stewdogg

I ended up marring the threads on my most recent ball joint removal on the GT and just used the lip on the ball joint to pry it from the arm. It did take a couple taps from the hammer to get it to finally drop out, but was just as easy as the removal tool. And you know as soon as the new tool gets delivered you will find the old tool somewhere in plain sight.

Thanks cww516 I think I'm about one mph down from my GPS with the new setup. I think the look on the 225 50 18 compared to the 245 40 18 just is going to take a minute to get used to seeing. I can tell it drops the car a little more because the ground seems closer when I try to get out of the car. I'm sure a 245 40 19 or 245 45 18 would be a perfect fit to take away the wheel arch gap, but the slightly smaller size drives a little better and I'm going for a driver more than a looker. Kinda hard to tell if I get much butt dyno out of it because it just seems to rip on the E85 either way. I was coming home from work through downtown last night and got in a little group of tuners. I got up to an open light with them and disappointed the first guy in the bright orange Honda so much that he just kept pulling away from me at about 80mph after I let up at 60mph. I then waited for the Scion and machine gun exhaust VW. Had a little fun gapping them and they paid their respects as I turned off to go home. Thats the kind of fun I'm lookin for. I missed getting to the line with the BMW because he blew the light, but I wouldn't expect him to to go as easy as the other guys. Like I said, just having fun. Oh yeah, I'm still just on the E85 base tune as well.

Why not just use an OEM turbo to J pipe gasket? At least you know it will fit properly. https://www.importimageracing.com/products/subaru-oem-turbo-to-downpipe-gasket-legacy-gt-2010-2012?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo4X3krbt6QIVzcDACh0mVAh_EAQYASABEgKcsvD_BwE The Grimmspeed gasket you listed doesn't have the correct output shape. The studs I went OEM as well. I just called the dealer and had them order the studs and nuts (can't remember the part number off hand). I found that most of the little things were cheaper from Subaru than aftermarket as well. I ordered aftermarket parts from all over for my 5th gen build and got a ton of wrong parts, but through Subaru I got all the correct parts... FWIW. My Invidia J pipe came with a gasket and bolts, so I didn't need to source anything for those. Thanks for the pic!

I got my wheels delivered yesterday after a 3+ week wait. Here's a couple to compare the stock to the new set up. And a couple with the new wheels. I really like how they look and the more I see them the more I like them. The brake calipers were cheaply painted red or orange from the previous owner. I painted the caliper and bracket satin black to make them blend into the background. I wanted to paint them navy blue, but thought better of it. I went with the TSW Bathurst in 18"x8 with 35 offset and Continental DSW06 in 245 40 18. I like that the car sits a bit lower with the 40 profile tire, but I gained a bit of wheel well back. My speedometer is now off about one mph as well. When I checked willtheyfit website it said I was supposed to be almost dead on with stock on my speedo, but I think the 45 profile would have been closer to zero in my car for some reason. I think if I needed to get another tire at some point I would get a 45 profile tire to get rid of the arch gap a bit more and correct the speedo. My stock set up with the 25mm spacers and a 50 profile tire ran real tight in the wheel arch and could have possible have been rolled, but I think I could have also gotten away with it. This stuff is so hard to figure out in the ethos of thought and not actually being able to see it in person. It is certainly a pretty nice looking wheel on the GT.

Did you get the short throw adapter as well? I went with this Kartboy kit and pared it with the Perrin bushing. https://www.kartboy.com/collections/2015-2018-wrx/products/subaru-6-spd-arm-w-bearing The first mod I did and made a ton of difference in the driving experience.

Flamario what size fuel injectors are you using and what intercooler?

How many miles on the plugs that are in the car now? Is it only under throttle or as you let off the throttle as well?

I agree, it's difficult to let someone else work on my cars. At least they made you whole for their mess up. I didn't find any physical damage to either of the rear speed sensors wiring or sensor itself today, so I brought my work computer home and will look a little deeper tomorrow.

Running the Cobb could still help if you just go with the stage 1 tune and don't start beating the crap out of it. You will need it do do most any changes you're talking about. Built block to stage 2 and turbo rebuild/upgrade, like you said. 350ish whp on pump gas: J Pipe Bigger fuel injectors Bigger fuel pump EBCS 3 port (boost controller) Aftermarket blow off valve Bigger intercooler Better clutch (fork and pivot upgrade) Most likely a AOS to deal with the forged pistons and boost pressure. Tomi (or some brand) 1mm head gaskets to deal with the built block and slightly taller piston heads. Gauge and or better O2 sensor for monitoring AFR. Fuel pressure gauge not needed, but allows for finer tuning and control. It comes in handy with the flex fuel kit below. Might as well TGV delete while you're in there as well. Port the turbo waste gate approach, but not the size of the waste gate hole itself. ...what am I forgetting? edit to add: Sti cams ARP head studs I upgraded my valve springs to better deal with the extra time in the higher RPM's. 400ish whp Flex fuel kit and run E85 Our cars are limited by the turbo placement and pretty much top out around 400 whp. The turbo placement gives us a bit more torque than hp, so there's that.

Sounds like the motor is seized up.

The CEL should show an ABS code.

The cruise is flashing as well... It's how you are warned about an error code or check engine light. You need to have your engine codes pulled. I think some parts houses will pull them for free still.

