter is, since I'm too much of a wuss to do a WOT pull without the filter , but this whole intake and inlet setup is 4x less restrictive then my previous stock airbox and perrin inlet, even with a high flow K&N filter.

 

Anyway this filter is providing fairly minimal air restriction, especially when not at wide open throttle, yet the MAF still freaked out when that tiny restriction went away. That tells me that it's not restriction at play, but perhaps the air filter is changing the airflow through the MAF housing and making it more laminar.

[covertrussian]

Up next in my LED conversion is Tail Lights and Brake lights! These lights don't use all that much wattage, so it was mostly for cosmetic reasons, but wattage reduction was pretty decent.

 

Bulb List:

 

Rear Sidemarker / Stop Light: W21/5W (7443r) - AUTOGINE 7443/7440

High Mount (center) Brake Light: W21W (7440) - AUTOGINE 7443/7440

Rear Turn Signal: W21W (7440) - NOTE I didn't replace these, since I didn't want to deal with load resistors.

Backup Light: 921 - SiriusLED 921

 

Tail Light Installation:

Either the previous owner, or Subaru installed the tail lights with the wire going outside the body.

 

This made it impossible to unscrew the bulbs, thus a 5 minute bulb replacement turned into a 1hr ordeal. Pulled back the trunk liner to expose the tail light bolts

 

Now I found it easier to pop the headlights by pushing on the mostly unscrewed bolts:

 

Then with a tug they popped right out, removed all of the bulbs and put the wire back inside.

 

Reinstalled the tail light without the wire and reinstalled the bulbs:

 

Upper Brake Light Installation:

This one is simple yet tricky. Pry it up with a screw driver:

 

Now the previous owner really destroyed this whole assembly trying to take it apart, so I can't help you with good steps on taking it apart... The bulb is inside the housing, subaru didn't make it easy to remove it.

 

New LED installed, in my case the 7443r bulbs that I got are also compatible with 7440 housings. I bought a 4 pack so this turned out perfectly.

 

Reassembled it the best I could:

 

Here is what they look like installed, left tail light is all LED and right one is all stock:

 

Now the only reason I did the backup lights is, my Outback has tinted windows, you can barely see the light when backing up. Thus I wanted to find and test a bulb on the Legacy first. In the end I ended up LOVING THEM even on my non tinted windows!

 

Here are some night shots:

 

 

Tech Specs:

 

The backup light went from 1.8amp (~25.6W) to 0.6amp (~8.5W). This LED uses more power then most others, but that's fine since it seems to keep the Canbus happier (I'm gonna order a set for the '12 Outback soon).

 

The tail light sidemarker went from 0.5amp (~7.1w) to ~0.15amp (~2.1w). Brake Light went from 1.85amp (~26.3w) to 0.15 (~2.1W). Notice that my meter has a hard time with anything below .2, it will jump between .1 and .2, which I'm assuming to be .15amp.

 

Finally the high mount (center) brake light went from 1.8amp (~25.6w) to 0.3amp (~4.3w). I'm not sure why the same exact LED bulb used more for center light, I was just happy that 7443 bulb actually worked in 7440 housing!

 

Wattage Savings:

 

Constant Halogen Lights: 14.2w

Constant LED Lights: 4.2w

Constant Light Savings: 10w

 

Nothing to brag home about with the constantly on lights, but it gets better when you consider braking lights:

Braking Halogen Wattage: 78.2w

Braking LED Wattage: 8.8w

Braking Light Savings: 69.4w

 

Since in typical you wont be riding on the brakes all the time, you have to calculate the percentage or the amount of time that you are using the brakes. Going back to my 265minute city driving example, I counted/calculated 105 minutes of it was moving, which leaves me with 160 minutes of standing or slowing down and using the brakes.

 

This adds up to ~208.5 watts over the duration of the week with Halogen bulbs, while with LED's it adds up to ~22.7 watts. This adds up to a quite a substantial wattage saving (~185.8w) assuming my math is correct.

 

In the next post I'll be covering the tiny bulbs here and there.

Edited January 15, 2019 by covertrussian

[ssbtech]

I still can't believe those Hikari lights are rated at 'up to' 9600 lumens. HIDs max out at what, 3500 lumen? What are the new Acura LED lights rated at? Those nearly blind me temporarily. I wonder what sort of dimmer circuit could be used with them.

[covertrussian]

I still can't believe those Hikari lights are rated at 'up to' 9600 lumens. HIDs max out at what, 3500 lumen? What are the new Acura LED lights rated at? Those nearly blind me temporarily. I wonder what sort of dimmer circuit could be used with them.

 

Keep in mind that advertised lumens seem to be far from the real lumens. Bulbfacts checks the lumens of the LED's that they test, for this Hikari kit they said it's 4180 lm per kit.

 

Though the Alla Lighting kit does seem to be the brightest at 8000 lm.

