stewdogg

Hey hatch'd, how much tint is on those windows? Looks good! Getting back to the car after hitting the store and had to take a pic.

Did you pull those inner flaps off of the throttle body coupler on both sides and then reattach the coupler to the car?

Sounds like an overboost condition to me. The ECM cuts boost like a hammer when it happens. I had it happen to mine and it was abrupt. I would double check to see if all the hoses to and from the turbo are hooked up and not cracked. If you lose one of those it could easily cause an overboost issue... ask me how I know... I would still look into the throttle body coupler because there's been a lot of them messed up around here and can create a boost issue under load. Check out the pic in this thread. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stewdoggs-2010-gt-269205p14.html You just pull those end pieces off the coupler pipe.

Is it falling flat on it's face around 4k and WOT or is it stumbling or just not hitting target boost? I'm thinking the classic rubber boots between the intake and intercooler might be leaking. At 100k they could be getting funky and cracked.

Here's a quick pick under the hood of my GT and my AWIC. As always, click on the pic to see things more clearly. A closer pic of the dump side. I'll put some more pics in my build thread and explain the set up and install in more detail.

Let me know when you are getting ready to move on selling the car. I'm looking into shipping (could you PM me your zip for shipping quotes) and a used engine. Starting to think that maybe getting rid of the stock trans before I lose money on it might not be a bad idea... I think the devil is on my shoulder again.

FLlegacy is correct, I will take some pics during the day tomorrow and put them in my build thread and in here. I think I maybe have an install video of the cooler install and my air oil separator install as well. I'll have to dig that stuff up and finally put it in my build thread. I did have to tap into the cooling system for the IAG air oil separator...

I put a AWIC in my GT that I put together from the frozen boost site, thanks to Sarang dropping in a post of mine about intercooler setups. Sure it's a bit more complicated and certainly has more moving parts than a A2A setup, but they are both probably just as difficult to install as the other, once you're in that deep anyway. I used the AWIC because I didn't want to cut away any of the bumper support to fit the FMIC between the bumper and there are more size/shape options for the heat exchanger with AWIC over the FMIC setup. I haven't seen any ill effects from using it and it far outperforms my TMIC. I never noticed the heat effecting the performance over the summer, at least no more than normal. How does it compare to a FMIC on our cars... IDK? I never heard anything from Dave at Cryo about the car during tuning and it pulls like crazy... I slipped the tires in second gear yesterday pulling from a stop sign with some other fun cars. Had me grinning big time after that. Plus, it looks different under the hood than most GT's out there. I also used some extra 3" silicone tubing to make a snorkel to get cooler air to the box from under the car.

Yeah, mine won't see the salt around here anymore either. Kinda like being in a salt free state. I don't even take it out in the rain as much anymore either... kinda ridiculous.

If you want the info from the sensor to go through your AP, you need to wire it to the O2 or TGV. You tuner would then be able to see the info in the logs. If you just hook up the sensor to the gauge in the car then you would need to record the info on the gauge in the car with a camera and send that with your logs to the tuner.

Sucks to hear! Seems like you don't get very much time with the smiles before you have to do major work and start tossing money at it. I really like my 5th gen GT, but it has proven to be a pain in the wallet. I wasn't planning on building mine till it broke then, before I knew it I was in a bunch of time and money. It has been that way ever since then as well. What would you be looking to get out of the car? How is the rust on the car? I'm having bad thoughts of moving my power plant into your car and throwing a used engine in mine to sell and recoup some cash... that doesn't seem like a very rational thought process.

Those plugs do look oddly orange. Did you check the gap on the plugs? I looked through the log and it doesn't look like your knock is related to boost and your fine knock and knock aren't coming on with your boost either. I forgot, are you getting a check engine light? I would reset the computer (have you done that yet?) and maybe check and clean your grounds. Seems like a funky issue that may be resolved with a restart of the parameters.

That is indeed the cylinder layout.

I leave the air box and battery in and just scratch up my hands and forearms. Although, I'm not so sure removing them would make that much difference in the amount of beating the hands take. I pulled my plugs two days ago to see how things were running and now have the little reminders all over my hands. Good luck this weekend! I hope you have somewhere decent to work on it.

