stewdogg

Thanks Scooby, that makes total sense! I have been back and fourth over the numbers of so many wheels I forgot to check that one the last go around. That would stand true for my stock wheel to aftermarket wheels as well. The 40 profile is closer to my stock profile after the wider wheel and wider tire. I bought the car with snow tires and the previous owner had put 225/50 18 (I thought 50 was stock till looking for new wheels/tires) on it, so when I put the 25mm spacers on it rubbed a bit, but I think with the 245/40 18 set up I would have ample room and might not bottom out on that rolling bump on my way to work that I might take a little too fast sometimes. Thanks for the help lining up all the numbers in my head. I have the ole girl at the window tint shop currently.

Are you on the stock suspension? Any reason you went 40 instead of the stock 45? That is a real nice yard! Thanks, I want a more squared look too.

Alright, I think I have my wheel/tire decision down... I was looking at the Enkei TS9, but Fitment didn't have my size in stock and they were told by Enkei that the TS9 is discontinued. I looked into the Enkei TSP6, but couldn't find it in my size and was told by Enkei that they wouldn't be back in stock for a minimum of 4-6 weeks. That brought me back to the TSW Bathurst, it's a pretty light wheel at 18lbs. The wheel is 18"x8" 35 and I'm trying to decide between a 235/45 or a 245/45 on that wheel...? What would the difference be? From what I've read I think the 235 would be more squared off in looks. Does the different sidewall shape give a tighter feel or something or does one have a benefit over the other?

I finally had my recalls done today. It was the air bag, parking brake actuator and windshield wiper cover. It was an interesting not contact exchange... pulled up to the door, someone took my information from a distance and I left my keys on the seat. I had to pop the hood and tell them of some "custom" tricks to a couple thing with my car. When I picked up the car they left the keys on the seat along with the paperwork. No payment so that part was easy. They treated the car ok, there was some dirt streaks on my passenger seat, no big deal because everything else looked fine. Although, If I was working on the car I would clean up after myself, but that's just another reason I haven't had/let anyone else touch my cars in 20 years. I have tried at work to get the dealer to give me the parts for warranty work to install myself, I offered to sign a waiver through my business, but no go. The one I asked for was a faulty window control switch on 6 of my vans. Oh well, worth a try. Friday, I drop the ole girl off for some window tint on Friday. I'm leaning towards keeping it legal, which is 50% front and 35% rear in Wisconsin. I wanted 35% all around, but don't know if I feel like getting messed with by the police or having insurance deny a claim because I have illegal window tint...?

It's officially yours if you bleed on it!

Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it! I did see the Option Lab wheels in the photo section and they look good, just a little aggressively sharp/pointy design for me. The TSW Bathurst's are 18lbs and I'm sure that would be a nice change from the stockers at around 25lbs. I like the Koing Rennform's too, they're 20.4lbs, but cheaper by $550... wheels are a pain to decide on for sure! That Torch is a good looking wheel. Are they gloss or matte black?

Yeah man, where's the blurb and more importantly, where are the pictures?

I got the street IAG AOS and that one recycles the oil back to the block, so I'm not sure how much it pulls out. I don't see oil in my charge pipe anymore, so it's pulling something out. The Comp version of their AOS vents to the atmosphere. Yeah, the PCV is just taking up space in the garage. Shoot me your address via PM and I'll ship it out to you.

Yeah, those are case halves and then you need to put the guts in it. I had one built from a local builder and that's what they did. They got the case halves and put stage 2 parts in it. Here'e the build sheet for just my stage 2 block. (click on the pic to read)

Thanks for the heads up, I'll ask him when I send my next log. I'm not sure what to expect from the dealer? I always buy parts from this particular dealer, but never have anyone else work on my cars, so not sure how the shop is. I have an extra (practically new) PCV setup since I installed the IAG air oil separator, but don't know the part number of the T off hand. I also finally made an appointment to get my tint done a week from this Friday.

I finally bit the bullet and made my appointment for my LGT recalls. Turns out I have three of them pending... Air bag, parking brake actuator and windshield wiper motor cover. My car is so far from normal at this point that I will have to chat with the mechanic to tell him all the funky stuff going on. I really hate to put the mechanics of my car into someone else's hands!! I'm wondering if I should load my break in tune, so they can't take it for a joy ride...? On another note, I think I have one more log to send before starting corn!! I will hopefully be smelling the sweet (?) smell of corn in the morning.

It certainly would be helpful to be able to check boost and knock. With those miles it could be anything. ColbyMP, what percentage of throttle are you giving the car when the noise happens? It sounds more rotational to me due to the certain speeds and RPM's that it happens when accelerating or decelerating. It doesn't seem like it need to be under boost to happen...? It's also a pretty small window that you are actually hearing the noise... Any engine noise under the hood at idle?

There's always this fart producer you could check as well. This is the pipe between the intercooler and intake. They came with a short rubber sleeve on both ends from the factory. There have been a number of people around here with a failure of this particular part. Not sure it's your issue, but something else to check out.

Can you capture the noise on video?

