SBT

The horizontal, body-colored one that also acts as a door protector, or the lower one that wraps the bottom of the door? They both apply with adhesive tape and 1 or more clips. I have P/Ns for both, just need to know what color and which one, upper or lower.

Holy schnikees, your dentist must love you. Is there possibly something wrong with your tire gauge, because at those indicated pressures, those things should be like driving on lead donuts. SBT

Thank you & good info - at some point, I would like to do this, so it's good to know there are others in LGTland who have already done this. I was thinking of just going with the Spec B and not worry about Front or DCCD, but what's the fun in that? If you're going to go to the race gear, might as well have the full round. SBT

Nice setup and is it equivalent to the STIs OEM setup (better/different - how?) SBT

VN setup. I can only imagine what it must appear like though, to someone traveling in the opposite direction and watching that rig crest a hill coming towards them. You'd see the top of the boat and then this tiny spec of a thing in front of it. I imagine you really take advantage of the 1st gear 50/50 torque lock pulling this out of the water though. And, I don't recall it in your previous posts about this, but are you running surge or electric brakes with this? SBT

With only 61 of my version sold, you can bet I'm keeping all my stock parts. SBT

1 of 61, SWP/Tan Leather Interior, 2005 LGT Limited 5MT Wagons delivered. On the rarer-side. I tried finding the color codes for the units listed as alpha/numbers only (seems to be OBs only). Not a lot of success on that one. Perhaps members could post up their color codes for the ones not otherwise identified. SBT

Was that vid edited, because about halfway through it, the clouds jumped a couple thousand feet (give or take a few hundred). It was weird. Completely distracted me from listing to the boxer melody. SBT

' Oh noes.... it's pervasive.

Running them at stock and even higher pressures (39F/37R), the tramlining was just too much - think tired after driving from fighting the wheel more often than not. And rainy, wet roads with high winds really exacerbated this feeling. At first I thought it had to be alignment, but everything is spot on and it's the same alignment I use with the MPSes. It just got to the point where it was too much bother and I traded them in. Definitely did not feel as confident on snow and ice as the MPS ASes, but that's possibly due to regional road/temp differences. Perhaps in really cold climes, the MPSes wouldn't be any better (or worse) than the CECs. Dunno. Just know that for SoCal snow, I really like the grippy tread blocks and the ice compound in the MPSes better.. SBT

#1) 225/45x17, Michelin Pilot Sport All-Season on stock wheels, $780.00 Mounted/Lifetime Balance (at Discount Tires), 31,000 miles on Set 1 (w/about 10K left in the tread) about 1,000 miles on Set 2 replacements #2) San Diego (SoCal metro and mountains) #3) Commuting, Canyon Carving, light tracking (hopefully) #4) Percent of highway vs. city driving: 70/30 #5) Original OEM RE92A; folby Conti Extreme Contact AS (too much tramlining), folby MPS PS-AS, folyby MPS PS-AS. #6) Dry, wet, snow (live for snow) - all excellent. Dry - absolutely no tramlining which on SoCal roads is immediately noticeable if the tires tend this direction, i.e., Conti EC ASes. Corners very linearly, turn-in is crisp and precise and makes for some fantastic on-ramp and canyon carving moments. Woot! Wet - Love this tire in the rain. Unlike with the RE92Aes, I don't tense up when I see standing water, the car doesn't pull or dive when you hit large freeway puddles or collected water at the road edge. They just sipe it off and keep going. Standing starts and traction on rain-slicked roads feels just like on dry roads. The harder you push them, the more they "bite" and really communicate well what's going on at the tire contact. Snow - Ah, snow. Had a huge Valentine's Day snowstorm hit the county here and we got to the mountains, just ahead of the road closures (you can read about it here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1710713&postcount=125). We were in 6-8" deep, unplowed snow (with some ice underneath) and had no problems starting, stopping (on serious uphill and downhill stretches) and getting around where others were hung-up, stranded, or otherwise unable to move. Compared to the RE92s and the CEC ASes, the MPS ASes are as different as night and day. The MPSes grip and keep gripping, where I never felt confident on the previous tires. Even on icy roads - Another time, we were again in the mountains and it was raining and freezing. While the ambient temps didn't indicate freezing temps, the road surface was freezing. I couldn't even tell that the road was slippery until I did a 2nd gear "romp" and felt the wheels churn a bit. I let off the gas, and the car immediately straightend out at which point I locked the brakes and with no drama, it stopped quickly and straight - something that would never happened with the RE92As or the CEC ASes. Braking - Another strength. These tires will quickly bring you to a halt, even taxing the Anti-lock system in dry, wet and snow situations. Again, very linear and resonsive to brake inputs Trade-off - the tires are marginally less quiet than the RE92s and the CEC ASes and they feel slightly heavier (could be the 225 size vs the stock 215 size) - but you quickly get over that when you realize what you're getting in return. Treadwear - How many ZR rated tires, sport-driven, will last 40,000 miles? Like I mentioned above, I had 31,000 miles on my original set of MPS ASes and could have gotten another 10K miles out of them, but wanted to be ready for the rain and the snow season, so changed them out for a new set. Balanced every 5K miles and run at 38F/36R pressures unless I'm towing, then I run 38F/40R.While I researched all of the possible replacements, I felt that for value vs. performance, longevity and safety, there was nothing on the market that compared as favorably, and bought a second set to replace the first. I will be putting these on my 18 x 7.5" BBS RGRs as well when these wear out. Hope this stayed true to the OP's orginal intent. SBT

