tehspud

23 minutes ago, ssbtech said:

Holy crap, that's a full on leak!  
That's actually fairly easy to fix.  My photo earlier in this thread (https://www.legacygt.com/topic/124818-fuel-line-leaking-how-to-access-clamp/#comment-2810256) shows that clamp that's leaking.  

Get some M4 0.7 wingnuts and thread it onto the upside-down bolt securing the clamp to the hose/pipe.  A wingnut driver will make this easier too.  

In my picture, I threaded on a couple of nuts to jam the wingnut to the clamp bolt, but for the second one I had to repair I had too little space and instead used a dab of red loctite.  Let that sit for a couple of hours, then you'll have the wingnut secured to the bolt sufficiently that you can turn it to tighten the clamp.  

 

 

 

I'll definitely look into doing this. I just went back out and managed to get my smallest vice grips onto the clamp fastener, and painstakingly tighten it 1/8 turn at a time. Didn't see any leaking on startup, I've got to do a short drive in a bit, so we'll see after that. 

35 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Oof.  That's fuel?  That should stay inside the engine.  Although, the cold does weird things to rubber parts.  Likely some seals have aged and contracted enough to no longer do their job?  Good news about those is they're all on the topside at least.

On the plus side, the engine didn't sound bad.  Did the oil light go off when you ran it like that (assuming that vid was after the oil change)?

Yeah, oil light went out a few seconds after starting up. I did the full throttle cranking trick to help circulate it a bit first. Looking around that hose to hardline is known to leak a bit in low temps, but that's more than just a drip or two! I don't really want to take off the intake manifold to get to that spot to seal it up, but I might have to. 

I just took my smallest vice grip, got it on that clamp screw, gave it an 1/8th turn, rinse and repeat for a bit. Started up, not looking like it's leaking, we'll see. 

Mine is full blown pouring out, now. It’s 12 deg today, has been in the single digits, and around 0 at night, since Friday. I don’t really have the inclination to take the manifold off in this weather, but it might have to happen. 
 

Update, changed oil. It was about a quart low, not great but not terrible after 4k miles. In sure some of that was still in the pan considering I couldn’t get any heat on it, and it’s 12 out there. 
 

HOWEVER

This is probably bad and I still shouldn’t drive it. (See attached vid)

23 minutes ago, SilentJ20 said:

Yikes.  I hope so, too, having just done a short block for other reasons.  The oil light is for pressure, right?  So once it warms back up outside you could do the post-new-engine method of building pressure back.  As in, pull the fuel pump fuse, crank a bit, rest, crank a bit, rest... a few times to see it the light goes off.  No ignition = less damage risk.  Have no idea if that's the best way, but it seems it couldn't hurt.  Too bad the damn oil pump is buried in there.  How often do those go bad?

Can you throw a heat lamp or something under it to warm the oil pan?

Yeah, light is for oil pressure. Above freezing temps aren't happening until this upcoming weekend, today's high is supposed to be 14. I might be able to get a small heater underneath the pan, and change the oil just in case. 

However I'm very much leaning towards just getting it towed to a shop and letting them figure it out. 

Let the car sit all weekend in single digit (F) temps. Oil light didn't go away on startup this morning, I don't really feel comfortable letting it idle to warm up to see if that goes away. I checked the dipstick, there's oil there.

I'm hoping it's just too cold, and my next post isn't about buying a new short block...

That's a nice example, and would make for a fun road trip to get it home. I'm always curious to see what these end up selling for. 

What's wild to me is that there are 01-04 LL Bean Outbacks that sold for ~$20k on BaT

16 minutes ago, shralp said:

Wish I could afford a low mile used VW R32, they pop up on Bring A Trailer here and there. Would gladly take a newer Golf R tho. Total Swiss Army knife car right there…

Mk7 Golf R is also on my short list for replacement. They're starting to come down in price, too. Unless you want a 2019 Spektrum color.

Still, until I find a better paying job, it's looking like I'm keeping the LGT for the time being. 

On 12/16/2023 at 7:17 AM, shralp said:

Hate to admit it but at this point if I could afford a GR Corolla, (circuit edition) or a R32 I’d gladly jump ship on my daily

Nissan Skyline R32 or VW Golf R32?

Sometimes I don't know. Sometimes I'm ready to move on to something different, the GR Corolla, specifically, has caught my eye. Unfortunately between mortgage, living costs, and student loans a car payment is not feasible right now. Sometimes I wonder if I can somehow sneak me having a second car by my wife, and get a BRZ again, because I do miss the one I sold. 

Other times I look at my wagon and remember why I searched a long time for one. I wanted to experience and preserve one of the last good, manual, "fast" wagons. I like the level of technology the car has, and how easy it is to work on. Upgrading the stereo gave me the only bit of a modern car I felt I was missing. I enjoy it every time I drive it.