I agree, you need to look for a boost leak. Stop thinking the turbo is shot and concentrate on a boost leak. A bad turbo isn't really a thing on the 5th gens (that I have seen) and if they do go it's usually the bearings. Have you looked around to see if anything is apparently out of place with the turbo system? There are a handful of things that seem to create a boost leak in these cars, that others have experienced around here as well. I would start looking at those things and go from there. Maybe you can find it without taking it to someone? I go through this with my car once in a while and have to figure it out. I monitor fine knock learn, feedback knock and DAM (with 3 others that don't matter for this). Seems like with a boost leak I have seen the fine knock creep up when hitting any kind of boost. How long have you driven the car with low DAM? I always stop driving mine when the DAM drops, till I figure out the issue. In the very least I stay out of boost and that is difficult, so not the best option for me. Can you do any of the work yourself? I kinda feel like you have to do some of your own work on a higher mile turbo car. It's already too much money for the go fast and look pretty parts.

I wouldn't hesitate to get a re manufactured starter. They are simple devices to rebuild. I guess the question is do you have more time or money? Why no rebuilt starters for you Alex?

Is the Invidia down pipe and exhaust the only upgrades you have? All stock other than that? Seem to me like all your issues are coming from the same place. Any check engine lights on? Any abnormal engine noise?

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/easy-5th-gen-gt-boost-leak-test-255163.html?t=255163&highlight=test+boost+leak That link should help you test for boost leak. Did you do a visual in the engine bay and under the car to make sure nothing is disconnected or out of place?

I tried to get a stand for my tile saw and the two Harbor Freight's in town were out, but one an hour away said they had three in stock. I drove down to grab one and they were the display stands... can I buy one? No, you can't buy one of these, sorry. The guy tells me, looks like there is one in stock 40 miles from here... no thanks, I'm sure it's not in stock there either. I have been finding that in a lot of places with a lot of things right now. Try going to your local Cabela's, Shield's, Gander Mtn, etc right now and see what they have for hand gun stock. Everywhere around here and online is out of stock of a lot of things. I did find a couple good used guns at the local mom and pop shops. One other thing that is very difficult to find right now is 9mm rounds. They have two 50 box limits per house hold per day at the big name places around here. Online is out all over the place as well... crazy! I think the ammo issue is a problem with hoarding and not with supply, but I don't really know. I guess with a lot of manufacturing places closing in April/May the supply chain is behind and I have been told by some vendors at work that there has been some issues with getting the delivery drivers needed to get the goods where they need to go on time. It has been strange for sure.

Can you tell throttle position/percentage when it happens? What do the fuel trims look like when if falls on its face? Do you record a log of it happening? Can you view all the items in a graph? Makes it easier to identify events. How many miles on the car now?

What do you mean by cut out for a second? Like all power gone or revs like in neutral? When I hit overboost it was like hitting a brick wall (scared the shit out of me) and I also got a check engine light/overboost code. I was in the middle of tuning and Dave had the max limit set low to protect things. Once it got that turned up I didn't see any overboost issues. I've had the wastegate close on me when waiting too long to hit boost while in the throttle. That was a good loss of power, but not like the overboost issue I had, that was a much worse reaction. Once I got out of boost range and hit the gas again everything was back to normal. Can you continually replicate the issue?

I have been trying to wave at more and more STi's/WRX's and all I seem to get back is a confused look without a wave. Maybe I need a giant SUBARU sticker across the front of my windshield to let them know I'm friendly.

As long as it works! I don't use sharpie because it's too easy for me to wipe off and lose my mark. If i don't use a punch/chisel I use a paint pen/marker because even if I wipe it off there will still be something there. I suppose if you are replacing the strut you can mark the bolt at 9 o clock and then mark the knuckle as well. Either way, as long as you know the way these things work together, you can come up with a way that works for you.

Dr D123 already linked you to the 5th gen koni thread and he also linked the walk through for the strut rebuild from a 4th gen in the first couple posts of this thread. That 4th gen thread is what I used for a reference while I built mine. The eccentric bolt is what holds the camber for the top part of the front suspension. The lower control arm front and rear bushings are what control the bottom camber in the car. If you're pulling the front struts out you need to mark the location of the top bolt of the two bolts on the bottom of the strut. The bottom bolt doesn't have any adjustment to it, so you can take it out without marking it. Mark it by hitting with a chisel and get a mark on the bolt and strut to be able to line up that same location when you reassemble. How much wrenching experience do you have? Cutting those struts takes a little faith in your abilities for sure, but if you're tenacious enough you will be just fine.

I changed the fog lights film covers from a tint color to yellow today. I felt it needed a little color in the front end with all that darkness. I'm really enjoying the new wheels!