SBT

You might want to pull your ABS wheel sensor to ensure your hub bearing assembly isn't rubbing back there. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5910030&postcount=512 All good with the brake rebuild?

98 should certainly curb any pinging from too little octane. I run 93 E10 or 87 E0, both seem to work equally well. But that's on the restrictive USDM tuning. 93 is the highest we get here locally on the East Coast. It was 91 E10 at best, on the West Coast. Are you planning to remove the cats as well?

What octane are you running?

When I was planning to build my own PC oven, ISTR that I was shooting for a 250*F max output. And, I guess I was thinking of CK as somewhat comparable Swaintech's White Lightning coating where it's put on in molten ceramic state and allowed to cool to .015in thick vs typical ceramic coatings which are about .002in thick. ST WL is very rough and very hard, you really have to use a grinding wheel and attack it with great vigor and you'll hardly have made a minor scuff in the coating before you run out of time, wheels, and energy. FWIW, any coating will crack if the metal substrate expansion rate is greater than the coating expansion rate. ST WL coating is rated at/above 3,000*F, but can still crack if the metal substate is expanding too rapidly.

Wouldn't the ceramakote temps be higher than the powder coat? If not, all else equal, will the CKote give as smooth a finish as PCoat? If yes, likely a tougher finish with CK vs PC but could be less flexible and prone to cracking with CK. and YMMV.

29.5 lbft

Wow! That's a lot of work. Hopefully you had it in the air and didn't have to do that on your back on the ground. I used a small amount of KOPR-KOTE SS-30 antiseize and thread lubricant on the threads before I installed the new sensor. I'm going to look into the sensor extender. Just looking at the angle and the loss of physical length, even before getting it into the engine bay, it seems like the extender is the way to go unless there's "signal" issues with it. And I understand there may be as at least one Master Tech mentioned that there's resistance calcs built into the ECUs tables. Haven't looked further into it, so post up if anyone has additional info on this.

Looks a bit carboned-up/oily or is that just release fluid? Did you use a sensor socket on it, or just an open-ended wrench/ WV socket set? BTW - the TR AA100 and the TR Mazda RX8 filters fit perfectly with the HH once I took off the DEFI Sandwich Adapter for the OP and the OT sensors. Otherwise, there were impingement issues. Don't know whether your are wrapped, or Swaintech or other coating, but if the former, that's likely taking up some room. Plenty of clearance with the ST coating. FWIW - I rehomed the OP sensor to the back left (from the front) oil galley, and the OTsensor to the 2nd KB Extended Oil Pan port. Had to buy an adapter for that. Also, any issues with running the front O2 sensor wiring though stock engine mount points to the stock connection point by the ABS pump? Haven't got the engine back in yet, but it looks like the angle that the HH puts the O2 sensor, the wiring may come up a bit short, or not mount to the valve cover points on the way to the connection.

Presume you've checked your front and rear lower control arm bushes to make sure that that's not the source of your creaking. Particularly at the rear bushes, as tears there, or compromised poly bushes, if you've upgraded can cause fore and aft as well as some lateral movement on straight-ahead stop/go driving. Sounds like something is loading/unloading and my bet would be on the LCA and/or the BJ points.

I also use the Motive bleeder, but made an adapter cap for my clutch. Any small threaded fitting with a hose fitting on the other end, screwed and glued into the top of a spare clutch cover works. It pressure-fills, the same way as the brake master cylinder. I had a spare oil pressure switch adapter that I had purchased to prefill the engine before reinstall. Worked perfectly. Checked your stroke measurement because I was literally just reviewing that to get Subenwagen back together with the least amount of back-and-forth after the 6MT Spec B upgrade. The measurements you mentioned above, are the same ones that I'm using since it's for both the NA 5MT and the Spec B 6MT. If it were a standard FI 5MT, the measurement is 5.31 - 5.51 in, which is considerably different. If you do any adjustments, make sure your clevis turns freely when the clutch is at full rest. Otherwise, your adjustment is off.

Just make it an even half-dozen.

I did mine on a bench with a standard issue air nozzle, and about 120psi of pressure. Right out. I have empathy for those whose brakes and bits are corroded ath, but enough air pressure and rust desolver if seized, and there's no reason you can't get them out.

What's wrong with the sunroof and how hard is this to pull? Any salvageable parts off it you'd be willing to ship?

If you haven't "picked" the dust seals loose, do that - careful not to scrape the piston. Then spray some PBB or Kroil into the piston area on the front side and spray some into the caliper through the brake line port, and let it sit. To create a good air seal, put a small ridge of twine or floss, 1/8-1/4" high or so around your air "tip" about where it would fit in the caliper - this is presuming a tapered tip. Then starting on the outlet side, wrap electrical tape around your tip, and continue to wrap backwards over the ridge. You're trying to create a flange-like pressure point seal, like a fuel line, to push against the caliper brake line port and seal your air. Put your calipers in a bench vise, with some thicker wood in place of the pads to cushion the initial piston movement and to balance the pistons as they come out of the bores, moving to smaller thickness wood to allow them to come all the way out. Make sure you wear hand and eye protection. Then put the air to it, 120-150psi if you can manage it. If one piston moves, but the other doesn't drive a wedge into the back side of the wood block on the moving piston side so that it can't move, but the other piston can, and put the air to it again. The other side should start to move. Coat any exposed piston surfaces and push them back in the bores, and keep at it with the wood and air. Use wedge pieces if one side is moving but the other doesn't or stops. They should pop out with just air pressure. Edit: See that you have it out already.

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Well, that didn't turn out as expected.

If your car has seen winter salt/chemicals, I'd replace the heater hoses and the hard coolant pipes as well. I'd be confident that the vacuum and decktop coolant lines have seen enough heat cycles to be brittle, swollen, or cracked. And definitely do your CO coolant pipe gaskets. That thing is a royal PITA in-car...less so when on a stand. And, I bought fuel-certified silicone line in 4, 6, 8, 8, and 12mm sizes IIRC, then cut to fit and used Oetiker clamps for all the vacuum lines. I did buy factory replacement fuel lines and install those while I had the IM off the car. Used Oetiker clamps on those too.

Nice facelift/rear tuck

Also having gone through this, $3-4,000 would seem a reasonable estimate (predicated on an $80-90/hr rate) , for everything - parts and labor. BTW, change out all your coolant and vacuum lines, including the hard mount pieces and the gaskets on your coolant cross over pipe, and your oil cooler...would also replace the oil cooler if it's high mileage and unknown provenance. Do the rear vapor barrier as well since the engine is out. Might as well do the pilot bearing in the flywheel too. Definitely replace the heater and radiator hoses, inclung everything to/from the turbo coolant tank. Inspect your AC and your PS lines while it's apart and replace as necessary.

Well done! Hope to join you very soon in the realm of the selfsustained 4 cycle goodness amplified by that wonderful Stromung tonal goodness.

It's what's recommended for lubing the clutch pivot shaft and slave cylinder to pivot shaft contact point on the 6MT. I think the Conoco Phillips Red #2 is a substitute, but don't want to buy 10 tubes.

Same on the 05 LGT. This was my first OCI on the 14 OB on Subaru's 5W30 Idemitsu Full Synth, and the first opportunity to do a health check on the internals. Probably be November before I can check it again.

Sweet mother of mechanics everywhere, that has got to be frustrating.

Something is rattling around in my mind that the 08 plus steering wheel spline count/size was different than the 05 to 07s