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creep_nu

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Posts posted by creep_nu

  1. took it apart again, finally getting a 2o code on the self-diagnostic check thing through the air box.  it took me longer to get all the door pins in their right slots on the module than it did to remove the dash the 2nd time...figured out the trick was to have the screws holding the module in loose, hit the mode buttons, and just kinda....finagle the module around until everything clicked in and works.  took me damn near 2 hours to figure that out...took an hour to rip the dash out and another to put it back in.  smh.  but, air works now, heat's better than ever...but it still doesn't blow cold.  that's a problem for next spring.

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  2. welp...ended up pulling the dash.  it was actually rather easy, just tedious.  only 2 different types of screws holding the whole dang thing in.  coarse thread for going in to plastic, fine threads for going in to j-nuts or metal.  i thought i had the mix door in right, tested it out and i *thought* everything was working.  it...was not.  i've got no air to the defroster or feet.  so, looks like i'll be removing it again.  given my long arms I was able to get a screwdriver in there to remove the module (after removing the CAN stuff under the dash to get some clearance), but i personally wasn't able to finagle it back into its home and get the screws in so i just ripped the dash out instead.  still couldn't get it in its home apparently but here we are....

     

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    PXL_20230902_125856474.jpg

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  3. On 8/22/2023 at 1:04 PM, Falcor said:

    I probably should replace mine, but not sure if I'm ready to tackle it.

    it's really easy, took me maybe 45 min?  just have a good shorty phillips screwdriver and a good pick set to unclip the 18 individual harnesses in the parking brake assembly thingy and you're good to go.  the P/N for 5th gen is 72131AJ10A.  the top screw is a little annoying to get back in since you gotta kinda feel it in a tight area with no visibility, but once the module is in its tabs everything kinda lines up and the screw should go in no prob

  4. only done it once because i got ahold of a lot of cheap sound deadening, but...i made sure I didn't cover anything i'd need access to.  put it on the door skins, the floor, trunk, spare wheel well etc, but never covered up any wires(routed them on top if need be) or closed any holes up like on the door frame.  worked well to quiet down my impreza...could have been better i suppose if i really attacked the doors, but i was worried about the same thing--ease of servicability.  

     

    might want to just try something like that, cover stuff that's out of the way and not covering anything, and if it's not enough, explore from there

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  5. 17 hours ago, Falcor said:

    I have not tried that. Didn't feel like pulling the front bumper off last night. 😀

    Thankfully the turn signal switch is only around $40.

    lol understand, as easy as it is to remove it's an enormous PITA.  personally, whenever something pops up on one side and not the other, if i can, i switch sides to see if the issue follows, helps pin-point issues.  but hey, $40 for a new switch ain't too bad

  6. i'm not one that usually agrees with big corporations, or follow the leader and not thinking outside the box.  With the automotive field being so competitive and everyone doing everything they can to eke out that little extra power, or lower emissions, or whatever, but...if there was any actual advantage to them, whether power, fuel economy, emissions, ease of tuning(???), whatever the manufacturers tout, then they'd be used in every single engine since their introduction.  Nobody uses e3 plugs, and nobody uses these plugs.  So, what.  Spend a bunch of money on a plug that is *maybe* equal in performance to the OEM plug, or maybe inferior?  don't make sense to me.

  7. Put in the sun sensor, no change.  Gonna rent a set of gauges and see if the charge is low, and ordering the mode door actuator.  still shocking to me that everything went wrong all at once...doesn't make any sense to me...

     

     

    And to add insult to injury...went to take the car out this evening and came on a flat tire.  Pumped it up and found the valve steam is deadsoes/leaking from where it comes through the wheel.  So.  Hooray. Add a new TPMS to the total.  I..am having a bad month with this car.

  8. 1 hour ago, Falcor said:

    The sun sensor was dead on the GT when I bought it. So I swapped in the working one from my Outback. It does affect the AC, esp the auto AC in the Limited. 

    good to hear...here's hoping my diagnoses so far are correct, i'm hoping that sensor fixes it all, i don't wanna start up the parts cannon on this car...these sensors and motors get expensive fast...

     

    add on the new front struts and brakes/rotors all around for my daily and this has become an expensive car maintenance month...still beats the hell out of a car payment though 😆😆

  9. i have never used the auto headlights since they're known to blow bulbs and the sensor, so...i don't know if they work correctly or not haha.  i haven't checked the charge, but the passenger side blows cold so i'm leaning away from that.  when i did the climate control self-diagnosis it gave me codes 45 and 49, which point to the sunload sensor and the mode door...but the modes change without any weird noises or anything, so i'm hoping just the sensor...thanks for the reminder on the TSB, i'll check on that and perform if necessary.

  10. been having issues with my AC, drivers side blowing warm when passenger side is cold.  watched and verified the blend door actuator wasn't working so replaced that.  didn't fix the problem, though the air does now change between hot and what should be cold now, it's just not cold.  found some diagnostic steps and found both the mode door actuator and the sunlight sensor are both bad now apparently too...changing the light sensor since it's easy first to see if that somehow magically fixes the mode door...doubtful but hey...

     

    so, in a nutshell, my whole AC system died and i'm replacing it and i don't like it haha

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