Got my first tank today... I drove around for a bit to let the computer learn some things before giving it a little bit and even on the base tune I can tell the difference from 91 octane and I think I'm gonna like it. Then after some running around I was heading home and got a check engine light, P0500 vehicle speed sensor A. I got this code a couple weeks ago and erased it, it stayed away till today. I did just get the parking brake recall done shortly before this happened, so I will start with the rear speed sensors. I wasn't very impressed with their work. I had a rattle in the rear after taking it in for the recalls too. Sounded like it was in the door, but turned out to be a mounting bracket they didn't mount to the car because they broke the original bolt and just left it on the arm to rattle. I zipped it down with a tie because there wasn't anywhere else to go with it. I won't be surprised to find a messed up sensor after stuff like that. I'll tear into it tomorrow...

Yeah, silver is one of the worst to color match with basically nothing but flake in it. Sometimes to get it to blend they fade into the surrounding panels. Falcor, was someone from the shop driving the Buick?

So, it sounds like you need a little enabling and help justifying a full engine build...? I can say that I had no plans to do a full build, but I'm really enjoying the car so much more since I did. I know it not the fastest car, but it's certainly fun having a sleeper that really seems to sneak up on people. It still drives like a normal LGT unless you run the RPM's up and hammer the gas. It has caught most people off guard that have ridden in it as well. I have my first E85 tune in hand and I'm just waiting for my gas tank to get low enough for the E85 fill up, which should be tomorrow. I'm very curious to see how the corn is different than ethanol free 91. How far down the rabbit hole will your build go?

Yeah, it's beefier than the stock ujoints for sure. I tried pressing the stock bearings out, but it was so small and angled that I ended up bending it a bit on the last one, go figure.

This is what I did with my charge pipe... I had to shave down the plastic on the fan guard a bit to get it to fit and it's tight, but it works fine. I have been running it about 5,000miles with no issues. I'm pushing 20lbs of boost right now and going to be filling up with E85 this weekend and I'm thinking we will be turning up the boost a little bit more. I hope the stock plastic flange holds up! What are the benefits to the vert cooler over the stock TMIC?

Looks like the seal in one or more of the bearings let loose. It doesn't mean it's dry now, but will eventually because now moisture can get in and lube can get out. The driveshaft is really easy to remove, just remove 4 small nuts/bolts at the rear diff, two bolts at the half shaft carrier bearing and slide it out. Then move the joints to see their condition. I'm sure it will be fine till you notice some vibration, I just like to know before it's an issue. I replaced my drive shaft because I had a small amount of driveline vibration, when I removed the driveshaft the u joints were pretty dry and really notchy. I also tried a Cardone driveshaft, but it had a worse vibration than the bad one I was taking out. I ended up with the Dorman driveshaft and I think it is a superior product to the Cardone shaft. Towards the bottom of the page in this thread, I have some pics comparing the three driveshafts. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stewdoggs-2010-gt-269205p18.html

I ran a set of 25mm spacers on stock wheels, that I purchased from Sarang. I'm lowered on Eibach springs(1") and with the car fully loaded with 4 adults and hitting the right bumps I would scrape the outer fender. It wouldn't happen much, but enough to think about rolling the fenders. It does look just about perfect though. The one thing I did notice was that all 4 corners aren't at the same height. The driver's front sat the lowest and would rub the most. Although, I would hear the rears rub every once in a while as well. Here's some pics comparing them.

It's difficult to see from the pics, but it seems like someone might have cleaned them up already. I don't see the normal heat and wear marks from a set of used cams. I paid about $150 for my set of 2011 STi cams off of Ebay, just to give a little price reference.

Yeah, TSW has them listed as an even 18lbs for the 18"x8" that I got. Over 7lbs lighter than the stock wheels! Bummer it's gonna take till the end of the month to get them here...

I finally pulled the trigger on a set of wheels tonight, the TSW Bathurst in gloss gunmetal and Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 tires. I got the wheels in 18"x8" 35 and tires in a 245/40/18. I'm excited to get these! I haven't treated myself to a set of new wheels/tires in many... many years. I decided to try to act closer to my age and get something that blended in better than copper or bronze. Now the wait begins... I did get the windows tinted today as well, but it was far too dirty to take a pic to prove it. I went with 35% in the rear and 50% in the front, which is the legal limit in WI. It looks great, but I think 30% all around would look better.

Thanks coco, I was wondering about the extreme contact sports. I think I'll just stick with the DW06's I had originally thought of. I want to get these things ordered, so I can wait the 2-3 weeks for delivery... some people seem to be spending their stimulus checks on their cars... Fitment Industries stopped taking orders for the month because they are so back logged... damn!

Anyone have any good suggestions for tires? I'm not going to be using the car in the snow, so I don't need all season tires. I would like something with decent wear and grip. I will be doing spirited driving and don't plan on tracking the car at this point. I was looking at the Continental DWS06, but it's an all season and I'm not sure if that matters at all for my needs or if there's a better option. I would like to stick around that $700 dollar mark for the tires.

I mean it wasn't supposed to be, but this car turned into a race car, so I'll be joining you with the 245/40 18's. I'm hoping I notice the lighter wheel a bit. The stockers are around 25.4lbs and the TSW's are 18lbs... I hope the 7+lbs lighter makes a little difference.