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Which BPV to Choose?


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It is confirmed, Synapse BPV (08 WRX flange) works with the chargepipe just fine. Only trimmed the chargepipe side of the engine cover to make it work with the rc-x tmic.

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I installed this last summer with the same setup and the edge of my bpv rubs on the abs unit a bit. Your doesn't? (it's a small rub, but it's there)

 

Also how did you plumb yours? (A/B vent to vacuum, atm?)

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I installed this last summer with the same setup and the edge of my bpv rubs on the abs unit a bit. Your doesn't? (it's a small rub, but it's there)

 

Also how did you plumb yours? (A/B vent to vacuum, atm?)

 

Small rub unfortunately, I just find some black heat proof cloth and tuck behind it. The BPV response is so fast because its synchronic type. No issue after tune, car runs great.

 

Mine is AB (standard)

 

-Gary

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm confused, to my (limited) knowledge of BPV vs. BOV, blow off valves vent to atmosphere making that 'chhhhh' sound when you let off the throttle. With my stock LGT right now I still here that sound, yet it seems most people here recommend a full recirc BPV. Do you still get that sound with a full recirc. BPV? I like the idea of a faster spool between shifts but I definitely want to keep the sssssSSSSS-CHHhhh because racecar.

 

Can anyone lend a brother some knowledge on the stock LGT set up and aftermarket recommendations?

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You'll still hear it with a full-recirc valve (as you can tell), just not as much as with a partial or full vent to atmosphere setup. I usually don't hear much unless I have a car full of people and the windows down, but it's there.

 

As acumenhokie alluded to, full-recirc is a good idea unless you're speed density tuned. This is because the air going through the BPV has been metered past the MAF sensor, so if you dump that air, you'll end up running very rich for a brief period because the ECU thinks there's more air in the cylinders than there really is. Speed density uses some nature of witchcraft to take the MAF sensor out of the equation, which means you can let air out (or in, in the case of some compressor housings and that Synapse bypass valve) upstream of the turbo with no ill effects.

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Speed density uses some nature of witchcraft to take the MAF sensor out of the equation, which means you can let air out (or in, in the case of some compressor housings and that Synapse bypass valve) upstream of the turbo with no ill effects.

 

 

and by witchcraft you mean volumentric efficiency. ;)

 

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/ecu-tuning-and-performance-electronics/241539-my-conversion-cobb-speed-density-start-finish.html

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You'll still hear it with a full-recirc valve (as you can tell), just not as much as with a partial or full vent to atmosphere setup. I usually don't hear much unless I have a car full of people and the windows down, but it's there...

 

Ah, roger that. Thanks! So the BPV in the link below will sound the exact same as the stock BPV but is better suited to cobb stage 2 tunes, correct?

(read in another post that the stock BPV isn't up to the task of the higher boost pressure.... or somehting along those lines)

 

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Go-Fast-Bits-T9133-Mach-2-TMS-Recirculating-Diverter-Valve

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Should sound more or less the same. I haven't replaced mine yet, though, so I couldn't tell you for sure. I've read the same things about the stocker not being able to handle higher boost pressure, and in some cases, leaking at stock boost targets, so it's definitely one of the weaker links in the system regardless.

 

Also, pic relevant:

6bb7a3ecabfd2b5262f4875edbeecb8610cf41fa9a2b1f024730e5ec21317698.jpg.e8e428e88498d3d31a3a783e9b17d178.jpg

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Ah, roger that. Thanks! So the BPV in the link below will sound the exact same as the stock BPV but is better suited to cobb stage 2 tunes, correct?

(read in another post that the stock BPV isn't up to the task of the higher boost pressure.... or somehting along those lines)

 

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Go-Fast-Bits-T9133-Mach-2-TMS-Recirculating-Diverter-Valve

 

You should consider getting the racerx charge pipe and then you can use a bpv for any 08+wrx which is easier to find, and maybe cheaper. Plus you get the pretty pipe.

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You should consider getting the racerx charge pipe and then you can use a bpv for any 08+wrx which is easier to find, and maybe cheaper. Plus you get the pretty pipe.

 

From what I saw on their website the charge pipe alone is $180 and then I'd still need to find a BPV. That route would cost me $300+ vs. just buying a Turbosmart Kompact plumb-back for $150. Half the cost and gets the job done.

 

http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Kompact-Series/Kompact-Plumb-Back-34mm.html

 

Again, I'm new to this so am I missing something?

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That route would cost me $300+ vs. just buying a Turbosmart Kompact plumb-back for $150.

 

...