Agree with the oil being a contributor, especially since heat "applied" does tend to enable it to start. Also agree with battery diagnosis, including all connections at the battery end and at the engine side, including the starter, the main fuse block and the ground system. If it's rolling over and still not starting, then it's going to be fuel, air or ignition. Check that the throttle body is opening up and that it's not stuck (frozen) closed, check the spark system - including the ignitor, and that fuel is getting to the cylinders. SBT

Went back to stock over the weekend and I've got to tell you, I'm just not content. The car is too quiet. Think I'm going to work on a little mod and go back to some version of the HZ mod. This all of course, in anticipation of some stellar sounding CBE system that works, looks good and hangs right. So my $1.40 HZ Stg 2 mod sound was setting the sound/aural standard for what I'm looking for in a CBE and prepping the family for a more "permanent" change. SBT

Should one interpret "higher revs" to = higher speeds, or just revving into higher RPMs. If it's the first, then of course it'll sound quieter at speed, you're leaving the sound behind man. If it's the latter, then sitting in one location and revving makes a tremendous amount of noise... Just have someone do a driveby at WOT with STG II HZW mod and you'll likely change your view. It's pretty throaty and loud - more furious (mad as hella) burble but I'm sure some of it is still lost (attenuated) going through the cans. SBT

Sounds like what I was proposing here... http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=752520&postcount=663 except using varying gauges of copper wire so it would mold and form a good seal across the top portion but leave the bottom open to exhaust the Hog-zawst. lol SBT

Aight! For those of you getting carbon build-up on the bottom of your cars - here's my proposed solution. Single 10-12 gauge solid copper wire should approximate Stage 1 (1 thick HZW). Single 8-10 gauge solid copper should approximate Stage 1.5 (1thick / 1 thin HZW). Single 4-6 gauge solid copper wire should approximate State 2.0 (2 thick HZWs). May still get buildup, but should be significantly lessened. SBT

I defintely agree and I hadn't thought about the difference between the MT and AT brethren. I think if I had an AT, I might view the mod completely differently. We've all heard the autobox rice rockets roaring up through the gears only to hear that "sag" between upshifts. For those of us with MTs, there's no way to mistake it for anything but an MT.... Very subjective but imho HZ, V1.0, Stg 2.0 + MT = definite goodness HZ, V1.0, Stg anything + AT = jury's out... SBT

