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2007 Spec B 467/454 stock location GTX3576r

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Event: Dyno Pull

Location: Ziptie Dynowerks

Date: 11/19/2013



Ambient Temp: 60-70 or so in the shop

Elevation: 4200'

Weather: Light rain


Car: 2007 Spec B

Tuner: Me

Dyno Info: Mustang

Transmission: 6-speed

Gear: 3rd

Peak Horse Power at RPM: 467 @ ~6300

Peak Torque at RPM: 454 @ ~4900

Baseline hp/tq for a stock on same dyno: Don't know

Target Boost: 29

Target AFR: 11.7-12.0

SAE Correction factor: 1.15

Fuel: 91 and meth/water injection

Engine/Power Modifications: ATP GTX3576r EWG, TiAL MVR, TurboXS FMIC, FIC 775s, DW65c, Kamak ELH and UP, Turbosmart Kompact BOV, Invidia downpipe w/electric cutout, Cobb SF with custom CAI, Perrin 3" inlet, Snow Performance stage 2 methanol injection, Killer B oil pan, windage tray and pickup

Driveline Modifications: ACT clutch and flywheel, Group N trans and engine mounts, Whiteline rear diff bushings, shifter bushings

Suspension Modifications: Bilstein HD struts, Swift lowering springs, Whiteline sway bars


I really like this turbo. The power comes on a little late in the graph because it was ran in third gear. It spools 200 RPMs later than my TD06H 20g, but has way more airflow potential. I can reach over 30 psi by 4500 in 4th. It really is a nice, hard hitting turbo. Install was super easy too.


I have to remember to turn the traction control off if I plan on getting on it in first or second otherwise it cuts the throttle due to wheel spin. A third gear pull can get squirrely if the road is a little bumpy. Lots of fun!


Uncorrected numbers were 406 hp and 395 tq. My whole goal with this setup was to make over 400 whp uncorrected for elevation. I'm very pleased with the result.


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So here's a bit more info regarding this turbo. I couldn't find any data on it when I was doing research, so hopefully this will help someone out in the future.


I've got a virtual dyno showing the difference between 3rd and 4th gears. Notice how the 3rd gear pull is within a few hp/tq of the actual dynograph. This has me believe that the 4th gear VD would be fairly close to actual. All you get is a bit more power under the curve from the additional engine loading that spools the turbo sooner.


I was amazed how close it spooled compared to my 20g. The graph is from 3rd gears pulls on the same road. Also, the 20g curve is with a TMIC and 3576r is with a front mount. If I can figure out why my logger won't do complete pulls anymore, I'll post a boost graph of 4th gear. Some of the partial graphs show almost a vertical line when the turbo gets going. It's awesome.



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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, the stock location setup got boring after a few weeks so I've decided to go rotated with it.


If anyone's interested I'll have back-to-back results between a stock location and rotated setup using the same turbo in a few weeks. I'd like to break 500 corrected on a Mustang dyno with the stock block, heads, and cams.

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holy shitballs. 29psi on stock block? you're really testing the trans at that power level, shouldnt last much longer :lol:


but great numbers! seems like a very fun car


he's got a 6 speed. then can handle 600+ no problem.

also. 29psi is definitely pushing the stock cylinders.


I plan to run a few different maps on my fullrace twinscroll BorgWarner 8375 kit, 25psi, 20psi and 35 psi on e85, I went with a outfront motorsports closed deck 2.5l block to hold the extra psi.

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Thanks for the comments guys.


The new t04e compressor housing for the gtx3076 compressor showed up today. It will replace the t04b housing that ATP uses for their stock location setups.


.82 t3 35r turbine housing will be here tomorrow and the rotated up and downpipes on Monday. Then the fun can begin!


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Wow man, your car is putting down some good power. What are your plans for the block after it pops?


Depends on what breaks. If a piston goes and the block and rods are salvageable, I'll just put forged pistons in and freshen things up.


If a rod goes and takes the block with it then I'll start from scratch and build something with forged pistons and rods.

