stewdogg

I agree with FLlegacy, pulling the engine is a bit easier than dropping the trans, even if you have a lift. Supporting the engine while you try to work around everything else would be a huge pain. I think the engine mounting on the trans makes it easier to pull the engine and not worry about the trans. The clutch fork failure on these cars seems to be the second (maybe tied with throwout bearings) most likely failure to a worn out clutch. Due to the nice knowledgable folks here I installed the billet fork and pivot ball when I did my build this spring. This is just the fork alone: https://www.importimageracing.com/products/verus-forged-clutch-fork-subaru-wrx-legacy-gt-outback-xt?gclid=CjwKCAjwq4fsBRBnEiwANTahcPtkGOLm2vhskwK9vWbsiqMtBEcf-APwoNnj4Pu78q1LYBmrDU-JlRoCMOEQAvD_BwE This is the combo fork and pivot ball: https://prime-motoring.com/verus-clutch-fork-ball-combo.html I'm sure you could find them cheaper, but it's just an example of the parts you want, if you need to go down that road.

Do you have somewhere to store a car? I always thought two was the answer... you know for anything. It's easier to cover all the bases that way. What's your new hobby going to be if you don't have the LGT...

For $42 it seems like a good way to freshen up the wear spots on my steering wheel. I was thinking it would make it warmer in the winter too, but my new engine made mine a garage queen for the salty winters to come.

That's what I was told by my tuner, that the 15 WRX had a more "sensitive" O2 sensor and the stock gen 5 sensor isn't "sensitive" enough to log the changes in AFR. I'm sure the threads are the same between the two sensors, I just don't know past that. Did you end up finding a solution?

I would like to see the faces of the people in the car on those WOT uphill launches with a fully loaded car! Sounds like fun! What would it take to get the STi to compare?

Looked like fun!! How much is a day there? Really wanted to hear the RPM's and turbo spool.

Thanks Scubaboo! I fear forgetting most things is most likely in my future, but maybe that's a good thing, I don't know. How did you all spend your spare time tonight...this is how I spent mine... That thing was a beast to put back in by myself. I have the car on a lift and really need to pick up a screw jack for under the lift, these arms and shoulders didn't enjoy that at all. All to move the two nuts back on the wastegate actuator 1 and a half rotations. I will email Dave tonight and get a pull logged (hopefully tomorrow) to see if the waste gate is functioning properly now. It sounds nice and quiet on the highway with that new wheel bearing too!

The way you are describing the start up after ECU reset is totally normal. The initial start is searching for parameters for the ECU. It also takes a certain amount of time or starts cycles to settle on an idle for the ECU. Mine searches for an idle for quite a while before settling... get to a stop sign/light and it flutters up and down upon clutch in and eventually settles on an idle. When was the last time you updated the firmware on the Cobb AP?

I had some moaning on the right hand side of the car and could make the noise louder by loading and unloading it by swinging the steering wheel left and right while going down the road. Time for a new wheel bearing/hub assembly. That thing was a beast to get out. Pulled out with the slide hammer, the bearing separated and I then persuaded the rest of the bearing out of the knuckle. I also had a seeping axle seal on that side, so I took care of that as well at the same time. I also have finally gotten to the tuning process and go figure, I can't get through it... I am hitting 20PSI of boost now that the weather is a little cooler and less humid. The problem is that I'm just running on 0 wastegate duty and should be more around 15PSI, so I have an issue. I have talked to Dave at Cryo and Bryan at BNR. We have come to the conclusion that I have to drop the turbo off the car and back off the lock nut on the wastegate arm to let the wastegate move freely. I don't think there's anyway to access that lock nut while on the car. I really thought/hoped that I would have my tune by now... BACK TO WORK!!

From what I understand, the stock O2 sensor on the 5th gen Legacy's isn't sensitive enough to log the changes to air fuel ratios. I guess the 2015+WRX sensors are better and able to log the changes. I'm not sure if the lack of sensitivity directly relates to the EGT's as well or not...?

Anytime is a good time to leave work, but tonight was worthy of a picture.

That turned out great! I imagine you used the compound with a polisher and not just elbow grease. I used the Meguiar's Ceramic spray wax this summer and I like it more than any other spray/wax I have used. The shine lasted longer and shed water better than anything I have tried so far.

The car looks great! Maybe I'm blind, but do you have a price on these?

Just remember that there is a 2 day lead time on almost all of the 5th gen LGT OEM parts, at least that's what I found with my build.

Does it scrape more if you make a turn? It could also be rust build up behind the rotor not allowing it to seat fully. Make sure it's clean and not too chewed up. Are you torquing the lug nuts or just hitting it with a bunch of ugga duggas? If you lift the front do the wheels spin without too much drag or have a tight spot?

From what I have seen I think you get a pretty thrashed 5th gen for around 8-10k and the nicer ones are more around 15-18k. Due to the fact that the 5th gen was only made for 3 years, only ~2,000 total made over those 3 years and the block is unique to the 5th gen(1), you are going to spend much more on a rebuild than the pervious gen GT. You can find some JDM long blocks to put in it, but who knows if the miles are true or what condition it's in. There are a couple changes you need to make with the JDM's too. I just went through this same scenario about a year ago and now I'm sitting on a 18k car that I originally picked up for $8,600 with ~130k miles on and I put a TON of work into. I do enjoy it more than the stock set up though... 1-The only difference is the baffle on the bottom of the engine and I believe one extra threaded hole. Other than that, it the same as the more common blocks, but it's enough to make them unique.

I was told by my tuner that you need to do a different type of break in for the new cams and lobes. They need higher temps and friction to harden properly. I put a set of used cams in, so I just followed the common break in on my build.

I can picture the words, but would be much more enjoyable with pictures...

Something like this help? 9. Audio System.pdf

Is the parking brake dragging all the time? Have you jacked up the back of the car and tried to spin the wheels, with both rear wheels off the ground?

I also installed the Torque Solutions Carrier bushings with the install. I fully understand that these offer no real benefit, but they look good and it's another toy for the car. Torque Solutions bushing. Compared to the stock bushings. Installed in the car. The new driveshaft took 95% of the vibration out of the car that I had. It has been a faint vibration on the highway since I got the car and I'm very happy to have that fixed, finally. I need to get my wideband installed today or tomorrow and on to tuning next week. I'm heading off to Fl4tfour Fest today and I was hoping to have the tune going, but all the bad ass subies will be some inspiration to get things finished up or at least moving forward again.

Well I finally got around to getting another driveshaft, after the last rebuilt driveshaft was bad. I ordered a Cardone rebuild the first time and the second is a Dorman. The Dorman seems built better from the get go and it's new, so all the rubber isn't spray painted black. I like the build of the Dorman because it uses an extra U joint for connecting the two pieces of the driveshaft. The top is the Dorman, middle is the stock set up and bottom is the Cardone. Dorman left, stock middle and Cardone right.

When I did my engine build this winter, my clutch had hot spot too and looked relatively new. The hot spots are magnified or caused by the clutch damper. It's made to slip the clutch for a "smooth" engagement and therefore causes hot spots in the plate. Can you get an example of the noise? It's easier to diagnose with sound over words. I guess the first thing I would look for is loose heat shields.

I think Islandborn has a Corazon hood scoop and still has a FMIC. I think he has a trans/oil cooler in place of the TMIC.

You will clearly see how much material you can take off. My wife was worried about the same, but they seem to need some amount of adjustment either way. Plus, I think you would have to trim them pretty far to have much of an effect on the rigidity of the braces/retainers. I don't know if you have weekends free from work or not, but my wife started them on a Friday after work, so she could get used to how uncomfortable they were before a week of work.