I want to hear that boxer burble all the way from barely turning over (which certainly helps with clutch engagement) all the way up into the upper registers of the RPM range - read full lilt or aural nirvana. That's what makes a Subaru boxer burble so special. It calls to you AND to those who are used to hearing the typical I-4 EL header'd hopefuls - "that was something different and it sounds good". The HZ v1.0, Stg 2.0 does that SBT

It's actually leading the SoCal Post Whoring Thread by about 4,000 views. Meh... wthc... SBT

39 2x now... lost my cookie... did I just say that???? Had to restart the thread. my HZ v.1, Stage 2.0 SBT

Ordered SWP, baby! Just exactly the way I wanted it. SBT

Love the freer revving/breathing of the stage 2, but will probably drop it back a notch. Three months and no soot, carbon or other buildup - other than a little (normal) combustion moisture-related carbon on the flanges. Make go back to stage 1 just to compare and/or may go the 10AWG half-blocked mod instead. Actually, since it's so easy to go between, will likely try both. My real reason for going this route was to see 1) how much noise attentuation the stock muffler system was really adding and 2), how much additional noise ABOVE stock was my family (read wife and daughters) really willing to put up with. Daughter no. 2 commented yesterday that it reminded her of sitting in the back of the cabin, NEXT to the engine (think MD-80, DC-9) while flying at cruising altitude. I guess that means there's a drone... SBT

vel0mac - superb writeup and analysis of alternatives. And you're a machinist too. Nice. Keep up the good work and every OBW owner should be tipping their hat to you for the effort. SBT

The OEM Mount Blanc (MB) Square Cross Bar Kit (SCBK) mounts up very securely. Sorry I don't have any pics but the first order of business is to open them up as far as they'll go (without pulling the threaded rod completely free). There are two things that need to be set before you can do this properly and you do them both OFF the car: 1. Slide the MB towers (mounts) into the grooves in the cross bar ends so that the tower "cam" device is up inside the groove, not below it. This is an important step. The cam sets on top of the tower and both locks the rack onto the tower and keeps the rack from sliding sideways. 2. Now, cup the tower's side rail clamps (both sides of the tower) in your hand while you back out the tightening rod (turn it counter-clockwise). Hold pressure against the rod so that as it reaches the end of its threads, it will "click" inside the internal clamp. Once you hear or feel it click, then, while holding pressure on the inner side rail clamp and pushing on the threaded rod, tighten the rod one full turn (clockwise) to make sure it remains engaged with the clamp. Do this for all four towers and now you're ready to mount up the OEM rack. Note: You'll know you've done this correctly if you can move the inner side rail clamp back and forth and the rod moves in and out of the tower. If it doesn't do this, then you've backed the rod out too far and disengaged it from the side rail clamp. You'll need to feed the threaded rod back into the rail clamp until you can reengage the rod. You can go in any sequence but I started with the driver's front and did the front cross bar and then moved to the driver's rear and did the rear cross bar. You’ll likely have to “eye-ball the spacing on the tower mounts for the time being. Initially, you’re just trying to get them mounted to the roof side rails. Later, you’ll want to make sure that they’re even and sealed (more on this later). These are the steps that I use to attach the SCBK to the roof side rails: Starting with the left front of the car, pull open your tower mount clamping mechanism and make sure that the rubber insert is fully up inside and engaged across both sides and the top of the side rail clamping mechanism. Set your tower mount, with the inner clamp spread open as far as the threaded rod will let it go, down onto your roof side rail, sliding the tower forward until it is about ¼” – ½” back from the end of the groove on the inside of the side rail. Make sure that your rubber insert remained in place across the side rail and down along the inner side rail clamp. If it buckled or came off the mechanism, just lift up the tower, reseat the rubber insert and set the whole mechanism back on the side rail as before. Keep at it until the whole mechanism, including the rubber insert is firmly established on both sides of the side rail and firmly attached to the clamping mechanism. Now, while holding firm (not hard) downward pressure on the top of the SCBK rail, tighten up the threaded rod (clockwise) until you feel it starting to “snug” down on the side rail. You should simultaneously be able to see the inner clamp tightening down on the inner side rail groove and the outer clamp starting to “squish” the rubber against the outside of the side rail. Don’t tighten it very much because you’ll need to walk over to the other side and attach your opposite side tower mount. Repeat the same steps for the opposite side, as well as the other two mounts to the rear. The only difference on the rear is that you’ll want to slide the rear towers aft (back) until they are a ¼” – ½” from the end in the inner side rail groove. There is ~2” of narrowing between the front of the side rail and the rear of the side rail. This means that your rear cross bar will look longer than the front. That’s not really the case; just that the towers set in further on the roof and that makes the cross bar “protrude” further than the front bar. Once you get all four corners mounted up, then go to each corner and tighten the threaded rod clockwise until you can’t turn it anymore, then turn it one more ½ - 1 full turn while holding downward pressure on the top of the bar. You may have to turn the rod back and forth just a bit to make sure it seats in its locked position, just remember not to back it off any more than you need to, to ensure that it lines up with the lock seat. Lock your tightening rod with the supplied “key.”Now that you’ve succeeded in attaching your OEM MB SCBK to your car, you’ll want to take measurements for both your front and rear bars so that you can center up the cross bars on the front and rear mounts. Also, there are four pieces of measure-marked plastic strips that come with your kit. These you’ll need to cut to fit in the slot in your cross bars on both the inside and the outside of your tower mounts. The reason you need to fit into the slot is that otherwise the airflow over the open slot would drive you to distraction; it makes so much noise without them. Don’t worry that you don’t fit them perfectly. I believe I allowed ¼” extra on each side of the tower mount to make sure that it snugged-up under the mount. You can also dab on some silicon sealer if you end up with a big gap for some reason. Anyway – I’ll try to take pics to augment the how-to instructions but hopefully, this will get you mounted up securely and ready for the next big adventure. SBT