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No I'm going to stay with the stock manifold. The only other thing I'll do is heads and cams. And, who knows, maybe a 40r now that turbos are easy to swap :)


Update: I got everything buttoned up today and drove the car home from the shop. First time I drove it since Monday. It felt really good. I'll get out tomorrow and see what needs to be adjusted in the tune and beat on it a bit.


I don't have any completed pics yet. The one uploaded shows what the intake setup looks like. The turboxs fmic piping didn't need to be modified at all.


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Got some pics of the finished product and did a bit of initial tuning. So far spool up is the same. No difference in torque.


I'm going to head to rallysportdirect in a bit to pick up a t3 turbo blanket. After that I'll get to work on dialing in high rpm and see if there is a difference in peak power.


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Had a really nice 34 degree afternoon to get things dialed on the tune.


Surprisingly, there wasn't much power to be found. The graph is comparing the stock location and rotated setup on the same road and using 3rd gear. 4th gear brings power on around 500 RPMs sooner, but I get compressor surge during spool up if I get on it hard in 4th from low revs.


Boost is 29 psi for both. AFR is 12:1 for both. Timing is almost identical. I had to pull a couple degrees out during spool up on the rotated setup.


Seat of the pants tells me the rotated setup pulls a bit harder up top, which is seen in the graph. The rotated setup pulls smoother too.


Both these pulls ran an identical 1.545 60-80 mph.


Honestly, if I didn't have plans to make more power and had known what I know now from having both setups, I probably wouldn't have gone rotated.


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It's a completely stock 122,000 mile engine. It's never been out of the car or even had the valve covers off.


I'm only making around 420 uncorrected whp. The corrected numbers are used for comparisons. So, cylinder pressures are only enough to make 420 whp. Cylinder pressure, not boost, is what will send a rod out the side of the block. At this elevation you can get away with running higher boost if you've got a turbo that is ok at higher PR. If I were at sea level I'd need much less boost pressure to make an uncorrected 420 whp.


High boost is an issue if you are blowing off intercooler couplers or if you have a crappy intercooler that can't get the heat out of the charge. High boost will also wear out a turbo quicker. 30 psi is absolutely nothing compared to the pressure in the combustion chamber. I've got a decent front mount, meth injection, and an air temp gauge to keep track of hot and cold side air temps. I make sure to not get on it if charge temps are too high.


Interesting fact: Forced induction was first used in aircraft to counter the effects of altitude :)

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It takes a good amount of cylinder pressure to make 420 whp, so it will be interesting to see how long the original engine lasts for you. You do have the advantage that you tuned it yourself, so if you notice any knock you can easily adjust it if needed. Methanol helps prevent knock too. My stock rings got leaky at 95k miles after a year being at 350 whp and putting the whp to use on-track. :lol:
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It takes a good amount of cylinder pressure to make 420 whp, so it will be interesting to see how long the original engine lasts for you. You do have the advantage that you tuned it yourself, so if you notice any knock you can easily adjust it if needed. Methanol helps prevent knock too. My stock rings got leaky at 95k miles after a year being at 350 whp and putting the whp to use on-track. :lol:


Yeah, this thing will go sooner or later. In fact I should probably do another compression test to see how it's holding up to the increased power levels so far. I just need it to live until spring. I really want to run an 11 second pass here in Salt Lake with a full weight car. It would be nice to do it on the stock engine.


A little update, I turned the boost up to 30 psi and made 488 corrected. That pull ran a 1.48 60-80. So very close to 500...


The MAF is maxed at 5v on my 3.25" housing. I decided to go big and get a 4" MAF housing. It will be interesting to see how it works out. I couldn't find anybody online that has run that size MAF housing in draw through. So, I guess I get to be the guinea pig and see if it will be driveable.

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I'm in a bit of a dilemma with speed density. I like my cutout and there's no way to run a cutout with speed density. I really, really want to convert over. That will give me a reason to buy an AP and have real time tuning.


Problem I need to solve: High flowing exhaust with very little noise. I've bought my share of catbacks, but I always sell them because they're too noisy.

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