 

Again, I'm new to this so am I missing something?

 

Nope, you are missing nothing. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the forum as only had a single burst/split stock charge pipe.

 

FWIW, I contacted msprank of Infamous Performance through the forum to buy a Turbosmart Kompact BPV earlier this week. As always, he gave me a good deal.

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Thanks for the info. Will I need to get a protune with this BPV or no? If not, I think the following is what I'll do:

 

Upgrade Round 1: Whiteline 20mm RSB, Cobb AP stage 1, Turbosmart Kompact BPV

Upgrade Round 2: Invidia DP, Borla Catback, cobb stage 2

Upgrade Round 3: Aftermarket clutch, maybe more suspension upgrades

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Will I need to get a protune with this BPV or no?

 

I didn't think so but Logan McDowell, in his stage 2 FYI thread, seems to indicate that you may.

 

Most likely, yes. I've had a few etune customers who had to upgrade their bpv mid tune. It will make a significant difference by actually holding boost. Don't let that stop you from doing it though. Your car will run better and it won't mess up your afr's like a leaking stock bpv. I'm holding about 2psi higher at 5,000rpm, with the same wgdc settings, just from the switch.

 

FWIW, the tuner I used said that the BPV was fine but the 2-port boost control solenoid (BCS) needed to be replaced with a 3-port. Thus, and for other reasons (e.g., the open source definition being completed), I'm doing both and going in for an new tune later this summer.

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  • 5 weeks later...
Thanks for the info. Will I need to get a protune with this BPV or no? If not, I think the following is what I'll do:

 

Upgrade Round 1: Whiteline 20mm RSB, Cobb AP stage 1, Turbosmart Kompact BPV

Upgrade Round 2: Invidia DP, Borla Catback, cobb stage 2

Upgrade Round 3: Aftermarket clutch, maybe more suspension upgrades

 

Forget the the Invidia DP, get in on the Nameless DWG DP group buy.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/group-buy-nameless-performance-2010-legacy-gt-divorced-wastegate-downpipe-243956.html

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http://www.gfb.com.au/products/blow-off-and-diverter-valves/respons-tms/respons-tms-t9033-adjustable-bias-venting-diverter-valve-bov-by-gfb

 

I have this installed on my GT in the STOCK location, completely stock fit, nothing needed to change.

 

I have mine set on 100% recirc, still get plenty of sound :cool:

 

Expecting more noise when I do the milk bottle delete too

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If I plan on buying the racerx tmic and chargepipe, this bpv would not work right? Since it is in the stock location. Sorry for thread jack but I didn't think this question is worth its own thread =d

 

Edit. Opps, nvm the question, found the answer just now -_-

Edited by dohclgt
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Just because I don't want to let this thread die...

 

blklgt05 (or GTEASER, if you get here first with your photographic memory), were you running (or trying, I saw you had some issues with it at some point) your Synapse DV in the stock location, or was your fit-up issue something to do with the RacerX charge pipe? I was kinda leaning that way in spite of the price increase over a Turbosmart or GFB unit (y'know, because racecar), but if it's not going to fit in the stock location, it's not going to do me much good.

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That's unfortunate. Any idea if it's due to the size of the case of the unit, or location of the flanges? Just wondering if it's something that can be worked around easily. I honestly haven't poked around down by the stocker, so I don't have much concept of how much room there is to begin with.
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Yeah, that's what I was looking at. Following Tuning Alliance's lead, I was looking at getting the weld-on kit plus an extra 1.25" flange, comes out to about $215 out the door from autoplicity. Even if you buy it direct, that combo ends up being cheaper than the Evo 7/8/9/X kit (which comes with 2x 1.25" hose flanges), plus you end up with a spare weld-on flange. Got the parts for the stock location, and I'll already have the weld-on flange if I enable myself into a different charge pipe in the future, AND it's cheaper than the Evo kit.
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  • 3 weeks later...

Any idea if the RacerX charge pipe and the Nameless '15 WRX BPV could coexist without the tubing adapter that Nameless would be providing? I'm not really sure how to check for that myself (particularly since I don't currently possess either part).

 

Edit: Although it looks like the charge pipe is still out of stock on RacerX's website. So... I guess I'd have to go with the AVO one and keep the tubing adapter.

Edited by Ellesedil
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You still need the 1.25" to 1" adapter regardless of what charge pipe you're using, stock, Rx or Avo since the flange on the Nameless BPV is smaller than our hose.

 

If you go with the RacerX your would need to block off the relocated BPV flange, or have it cut off and welded up.

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