stewdogg

I got the fuel pressure sensor installed today and thought I was ready for a tune, but I was informed by Dave that I need a wideband for tuning. It's so close I can taste it.

I did try to install 180 off and had the same results. I hear you on the rebalance, but I paid for a good part and didn't get it, so they can give me my money back. The u joints on my stocker are stiff and have a pretty good detent to them. I will replace it before the boost gets turned up too much. Granny shifting sucks, especially when a nice WRX pulls up next to you at the lights or that guy in a piece of junk is hammering it and pulling away from everyone at the lights... makes me wanna hit the boost. Glad to hear you are getting some trouble free miles on the new build. I have about 1,200 miles now and just waiting for a little turn up tune from Dave at Cryotune. I still have the last piece of the puzzle to install tonight, the Cobb fuel pressure sensor and I'm good to go. I thinking it should be around the 350whp mark... give or take. I would like to get closer to 400whp if possible, but would be happy with 350whp as well. Got any plans for yours? I think you kept the rebuild stock due to your smog regs.

This car just keeps giving... me problems. Turns out the drive shaft was no good. It provided a big vibration between 35-40mph. I got it from Carid and after some time spent persuading them to give me my money back they did. I'll pick up a different one soon and see if I have better luck with another manufacturer. It was a Cardone and I know they suck, but tried to save a buck. I can't save a buck on this car. I have been having issues with fitting the fuel pressure sensor that I got with the Cobb flex fuel kit. I got mine from import image racing and it had the wrong size billet connector for the fuel pressure sensor to fit on the flex fuel sensor. They list the 5/16 billet connector for our cars and it really needs the 3/8 billet connector. Cobb is overnight shipping me the correct one and it should get here tomorrow. It has been a bit of a process to figure it out with Cobb, but glad it will finally be sorted out tomorrow. Dave at Cryotune mentioned they were having some issues with the flex fuel kits as well. I just did my ~1,000 mile O/C tonight, no more fluids leaking and now I'm ready to start tuning the car and getting back to some boost. Next I'm going to get an appointment for some window tint. Also thinking of blacking out the chrome around the windows. How is everyone doing this? Just getting some vinyl and doing it yourself?

Haha, my first thought (after that's gonna look great) was now it's going to hit my lift and curbs... Not really worth a ~$1,000 for something that will get beat on that much, I agree. This was the right price for me to pull the trigger too. I have put enough money on the inside, now a little for the outside. Oh yeah, every time I look at your awesome avatar it makes me laugh, thanks.

Oh just a little late night parts buying... https://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Limited-Front-Bumper-Lip-Spoiler-PU-Fit-For-10-11-12-Subaru-Legacy-Sedan-4Dr/321904698227?epid=1665603057&hash=item4af303e373:g:St0AAOSwcFxal2BD&frcectupt=true

That's awesome! congrats! What's your current setup? I couldn't find your build thread...

It sits on the lift tonight.

Way back last year, when I replaced my center diff, I noticed that my driveshaft u-joints were real notchy and I've wanted to replaced it since then. Well, today was that day. The new driveshaft is a little beefier in a couple places, it works great and fits like a glove.

Either way, When I had my engine apart and cleaned out my oil control filters there was debris in the filter that needed to be back flowed to get it out. There would be no way to do this with any kind of fluid. I agree that if you are going down this road there are bigger issues at hand. I run a fleet and get an average of 400,000 miles on my engines. I have used marvel and trans fluid to help an issue and I have never had any luck with a magic fluid as a solution. Normally you have to bite the bullet and fix the issue. I have used Dr. Tranny to get me another 1,000 miles on torque converters from time to time, but inevitably the problem needs a fix and not a band aid. Good luck OP and don't let the discussion steer you away from finding an answer to your issue.

Sounds like the high and or low horns are going or have gone bad. They are pretty easy to replace... they are the first two options on the page in the link below. https://parts.wildesubaru.com/productSearch.aspx?ukey_make=5806&ukey_model=89998&modelYear=2011&ukey_driveline=53362&ukey_trimlevel=110403&searchTerm=horn

Yeah, I put a new T mount and PCV valve in with the build. The one in there was all trashed. Plus, I put way too much effort and money into it not to do the easy and cheap stuff. Thanks for the heads up, I appreciate it!

