tehspud

Sold for $18k

Hour left in the auction, up to $12,250

Yeah, I shied away from getting a 18" wheel/tire package because of tire prices. Instead opted for 225/45/17 tires to put on the stock wheels while I wait for a 17x8 wheel that I actually want to get back in stock, or show up used locally.

Had a little something dropped off on the porch today.

Definitely going to keep an eye on it. That's a very clean looking car, but it is modded. It has a reserve on it, I wonder what that is.

Yesterday I pulled out my aluminum control arms to clean up, so I'm not bringing in dirty parts to put on the press at my work. Discovered that, nope, that's not road grime, these have been painted black. Boo

 

Short of media blasting, anyone have suggestions on restoring them to aluminum glory?

Just got word from Tirerack that my rear Konis should be in my hands next week, and that's the last piece I needed for the big suspension refresh. Might make my own thread for my car to post pictures it.

This seems like an insane deal for the right person. I kinda wish I was that person.

Browsing the web for a nice, quality, light weight wheel.

 

Bump! For something I want, but don't need.

 

Bumping a 2 year old thread and getting my hopes up. Come on man!

PM'd about whiteline kca399

So I finally got the car back on the road this past Monday. We only did a basic eyeball alignment to get it to the shop.

 

First impressions after a little more than 100 miles:

- My old suspension was old. And rotted away. This is definitely stiffer than what I imagine it was before things rotted away. I don't hate it, just notice it. Roads aren't too bad here so it's not irritating. I think I can live with this long term.

- Even after the alignment, it pulls to the right. I can let go of the steering wheel in gentle right hand interstate bends. 50mph on a narrow backroad requires attention, otherwise I'm constantly yanking the steering wheel left.

- I installed the KWs at 8 clicks (toward softer) from full hard front and 6 clicks (middle) on the rear. It feels bouncy so I will likely go two clicks softer front and rear. Maybe 4 on the rear to make it same as front.

- I'm only a smidgen lower than before. I didn't want to go too low, and my old suspension was up to an inch saggier than that bright sunny morning in June of 2004 when it rolled into the world.

- Steering way heavier than before. I knew it would stiffen, I didn't know this much. I used to think my steering wheel was way light, especially in comparison to my wife's FX35. I'd say I caught up to that and then went a little further. The pull to the right doesn't exactly help that.

 

So I've got some bugs to work out. I'll continue to try to post a little more detail on the installation processes and experience, as well as a full parts list and current alignment sheet.

 

 

 

With the KTA124 rear lower control arms, did you opt for the camber bushings (KCA399) or standard ones (W63397) for the upper outer bushing? I'm curious if there's any benefit to having camber adjustment on both the upper arm and lower arms for the rear.

Wish I had the budget for some light forged wheels. Best I’ve ever used were RPF-1s, which are decently light for the size. I’m kinda over the split 6 spoke look, though.

8.5” and the right tire size is fine. Choose the wrong tire and it’s painful. I’ve been there.

 

I'm assuming "right size" is a 235 (for 17 or 18 dia wheels)? Seems like going up to a 245 is right around where you start having a bad time if you don't have the exact right setup, alignment, etc.

 

I do miss my BRZ in that regard, just slap on 9s with 255s and go.

Why does my brain keep wanting to do 8.5" or 9" wide wheels on the wagon? I know they're a pita to fit and require more work than I really want to do. Someone smack me through the internet and tell me to stick to 8" wide wheels.

Well now I'm waffling between Konis and Bilsteins. In reading a bunch of posts, seems like the swifts sit a bit lower on Konis than the Bilsteins in the front.

 

*EDIT* Maybe not actually the case? I'm sure it'll be fine, I'm just going into full analysis paralysis mode.

On a whim bought Infosecdad's Swift springs last night. I guess this spring's suspension refresh will be bigger than I initially planned. Time to think about Konis and what direction I want to go with the rear, either full whiteline lower control arms, or just refresh the bushings and get the upper camber kit.

 

Let's be honest, I'll probably go for the full control arm route.

I got that kit last summer, and eventually swapped the whiteline endlinks for solid kartboy ones. Felt and sounded like no matter what I did, the whiteline ones always changed length on their own and caused a lot of clunking. Otherwise I'm happy with the bars. I did the rear avo bracket supports at the same time. All in all the install was super easy.

Keep us up to date if you do take a chance on that grill. I also can't stand the stock usdm one, especially because mine has bubbling/peeling chrome.

Wow, watch that video and you will be buying those wheels...no matter how much they cost! I didn't even get to looking at the price of them. Very nice, for sure.

 

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

I thought the same thing, then I looked up the price. :eek: ~$800 / wheel is a bit too much for me right now.

Also aluminum doesn't rust form road salt, if you see that kind of thing.

I have a new set of Mevo in my parts bin, I ended up going with Forged ball joints.

 

The Proforge ones? Those are the only forged ones I can find. Jerks don't give you the pinch bolt with them...

 

Also, I thought some of the new control arms come with ball joints. Otherwise I've gone with Moog in the past.

 

I bought used spec-b front lower control arms off ebay that ended up being slightly cheaper than getting the mevotec aluminum arms. I already have new whiteline front and rear bushings for them, so used arms with shot bushings seemed like a better deal.

Might have just ordered aluminum front control arms to go with the new bushings I have lying around. Recommendations on ball joint brand? Only subaru, or is moog or mevotec okay?

I'd be all over this if they weren't on the other side of the country. GLWS!

So what does JDM bumper fitment mean for a usdm wagon? Tips going to stick out too much?

Alright, more WagonFest shots.