I seem to be going a little nuts looking for a wheel set up. I started here: https://www.fitmentindustries.com/buy-wheel-offset2/F27188510HGM40/MIC03481/f1r-f27-gunmetal-18x85-40-michelin-pilot-sport-4-s-245-45zr18? Then, I read around here that the F1R wheels aren't that great and I think they must be gravity cast wheels, but I can't seem to find confirmation about it. I liked them and some subtle parts of the design less and less after finding out those things. Although, I really like how the wheel dishes in to the center cap. I continued down the road and saw this set of Option Lab wheels: https://www.fitmentindustries.com/buy-wheel-offset2/L16-88580-40-MGM/15499860000/option-lab-r716-gray-18x85-40-continental-extremecontact-dws06-245-45zr18? I can't find out if these in particular wheels are low pressure cast or flow formed? I'm not 100% on the sharp aggressive lines of the wheel, but I do like it as well... Now, I'm at this point with the TSW Bathurst: https://www.google.com/search?q=tsw+bathurst+18x8+35&rlz=1C5CHFA_enUS717US762&sxsrf=ALeKk01IBKba3gd1skW83kOA1Ps2YSglaw:1588130951034&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiVs8Xp2IzpAhVLGs0KHYphDx0Q_AUoAnoECAwQBA&biw=960&bih=532 Pretty much a smoother more quality version of the F1R wheels I had as the first choice. Not sure if they are worth the extra $500 compared to the other wheels...? I'm kind of trying to stay with either a 18"x8"x35 offset or 18"x8.5"x40 offset wheel. That and the 5x100 makes it an interesting problem to solve. Anyone have any other wheels for my list?

I went with used 2011 Sti cams and they fit like a glove...

I have had one of those removal tools for a while. It does work great if the threads on the bottom of the ball joint are in good shape. Every once in a while I don't take the time to put a nut on the end of the balljoint before smacking it with a hammer to break it free from the lower control arm. It is another great tool to have in the box for sure! Thank you for sharing as well, I really enjoy when people share shop tips! I have a cheap 80 gallon Porter Cable at work that's almost 15 years old. Most days I'm surprised it's still going and I use it daily. I have a Ingersoll Rand 20 gallon Garage Mate at home. The volume doesn't keep up with the air tools very well, but the pump is strong and seems to keep up fine for my needs. I guess I wouldn't try to use a paint gun with it and you need to take a couple breathers if your using an angle or die grinder, but everything else has worked great. Air tools do make everything easier to get off/on, but also easier to break things, if you don't know what you're doing with them. Sometimes the only way to find out it to give it all the ugga duggas and find out the hard way... the way I have learned most things in life.

I completely agree, I have had more time to do jobs here at home. Everyone needs an air hammer in the tool box. I found the kit for a better price shipped... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4Z853X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I sent a set to my step dad who is in his 60's and still working on cars, but doesn't have one of these.

So, I have had a clunk in the front of my car for quite sometime and have done a bunch of things that were that were aged in the front end and the last is the driver's front ball joint. I replaced it today and viola, my car is quiet over rough roads and entering my driveway again! I know I just wrote in another thread that I haven't broken bolts in a Subaru in sometime. The last one that mattered was the lower balljoint bolt that locks the top of the balljoint in place. It was in my 2002 Bugeye shortly after I got it and that was a pain to deal with. Since then I picked up a tool on the tool truck that has proven invaluable for the Subarus I work on. The tool goes in an air hammer and you turn it with a wrench. So, it bangs towards the bolt and you turn. The one below is not from the tool truck and is much cheaper because of it. https://www.toolpan.com/Mayhew-Tools-32029--Pneumatic-Shake-N-Break-Set-2PC_p_40300.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw7e_0BRB7EiwAlH-goLpzZKw8eT3YrkfK-zkx7KHulVkrnvDppMnzYDmR7f5M99Kr2YRyXxoCh-MQAvD_BwE Edit: I found it for a cheaper price shipped. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H4Z853X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have used this to take out a bunch of the lock bolts from Subarus and it has been great every time. Better than heat and PB blaster (or your favorite penetrating oil) for getting those bolts out. I didn't even use any penetrating oil on mine today, just took it out dry. I still mark the end of the bolt to know when it turns, so I don't break one, but it has been working nicely.

I removed mine last year for the build, I'm in Wi and didn't have any issues either. I have had good luck not breaking bolts on Subaru's. I have broken plenty of bolts over the years, so maybe I'm learning...?

I agree with the farm and implement paint being much stronger, but I prefer to get a can of paint and brush it on. It's too difficult to get a good coat from a spray can because they have to dilute it so much to get it to spray out of the can properly. It goes on much thicker with a brush and it really doesn't matter if it's completely smooth because no one will see them clearly. It will resist chips better as well.

Years ago, a nice diesel mechanic taught me a trick for bleeder screws and it has worked for pretty much any other stuck bolt, unless it's connected to something that can't be heated. Heat up the nut and take a rag soaked in water, wrap it around the nut and cool it down as fast as possible. I haven't busted a bleeder screw since and I have seen some really crusty vehicles in this rust belt.

I'm in the middle of my e tune with Cryo Tune, so I've been putting in some miles on the LGT lately. I think we are getting ready to switch to corn soon! You guys are missing out on all this cheap gas right now... here at least. I think regular is at around $1.30/gal and I saw $.89/gal just outside of town.

I painted my newly purchased OEM lines with farm & implement paint. I imagine that it should keep the rust away much longer.

I wonder if it's to aide in preventing a harmonic vibration in the pad. Stop brake squealing. I have had them in different fleet trucks over the years too. I have had plenty of seized slide pins within that time, but never any that had the rubber bushing, so I don't know if I agree that it traps moisture or debris. The solid pins with the three small flats are the ones I see have issues. I have had to heat and beat them with an air hammer many times to get them free.