 

I've been driving with these for weeks and they are amazing. It's so good that the Outback now feels too dim. I used to think Outback's stock setup was pretty darn good too.

[covertrussian]

For last couple weeks I've noticed my clutch pedal getting a bit "grainy" when depressing it. I kept on checking the clutch reservoir, but it wasn't loosing any fluid, but then I looked under the intercooler and saw some wetness on the line.

 

It looks like it's a leak in the rubber it self, not the connection, I had the wife press the clutch in but I couldn't see where it's leaking from. Car has almost 150k miles, but for about 12k miles I had the GoodRidge line, which failed pretty quickly, this is giving this line about 138k miles:

 

Since I've been removing the lines so much, the little line holder wasn't keeping it from spinning through, thus I had to sneak in a 17mm wrench.

 

Since I'm sick and tired of this bracket, and it was making it awkward to get to both the hard line and hold the rubber line, decided to remove it.

 

Now next, I did something blasphemous, I stole the SS clutch line from my Nissan Sentra and installed on the Legacy, and it fit perfectly!

 

Stock vs Sentra's SS line:

 

Now I'm not sure if it's my stiff pressure plate (Exedy Stage 1) that's killing the clutch lines, or simply bad design (GoodRidge) or age related (Stock line). This clutch line has been on the Sentra since mid to late 2000's, it hasn't ripped yet so I'm hoping it will last. If it doesn't I do have a spare new OEM WRX line too.

[Smithcraft]

Is that the OEM line from a Sentra?

 

SC

[covertrussian]

Is that the OEM line from a Sentra?

 

SC

 

Nah it's an aftermarket, unknown brand though (was on the car when I bought it).

 

Now in my Infiniti G20 (leather seat Sentra) I've been running a GSpec Sentra SS/Kevlar clutch line for 9 years (~40k miles) without an issue (it's had stiffer pressure plates all it's life). G-Spec owner is a cool guy, He's been servicing our SR20 community for a long time, bet he would get a kick out of Subaru guys buying parts from him .

 

Here is what the GSpec line looks like compared to stock G20 line:

 

Heck it's on sale right now for only $30, might just get it for the Legacy while I'm at it.

[rebourne]

Blasphemy! I love it!

[SBT]

I think you'll find the WRX line too short if my memory serves me correctly. I tried to install and 08+ AM one on my 05 LGTW and it was so much of a stretch that it compromised the banjo head-to-hose connections. Stock WRX may work better. But, YMMV.

[covertrussian]

I think you'll find the WRX line too short if my memory serves me correctly. I tried to install and 08+ AM one on my 05 LGTW and it was so much of a stretch that it compromised the banjo head-to-hose connections. Stock WRX may work better. But, YMMV.

 

The 06-07 WRX TR (push type clutch) line fit fine, I used GOO 24216-CLUCL, only reason I removed it is it started leaking after ~12k miles.

[Flinkly]

can confirm the dust covers don't fit over the hikari's on 08-09. gonna see about 3d printing an extension. bit of room till the airbox or washer fluid fill tube. lame that they won't install instantly though.

[covertrussian]

can confirm the dust covers don't fit over the hikari's on 08-09. gonna see about 3d printing an extension. bit of room till the airbox or washer fluid fill tube. lame that they won't install instantly though.

 

Man that sucks! How big are the dust covers for you guys? Also they do have universal covers, which I'm thinking about for our H3 Fog's, since it's so hard to find good usable LED's that fit.

[Flinkly]

too cold right now to check, but will try to remember to take one off this afternoon to measure, and measure the room i have for an extension. had about a quarter inch gap without the plug in, so maybe half inch or a little more for decent fan/air movement.

 

edit: or maybe an 05-07 would fit and be deeper...

 

could ask a coworker if i could borrow one for test fit. several 05-07 outbacks in the parking lot.

Edited January 30, 2019 by Flinkly

[covertrussian]

I can measure the cap depth too. My fan is defiantly touching the cap, but because Hikari bevels the cage out, it should still have enough air movement.

 

I've put about 17 hours on my set already, so far so good.

[covertrussian]

I've been lazy to upload these, I did this in October! My front driver side inner axle boot ripped and was flinging grease everywhere. Being time efficient (read: Lazy), I decided to replace it on the car, took less then an hour total.

 

I cut out the boot off, there is a snap/stop ring that prevents the inner joint from coming out any further. Once you remove it you should be able to get it further, but unbolting the strut bolts is still recommended for full range of articulation.

 

Unbolted the two strut bolts, before doing this make sure to make note of the cam bolt marks against the strut:

 

Which gave a much bigger range of motion, and allowed me to pop the axle out of socket, make sure to catch the roller and don't let them fall on the ground. This is after wiping it down:

 

Cleaned out inside the inner axle joint, don't want the two greases mixing (not recommended by boot manufacturers).

