stewdogg

Motion passed. Does that mean this is officially happening?

I went the same way with mine, the used stock engines were way too expensive for what you get (~5k for something that had 100k on it) and the JDM's were cheaper, but still a used engine with unknown history/miles. I was planning on pushing the car a bit more and a used block most likely had the same curse as the stock one.

I put this set in mine. I just replaced them all because I was in there, they had 130,000 miles on them and why not for the insurance all around. That was my motto during the build... might as well while I'm in there.

Just pull the intercooler coupler out of the car (the short hose from the intercooler to intake) and grab the end that the clamp is on and pull it away from the opening of the hose. It should pull right off. There is one on each side of the coupler hose and I would remove both. You can then reuse the clamp and coupler hose.

That intercooler coupler was all messed up on my car. There's a pic of it in my thread below. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stewdoggs-2010-gt-269205p14.html I didn't reuse the hose on my car, but the gasket pulls right off and you can use the hose on it's own without the gasket installed. The gasket is one of those things that I don't understand why it's there other than to create a possible issue in the future.

Yeah, I feel like if it was losing boost at full boost you would hear the blow off. I have lost charge pipes on my diesels at work and they make a big bang when they blow off. Almost sounds like a fueling issue because of no check engine light. I would think bad spark would throw the engine light or cause a misfire.

My WRX and XT lined up better than the GT. Mine were off a bit on the GT too, but not as far as yours. This tool helps a ton when putting things back together. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N4GVR7Z/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFQSExMSFJPSDRESjcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3Njc0NjdHUE8wR1NXSkdHUEwmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDUwNTIyMjJRV0Q1RUdZNEFZS0kmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWwyJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== That right side likes to advance or relax back in place with the slightest touch.

You have it lined up correctly. The mark your looking for is faintly on the rounded piece of aluminum thats oxidizing a bit above the pulley. I'm sure you could wire brush it a bit and it might show up better...?

I'm sure the damper delete will help with that clutch feel. I would do it sooner than later, my clutch was all heat marked up from the slipping from the damper. The clutch was in good shape aside from the all the heat discoloration on the flywheel. Haha, the butt dyno is the most important dyno there is. Nice work on doing your own machining. Did you buy a Neway cutter or have a friend with one? Any plans on going past stage 2 or are you content there?

1)I think the OCV's are side dependent. There is a tiny filter in each control valve that's removable, if you're very careful. Mine were filled with metal shavings from my beat up engine. One of my filters was ripped and needed to be replaced, but the other was salvageable. You can't get a replacement filter and have to buy the whole Oil Control Valve. 6) How can I get in on some of this profit?

Haha, at least I know your cars red now... By the looks of the picture I would like to hear the story now too. Go figure, it was the more expensive of the driveshafts and the nicer of them as well. That's what I get for trying to save a buck. I ended up using the AEM X-Series 30-0300 AFR sensor. When it gets colder and I have more time I will update this thread with a build sheet on the first page and list the pics of all the crazy shit I found from the guy who worked on the car before me. It was some crazy stupid stuff. I did go with the South Bend stage 2 daily and I really like it. It feels very stock like. I did the clutch damper delete at the same time as well and I like that a ton. I hated the dead feeling clutch pedal, I need a little feed back. How do you like the 6 puck clutch? What kind of power do you have feeding that thing?

I wouldn't trust a trunk bike rack not to scratch the paint on a Subaru. I have had trunk mounts on other cars and they aren't very stable either. We just got a hitch mount rack on my wife's Forester XT this summer and we like it a lot. It's very stable and we can still get in the back of the car with the bikes on. I plan on putting an eco hitch on my GT this winter while its hibernating. Towards the end of the first page in the post linked below, there's some pics with the Eco Hitch on GTEASER's GT and it looks good... for a hitch. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/hitch-2013-legacy-210110.html?t=210110&highlight=trailer+hitch Sorry I'm not more help with the trunk rack.

I believe the wastegate arm was too tight against the wastegate spring, not allowing it to move freely and at the correct spring pressure. The porting should allow the wastegate to open a little easier (if anything) by allowing more exhaust gasses out the port and not into the turbo, creating more boost. You've been around here since 2017... where are the pics of your 2011 GT?

I like the borderless idea, I have some things that I would like to get more air to behind the mesh anyway. Thanks for the leg work on this!

I have been thinking about the grill mesh lately again. Is the CAD file something that can be shared like a template? Or does it not work like that? If not, are you going to start making and selling them to our small community?

Mine was brutal to get out the entire way... terrible pervious "mechanic". I just had a longer breaker bar and maybe more muscle:p (just playin). I did mine while standing up, under a lift, so I had some good leverage. A 20 inch breaker bar is pretty short in the world of breaker, cheater and extension bars. If you can get the socket on there solid enough to get the wobble and gun on without stripping the head, you should be able to get it with a longer breaker, especially if you don't care about snapping it.

They do have orings inside to seal them up, so they could leak. I think I've seen write ups on rebuilding them... If it's leaking, you should be able to see some oil in the seams of the pulley, where the pieces of the sprocket/pulley comes together (where the aluminum piece bolts to the black pulley). When my cam seals were leaking, I could see the leak on the outside rear of the black timing belt cover. I could also see evidence of leaks inside the timing belt cover. How much oil is leaking and how often? Keep an eye on that timing belt, so it doesn't become compromised by the oil.

Just gonna tease us and not tell the story...?

Bryan told me that he HTA68 was gone and the HTA71 was it's replacement.

Cobb fixed the update today and Accessport Manager 3.0 is good to go... back to tuning!

Turns out that backing off the wastegate arm 1 and 1/2 turns did the trick and my boost is back under control. I've done a few pulls in 3rd to get the fuel trims set with the AFR's and now on to boost and timing. I got a new tune from Dave/Cryo to load up today and go figure the Accessport Manager program needs a mandatory update starting today. So, I update it... it's got a bug and won't open. I can't go back to the old version either, so I'm at a stand still again till they get this resolved. I called Cobb and they are aware of it and working on it.

Just a different compressor wheel over the 18 and 20 G's.

BNR HTA71 too...

A shop usually has a bunch of bearings to pick from as well, so you are sure to get better fitting bearings over buying a single set. Would you be blueprinting the block as well? You will need OEM case halves, lower block (https://parts.wildesubaru.com/a/Subaru_2012_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6023211/CYLINDER-BLOCK-LOWER-10MY-12MY/B14-004-03.html)and oil pan. As far as I found out on my build, that lower block mounting to the case halves is the only unique thing to our 5th gen block. I was told that there was an extra threaded hole in the block as well, but can't confirm. This is a tough car to build for cheap because the parts are fairly rare/limited and don't tend to go on sale much. Good luck with the build!

I had all 4 of my Felpro cam seals leak when I did my build this spring. I put in some genuine Subaru cam seals and I haven't had an issue since. There was a visual difference in the make up of the seals and the Subaru seal looked like a superior design over the Felpros. Oddly enough, the Subaru seals were cheaper... I hardly ever see cheaper OEM parts vs aftermarket. Got any info on the car? What year, miles, how did your issues unravel...?