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Front end vibration at hwy speeds


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Tie rods, rotors, checking for bad bushings or bearings - are the end of the line - but you should start with a proper check of tire air pressure and a good wheel balancing. Once you take care of this - only then you consider the worn tied rods bushings (both ends), rotors and finally wheel bearings.

>> Couple hints:

With regards to wheel alignment, tire rotations and balancing - many places like Firestone auto care - they offer lifetime alignment for less than 200 dollars - Here in Northern California is a deal - in two alignments is paid off!

With regards to rotors - if you are looking for performance rotors or better quality rotors (made in the USA) check this place out:

www.brakeperformance.com

If you find a better place with better price - please post!..

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Tie rods, rotors, checking for bad bushings or bearings - are the end of the line - but you should start with a proper check of tire air pressure and a good wheel balancing. Once you take care of this - only then you consider the worn tied rods bushings (both ends), rotors and finally wheel bearings.

>> Couple hints:

With regards to wheel alignment, tire rotations and balancing - many places like Firestone auto care - they offer lifetime alignment for less than 200 dollars - Here in Northern California is a deal - in two alignments is paid off!

With regards to rotors - if you are looking for performance rotors or better quality rotors (made in the USA) check this place out:

www.brakeperformance.com

If you find a better place with better price - please post!..

 

 

Hey, good find for the new guy. Give that man a cookie or two.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Definitely get your control arm bushings inspected and have a brake specialist check your rotors for warping. I had that exact same problem and it was fixed after I got 4 new tires and had them fix the bushings. The warped rotor was a surprise, but wasn't? They felt a brake pulse in that exact range. Your Leggy should feel great after its fixed.
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  • 3 months later...
Problem never went away, but appears to be getting worse. This is with about 10,000 additional miles on the car. I believe it is a bad strut. I can pull on the top of the tire/wheel and feel a pretty good clunk like the the tube in the strut is moving back and forth. I have confirmed it is not the mount. On REALLY cold days, the strut on that side felt like a rock. I assumed there was some water in there. The seal appears to be intact, but must not be.
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  • 1 month later...

Was this problem ever resolved?

 

I'm having the EXACT same issue on my '11, and 4 trips back and forth to the dealer have still not determined the problem.

 

They claimed to have checked the tie rods, bushings, bearings, and CV joints, and that nothing looks off.

 

I also have tire feathering (the dealership claimed it was due to my "driving habits"), and suggested I get new tires. Except, my tires are only 8 months old, and the problems started 2 months after they installed them...

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i also got a slight vibration at about 75mph and occasionally it pulls a little to the left. sometimes its perfect..

 

 

IMO you have a bearing going bad. My wagon would get a slight shimmy at speed on some types of pavement, a few miles later it was gone.

 

The left front bearing bearing went a little while later. These cars are known for bad hubs.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Was this problem ever resolved?

 

I'm having the EXACT same issue on my '11, and 4 trips back and forth to the dealer have still not determined the problem.

 

They claimed to have checked the tie rods, bushings, bearings, and CV joints, and that nothing looks off.

 

I also have tire feathering (the dealership claimed it was due to my "driving habits"), and suggested I get new tires. Except, my tires are only 8 months old, and the problems started 2 months after they installed them...

 

 

Take the car to a real alignment shop.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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IMO you have a bearing going bad. My wagon would get a slight shimmy at speed on some types of pavement, a few miles later it was gone.

 

The left front bearing bearing went a little while later. These cars are known for bad hubs.

 

is this covered by recall?

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I replaced the wheel bearings, strut, strut mount, ball joint, both LCA bushings, and tie rod end. :spin:

The vibration is gone!:rolleyes:

 

 

See, with enough money, you can fix anything....;)

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Read JmP's sticky at the top of this forum. The bearings are in one of the post.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/idea-web-links-saved-various-parts-219238p2.html

 

see post #66

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I also have these vibrations. Thought it was from a bent wheel. Got new wheels and problem was still there. Was bad under breaking so I got new rotors and pads. Breaking vibrations greatly reduced but still at highway speeds. Replaced both front wheel bearings (we're shot and making lots of noise) didn't change anything besides eliminating eherl bearing noise.

Got alignment done. New struts. Still there.

 

Only thing left for me is bushings that I can tell.

Rotated tires and didn't change.

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I also have these vibrations. Thought it was from a bent wheel. Got new wheels and problem was still there. Was bad under breaking so I got new rotors and pads. Breaking vibrations greatly reduced but still at highway speeds. Replaced both front wheel bearings (we're shot and making lots of noise) didn't change anything besides eliminating eherl bearing noise.

Got alignment done. New struts. Still there.

 

Only thing left for me is bushings that I can tell.

Rotated tires and didn't change.

 

Replace just the ball joints before you mess with the control arm bushings. You won't believe what a difference it makes.

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The alignment should have ruled out ball joints or tie rod ends if the tech know his stuff.

 

Have you replaced the LCA bushings yet ?

 

My wagon has had whiteline and AVO bushing for many years.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Yea, I vote bushings next.

 

Take a look at your rear LCA bushings, I'll bet they are trashed.

 

Those are a common replacement item for us old guy's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I'll chime in with my issue. 2006 LGT wagon, Everything from chassis out is new except the LCA, Knuckle, and Inner Tie rods. I know that my rotors are warped as i get a vibration when I apply the brakes. My issues was resolved partially when I replaced the drivers side front halfshaft. Sometimes at 75-80 mph i get a slight vibration in the wheel and a roaring. A few min later it will be gone. After the axle the roaring decreased dramatically but on occasion, typically first thing in the morning or when getting on the freeway, i get the vibration. I also have a popping that can be felt in the floorboard fairly frequently when turning. I have inner Tierods and a passenger side halfshaft to install soon to see if that fixes the problem
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I Also get a couple of vibration ,for me it was the front caliper seize,Mag is a litlle bent too,and also center of the mag as some corosion where it supposed to sit on the hub ,after cleaning ,mag wont sit properly on the hub.Sometime a good wheel balancing,rotation and torque the wheel could help

Control arm bushing is not supposed to make some vibration but it increase some vibration from other part.

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The alignment should have ruled out ball joints or tie rod ends if the tech know his stuff.

.

 

Not necessarily. I had an alignment done by the dealer and they did not find a bad ball joint. Likewise, no amount of pulling or pushing on the wheel or control arm that I could muster showed any movement in the ball joint either. I had a vibration at high speeds that was noticeably worse when turning left (loading up the right side). Fortunately the right front wheel bearing started to make noise so I replaced it, and decided to replace the ball joint as well since the original had 180K on it on that side. To my delight, the vibration went away entirely afterwards as did the clunk I was getting going over bumps at low speed. The ball joints can fail when under load and that failure can't be replicated when the car is sitting still.

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