 

This is why Subaru axle boot replacement is a breeze, simply remove the snap ring and the roller joint will come right off:

 

New boot is on, I went with EMPI kit (EMPI 86-2483-D)

 

Axle rollers reinstalled, along with the snap/stop ring and re-greased:

 

Finally I decided to buy a $10 axle boot crimper, and it's worth every penny!

 

All done, this is after about a week of driving:

Edited February 5, 2019 by covertrussian

[ScottFW]

Only reason I wouldn't do it exactly that way is because undoing the strut bolts from the spindle means you've undone the alignment. Are a couple of scribe marks sufficient to get it reinstalled perfectly? Maybe, but I'm neurotic enough that I'd feel compelled to verify in some semi-accurate way. I've got a camber/caster gauge and toe plates, but checking all that is no more or less of a PITA than pulling the entire CV shaft from the car. Then you could re-boot it on your workbench and know your alignment is still good after reinstalling.

[covertrussian]

Only reason I wouldn't do it exactly that way is because undoing the strut bolts from the spindle means you've undone the alignment. Are a couple of scribe marks sufficient to get it reinstalled perfectly? Maybe, but I'm neurotic enough that I'd feel compelled to verify in some semi-accurate way. I've got a camber/caster gauge and toe plates, but checking all that is no more or less of a PITA than pulling the entire CV shaft from the car. Then you could re-boot it on your workbench and know your alignment is still good after reinstalling.

 

To remove the axle fully, you have to undo the top strut bolts, or lower ball joint. Living in a rust state, it's much easier to undo the strut bolts .

 

I actually did this around the time I did the Camber Goes to 11 Mod, infact I think while reinstalling the axle I noticed that there a little bit more camber to gain going to the very last mark.

 

I have toe plates, so I simply max out the camber on the bolt marks, then just make sure toe is good. Takes 5 minutes

[JmP6889928]

You are doing a LOT of amazing work on this car. I applaud your continued perseverance and energy. There is so much good information in this thread that I'm glad to say, I had already put it in my sticky. So many people can learn so much from your experiences and again, BRAVO!

[covertrussian]

Got an update to the oil consumption and a riddle: For last two months I haven't done a highway trip and my oil consumption went back down to pretty much none!

 

Thus it seems like oil consumption is happening mostly at steady state highway driving (~3,000 rpm). Could it be an oil seal leak that only opens at that RPM's oil pressure? I would think piston rings would seal better at that RPM.

[Max Capacity]

FWIW, after an oil change, I find it takes about 2500 miles before the wagon begins to use oil.

[covertrussian]

FWIW, after an oil change, I find it takes about 2500 miles before the wagon begins to use oil.

 

That sounds like normal oil break down then, what oil are you using again?

[Max Capacity]

Amsoil European classic

[covertrussian]

That oil should be good for plenty more miles then that, what weight are you using? Have you done an oil analysis?

 

It could also be my 5w30 oil sheering at highway speeds, while city driving it's fine.

[Max Capacity]

5w-40

 

I have been thinking about sending in another sample. It's been about 110,000 miles since the last sample.

 

There is a thought that may be the turbo seals are little weak, the vf52 has 127,000 miles or so on it.

 

I'm not really worried about it. What I'm more concerned with is the forever problem of trying to get a correct oil reading on the dipstick.

Edited February 15, 2019 by Max Capacity

[ScottFW]

FWIW, after an oil change, I find it takes about 2500 miles before the wagon begins to use oil.

Mine won't use any T6 for about 1500 miles after a change, then uses about 1.5 quarts by the 5000-5500 mile mark when I do a change. I check the level about every 500 miles and top off whenever it needs 1/4 to 1/3 qt.

 

It could also be my 5w30 oil sheering at highway speeds, while city driving it's fine.

I do a lot of highway driving at steady >3000 rpm. Higher rpm is going to shear the oil down marginally faster than putting around town at 2000-2500 rpm just from being pumped through the engine at higher pressure. There are also plenty of situations when I'm off throttle in 5th and decelerating, which pulls a nice vacuum to help oil get past aging rings and valve stem seals. Last Blackstone UOA I ran on T6 (80K miles ago?) the viscosity and everything else still looked very good at 5500 miles and they said to "try for 7000 miles next time." LOL no thanks.

 

 

There is a thought that may be the turbo seals are little weak, the vf52 has 127,000 miles or so on it.

@Max FWIW on the turbo seals, mine used oil at basically the same rate from 96K miles when I bought the car until a little over 182K miles, when I got the first inkling that it seemed to be using a little more (more than the normal increased use over an oil change interval). Watching it like a hawk over the next 1-2 weeks confirmed the increase, then one day it used 1 quart in the 90 mile round trip to work and back. That freaked me out enough to leave it parked until I got the new CHRA installed. So my experience was that when the VF40 died it was not a subtle maybe/maybe not kinda deal. You get a slight warning followed shortly by "OMFG it's toast."