We've created a Car for Sale sub-forum, which is only for vehicles which are not for profit. If you want to make a profit selling vehicles please find another venue to market your vehicles. READ EVERYTHING BELOW - ALL THE WAY THROUGH This document provides the site's policy on Eligibility, Documentation, and Listing Requirements, as well as Post-Sale Information. It also provides the template to use for setting up a Car for Sale Thread and closing it out Specifically note that all photos required by these rules must be "loaded" to the site's server A how-to walk-through, for loading required photos to the Site's server, are found here Linked or off-site hosted photos are not permitted in the Member Marketplace and will be removed where found ^ Just one of the specific details you'll want to make sure you read and understand before posting you FS thread. COPY AND PASTE THIS TITLE FORMAT AND TEMPLATE INTO YOUR FIRST POST FS - LOCATION: (STATE/LOCATION) - VEHICLE, YEAR, MAKE, MODEL Year, Make and Model: Color: Miles: Transmission: Title: Lien: Location: (City, State) VIN: (you must insert your VIN here - no exceptions) Seller's email address: (insert your email address here) Asking Price: See well-documented example at the bottom of this post. ELIGIBILITY REQUIREMENTS - MEMBER-SELLERS ONLY, NO EXCEPTIONS: This sub-forum is for member-sellers only If you have a vehicle for sale, list it in this forum. No vendors or spammers! If you don't own it, don't list it. No selling items for your friends, colleagues, co-workers. They can register and sell their own items. Post or threads from non-eligible members will be removed. Repeated violations will result in time off the site and could ultimately result in a ban from the site. Please report if you see anyone violating this rule.. DOCUMENTATION REQUIREMENTS - NO EXCEPTIONS: A. Location of item must be listed in your title. Please post the state or province, country, etc where your vehicle is located. B. Vehicle Identification Number must be listed in your posting. Please list your vehicle's VIN so it's available for checking against registry reporting systems, i.e., CarFax, AutoCheck, etc. Listing false or fabricated VINs for your vehicle is grounds for banning from the site for fraudulent activity.[/font C. Picture/s of the listed item must be loaded to this site within 24-hours of thread posting. Within 24-hours of posting your thread, you must upload actual pictures of the vehicle you are selling in the current, sellable condition to your for sale thread. These pictures must be loaded to LegacyGT.com. As a minimum, pictures must include Exterior and Interior shots that show the actual condition of the vehicle. Any external damage noted, or material condition changes, must be documented with photos. Use the New Reply, Manage Attachments, Browse, Open, Upload process to upload the pictures. Once the ready-for-sale-condition photos are loaded to this site, you may also provide a link to pictures to your vehicle for sale on eBay, or another FS location, provided you have pictures loaded on the site. Links to photo hosting site photos, URLs to "like" vehicles, or a link to another FS thread, I.e., Craigslist advert, in lieu of the 24-hour posting requirement will result in the thread being closed. Misrepresentation of an item is unacceptable and offenders may be permanently banned. D. Post a reasonable price. We are not eBay, nor an auction site, so "make an offer" is not acceptable. Reasonable price means that you have done some research and identified a fair price-point that will actually sell. Requesting "offers" without a reasonable starting point is essentially the same as requesting members to "bid" on your item(s). Listing intentional over-inflated pricing is also NOT allowed and will be subject to closure and/or infractions. LISTING REQUIREMENTS - NO EXCEPTIONS Retain all original post information - don't delete anything. Member-sellers are required to retain all original post materials, e.g., listing information, photos, price(s), etc., if/when the vehicle is no longer available for sale. This "No Editing Out" of for-sale information