I'll be ready to get rid of it someday, but I'll be a bit picky who it goes to when that day comes. 

My autocross experience (on my BRZ) taught me that the stresses from those wheels + just swapping wheels a lot every weekend or so is enough to kill the factory studs quickly. I went through a couple studs in one season before replacing everything with the ARP extended studs. 

Replacing all the studs is still on my to-do list for the LGT. This thread is probably enough motivation to get it done in the spring before the autox season starts again. 

22 hours ago, seanyb505 said:

By this standard I'd say uhp summer tires from 15 years ago are not true performance tires. The latest all seasons outpace the old stuff. 

I mean, I feel like we are talking about just modern stuff. No one should be considering putting on tires that old unless they're very, very desperate. 

If you're looking for new tires for street & track days (from OP), however, I don't think the DWS06 or other all-seasons should be in the conversation.

@KZJonny I'd also look into the HPS 5.0. I think they made some slight tweaks to the original HPS, and in my barely informed opinion they're better. Of course that's comparing across two different cars, 06 WRX on HPS vs 05 LGT on HPS 5.0, almost 10 years apart, so some salt required. 

Front: HB533B.668

Rear: HB434B.543

I've had this issue pretty much since buying mine. I just thought "old car smells sometimes." Looks like a little safety wire might make my wife more willing to take my car every once in a while.  

Doing some checks, and exploratory surgery today. I’ve got a chunk/clunk that sounds like it’s coming from the right front under compression. Took the strut out, checked the tightness of everything in the suspension on that side. Took a look at the engine mounts, sway bar mounts, etc. Cannot figure it out. Checked some other stuff in the engine while I was doing things, and accidentally denied myself AC for a bit… ooops! I also took off the under tray for now. It’s looking pretty beat up, and I suspect was the source of a rattle I’ve been hearing as well. 

Pulled into work at exactly 136k miles. Should have filled up 3 miles sooner though…
 

To expand on what Code said, STIs from '05+ are 5x114.3 stud pattern, the 4th gen legacy is 5x100. There are adapters you can use to put a 5x114.3 wheel onto 5x100, but they'll push out your offset by at least 20mm, if not more. That all kinda depends on how big the pockets are on the backside of the wheel. So now you're looking at an 18x8.5 +35. At that offset with those tires, you'd probably need some serious fender massaging and alignment to get them to fit without rubbing. 

Tire Rack - https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=Bilstein&model=B8+Performance+Plus+Strut&group=B8+HD+Shock&partNum=35-118336&autoMake=Subaru&autoModel=Legacy+Wagon+2.5+GT&autoYear=2005&autoModClar=Limited

Mach V Motorsports. I'd email them first to make sure, but I'm pretty sure the set they sell are B8s - https://www.fastwrx.com/collections/shocks-struts/products/bilstein-struts-2005-2009-legacy-gt

Summit Racing, suprisingly. Though looks like the rears are "special order" so that could take a while - https://www.summitracing.com/search/year/2005/make/subaru/model/legacy/department/chassis-suspension/brand/bilstein/part-type/shocks-and-struts?fr=part-type

You can also grab the part numbers off Tire Rack and search around, see if there's more. Seems like these are getting harder and harder to find. Remember you do also need to get the Spec-B Top Hats for the fronts. 

9 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Ugh... I can't remember the name right now, but one of the east coast engine builders also sells sets of B8 struts for a good price. If it clicks and I remembers, I'll post it up. I want to say they were ~$200 USD/corner.

Meant to bookmark it, because I'll probably be going that route when mine get tired, but I'd also consider the B6's as well. (What I have on now, and perfectly fine for the crap roads where I live. Going low in not an option around here...)

Fastwrx/MachV Motorsports?

From my understanding, the "B8" is what you want to use with aftermarket springs. "B6" is OEM equivalent. I'm sure a bit of searching around will get you what the actual difference between those is. 

B8 P/Ns:

FR -  35-118343
FL - 35-118336
R - 24-118354
 

B6 P/Ns: 

FR - 35-118312
FL - 35-118305
R - 24-118323

17 hours ago, Tehnation said:

Do all FMIC kits need to remove the bumper beam? 

I would assume so. The Grimmspeed kit for 08-14 WRX “fits” on the LGT, you just have to trim a bunch of the bumper, and you lose fog lights. But it does allow you to use their replacement bumper beam. 
 

Love the Bellingham events, though I'm biased because I ran that AutoX program for a few years in the early 2010s. They are the textbook definition of "postage stamp lot" though, so they tend to be very tight & slow. 

On 9/20/2023 at 3:31 PM, Febreze Mee said:

I'll grab a sticker for you @tehspud and send it your way. 

I appreciate you! 

If I Venmo someone $5, will they grab a WagonFest sticker and mail it to me, please? On a vacation with my family and it just didn’t work out to fit the Fest in.