Even closer to the end of the break in miles...

Yeah, I ended up buying a new camshaft sprocket from the dealer and installed it a couple weekends ago. I also found all 4 of my Felpro camshaft seals leaking. I picked up some Subaru seals, replaced them and they have been holding great. I had some help putting the engine together and found a broken oring on the avcs sensor and the right side valve cover leaking (replaced the fel pro with a Subaru gasket again)... all on the side he worked on. It's all sealed up and holding oil now! I'm about 400 miles from the 1,000 mile break in. I am ready for a little boost and maybe some cruise control real soon. I really need to get off my lazy ass and put a write up of the build in the thread one of these days.

I had that code as my engine was dying. When I tore the engine down I found the tiny filters clogged in the oil control valve body. There was a ton of debris in the filters and they were essentially clogged shut. The valve is in this parts break down, at the bottom of the head (10197/10917A). https://parts.wildesubaru.com/a/Subaru_2010_Legacy-25L-TURBO-6MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54102_6023313/CYLINDER-HEAD-SYSTEM-10MY-12MY/B14-006-03.html You can take them out, but you must be very careful not to rip the screen or break the plastic. The guy at the machine shop put a hole in one of mine and I had to buy a new valve body ($120 from the dealer) because they don't sell the filter separately for this year. I used plenty of mass air flow cleaner (easy on plastics), soft toothbrush and an air compressor to blow air through the filter. I got mine about 99.9% clean and they have been working great. If it is a clogged valve control screen, then I would be worried why there was so much debris there to begin with...

We drove all the way up, but it was snowing when we got there and couldn't see much from the top. That lack of oxygen at altitude thing is intense. There was some hurting people sitting in their cars at the top. Did you get to drive all the way to the top? We road tripped there from WI and I didn't think it was too bad. I have made that car trip about 6 times now. It's a quick 13 hour drive from here.

When I was out there earlier this year there was a Suburban, Yukon or other large SUV in front of us, while coming down Pikes peak. They got to the brake check stop and he was around 900 and just took off blazing away from the checker. They radioed ahead and I'm not sure what happened after that, but I'm sure he got stopped further down the mountain. I was golden because the Camry we rented had an engine braking button.

Seems I have been having a little bad luck with a couple leaks on this new build. I had to swap out the new radiator last night due to the end caps seeping and losing some coolant. At least it's a much easier job than the cam seals.

Hitting the scenic route for some break in miles.

I'm surprised you could find one in stock at all. I only found a couple parts in stock for my entire build... the cam seals and exhaust camshaft sprocket, everything else had at least a two day lead time on it.

Mmmm, A little Blue Mountain coffee, Jerk chicken, goat curry and some Ackee and saltfish... I love Jamaica! Have fun! You doing any of the sight seeing? Where you guys staying?

I finally wired up a relay to turn my AWIC pump on with key on. I had it hard wired to the battery and used a fused link to turn it off. It was only for a couple of days, but what a pain in the arse to open the hood and pull the fuse to turn the pump off all the time. I used the rubber grommet for the clutch lines to punch a tiny hole through for the power wire to get into the cabin area. I used the lighter in the console instead of the one in the dash for power because it was much easier to deal with the wiring. It's so nice not having to pop the hood every time i drive the car!

That sounds like BS to me. Did you ask him why? I would be very curious as to his reasoning.

I'm rinning the Koni/Eibach for a one inch drop, I'm using the old 1" spacers that Sarang had on his Gt and a 225/50/18 on stock wheels. I have hit the liner on the front driver's side over a bridge transition at too high of a rate of speed and hit the liner, but under normal driving conditions it's mostly fine. I did scrape a little with 4 adults in the car over an aggressive bump, but that's unusual too. I'm going to be in the market for new tires and possibly wheels as soon as I can get it to start holding all of its fluids on its own...

Search for a reputable builder in your local area, unless you have the whole summer to wait for your block. I looked into getting a block from them and it was a 6-8+ week wait at that point... they are good, just not that good that I would wait a couple months to get my small block. I researched a local builder with a great reputation and got mine from Quantum Performance in 4-5 weeks.

Haha, it took me a second to realize that it was an actual pic on your credit card and not a reflection of your car behind you. That's awesome! Tell her it's either this of the GT makes it in the next family photo.