policy protects both the buyer and seller and gives other members a price-point to use in establishing the potential market value of their vehicle(s). Post vehicles that are ready to sell. Otherwise, please make sure you let potential buyers know when the vehicle will be available. POST SALE INFORMATION Using PayPal. Never use PayPal's "gift" feature to purchase a vehicle on the site. If the only way a seller will "sell" is if the buyer acquiesces and uses the Gift choice, then, this may very well be a scam and buyers are warned. If you use PayPal's Gift feature, and the seller receives the funds, from PayPal's perspective, then you the buyer truly intended this as a "Gift" and PayPal will not attempt to collect from the seller no matter how much you protest. A gift is a gift. However, if you choose to use PayPal's other options to purchase a vehicle, you have a limit of 45 days from the original date of purchase during which you may lodge a dispute and petition for a refund. 60 days from the original date of purchase if paid by a Visa or MasterCard with your bank Shipping/Handling may be part of the sale. Once a vehicle is sold, the sale is not over. Making sure the item is delivered (or shipped properly and arrives to the intended buyer) is the responsibility of the seller unless other agreements have been reached. Disputes must be handled privately. If there is a problem or issue, you must first work it out amongst yourselves via PM, email or other communication methods. Do not post in the open forums until you have contacted the OP to first attempt to resolve the issue. Only report poor sales IF you have no success in coming to an agreement. Poor Seller / Buyer Note. Any member who is a poor seller/buyer and is unwilling to resolve any issues will be placed on a time out or banned depending on the severity of the offense. This will not be a unilateral decision, but will be based on an assessment of the situation by the moderators. Use i-Trader. i-Trader enables other members to review transactions between a potential seller and other members and then determine if they want to do business with that seller. For those members who have had a good experience, then post a POSITIVE rating If there was an issue and it was resolved, please post a POSITIVE (because it was resolved) or a NEUTRAL rating If you have a bad experience with a member, and are unable to resolve the issue, then post a NEGATIVE rating and a short note describing the issue(s). In all cases, remember that you need to work it out, do not just immediately post a negative rating. Remember, the moderators are only able to police what we see and we cannot see everything. If you see a violation, please report the thread or send a PM to any of us. And more than anything, BUY OR SELL AT YOUR OWN RISK! HOW TO SET UP A CAR FOR SALE THREAD: USE THIS EXAMPLE: To create a Car For Sale listing, use the pull-down menu to choose whether the vehicle is for sale or for trade and it's location, and what it is you're offering. Use this example: In pull-down menu choose: FS - Location: FS/FT - Location: Then add the rest of your title information. You title will look like this: FS - Location: (MD) - Unmodified 2005 Legacy GT Limited Sedan Then create the thread itself. Use this example (using member DavidPHume's excellent example): Year, Make and Model: 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited Sedan Color: Satin White Pearl Miles: 34,245 Transmission: 5 Speed Manual Title: Clear - no accidents Lien: No liens Location: Duluth, Minnesota VIN: (you must insert your VIN here) Seller's email address: (insert your email address here) Asking Price: $16,800 FIRM Background Information For sale is my 5 speed manual 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Limited with 32,xxx miles. The car is Satin White Pearl in color with black leather interior. I am the second owner and purchased the car from a friend's mother (she is in her early 50's). She purchased the car new from Miller Hill Subaru and had ALL of the required/optional maintenance performed at the dealership, including the 30,000 mile maintenance. It goes without saying that this car has been stock its entire life and not driven hard. It has a clean title and has no accidents, etc. to report. I believe the car has every option that was available at the time of purchase: STi brake, gas, and clutch peddles Momo shift knob with factory short throw shifter Auto-dimming mirror with compass Locking lug nuts Rear spoiler (I wish it didn't have this option http://mnsubaru.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif) I'm posting this up mainly as a feeler. I have an itch for a BMW/Audi so I may pursue that if I get what I want for this car. I'm not even dead set on letting it go, but I have a problem with keeping cars for very long (ask my friends). I am a perfectionist, so I will point out all of the things that I see "wrong with it". These are all things that are expected for a car made in 2005. On the driver's side back door, there is a small dent near the window. This dent can easily be taken out via PDR and is not noticeable unless you're looking at it correctly. Secondly, the bottom part of the front bumper is scratched slightly which reveals the plastic. This is only noticeable if you're level with the bottom of the bumper or lower and is roughly 2" long. The passenger side mirror has a .5" scrape on it which was touched up with the factory touch up kit. Continuing around to the back side of the car, the bottom side of the bumper on the passenger side has some weird scoring in it. I have absolutely no idea where this is from, but I will do my best to show it in the pictures. The tires are likely original and have a season or two left. I've had no traction issues even in the snowy Duluth winters. The previous owner, and myself, never drove the car on the highway so there are no rock chips, etc. that are normally associated with that. As for the interior... well... it looks brand new. There is some VERY minor scratching around the shift boot (high-traffic area). But it otherwise looks good as new. The carpets have no stains, the leather is perfect and not faded or torn. The back seat looks unused. I am very tedious about my cars and lately it's been getting washed 3 times a week inside and out. The car currently has a lien on it, but I do have the title. Once the lien is paid off, my bank will send you/your bank the lien release. I prefer cashier's check/wire transfer/cash for payment (in that order). My father has a dealer license and can transfer the title for you at his place of business. Also, I understand what the car books at through the various services, but more importantly I know the Legacy GT market (I had a black LGT limited a year or so ago). As Legacies go, the color combo and mileage of this is quite desirable (I love white cars!). Also, keep in mind when reading this that Subarus in Minnesota have a tendency to sell for more than book value (I have sold 3 and have gotten at least book, if not more, for all of them). As such, please do not chastise me for this. I am willing to work with you on the price, but only to a degree. I'm not taking $15k for it, so don't even ask. I like the car an have absolutely no trouble keeping it. Also, I am not interested in trades unless it is a very specific BMW/Audi. Thank you for reading. I hope this car goes to a fantastic new home. CLOSING-OUT YOUR SALE: USE THIS PROCESS Browsing through sometimes pages of a member's car for sale thread thread, where many members have asked whether the item is sold or not, is both frustrating and burns up bandwidth which is expensive. Once your car is sold, make your last "New Reply" thread post that the Car Sold to Member XXXXXXX for $111111 amount. Keep all of your OP intact and edit-in a banner across the top of your OP to read: Car is SOLD. Please notify a moderator and we will close the thread so it will not clog up the forum For any issues, problems, questions or help. Please PM me or notify a moderator and we will be happy to assist you. Please keep in mind, we cannot watch every thread on the forums so we rely on our members to help out if they see something that isn't right. Thanks for keeping the forums running smoothly! SBT