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creep_nu

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Posts posted by creep_nu

  1. i know a couple people have removed theirs for konis...from what i gathered from old posts they're over damped and over sprung so they're not particularly comfortable.  great for handling, bad for comfort.  @Scubaboo removed his as far as i can recall.  i'd like to hear more experience too, i keep seeing good sets for a reasonable price and am curious...my lady needs new shocks and they've got my itching

  2. been happening to mine for a few years...hood, a pillars, roof.  subaru's never been known for their paint quality, but i've never seen laquer peel like on this gen.  definitely is quite sad, but i don't have the funds for a whole new paint job so....i've just learned to live with it.  you can do some at home fixes, but...eh. 

    • Sad 1
  3. 20 hours ago, Brunzo said:

    If remember correctly, it needs wiring to central lock, but i dont remember for sure. I purchased this unit and forgot where i put it, so i never installed. Other people said its easy. You just need to buy the correct one

    kew kew thanks...pics looks like it has an in/out for the harness but we'll see...haven't ordered yet but it seems super handy

  4. On 12/24/2023 at 12:00 PM, dgoodhue said:

    I wan't planning on using GT as a winter beater so I could put my '12 GT away. I was planning on buying a new Legacy Sport with the down payment from 20210 GT.  I just wasn't able to sell it, either the 2010 GT prices are very low or they are afraid of the miles/new motor. I started off last December / January at $9500 / 9000. I had a couple inquiries at that point We had snow and it was unregister/insuranced, so I decided to wait until the spring.  I put iy up for sale in May for $8250, but my son had some medial issues and they didn't get resolved until September. so I put it on hold (but I had no inquiries either).  I put it for sale in September/ October / November for 8250 / 7500 / 7000.  On Black Friday, I figure since no one was willing to give me a price in the 6's that I might as well use it. I didn't want to rush into buying another car. I am sure if I lower the price further, someone will buy it.  It is a good car, it lot more fun to drive than my other winter beater, 2009 2.5i 4EAT Outback.

     

     

    hope everything's good with the kid...but hey, if nobody wants it for a reasonable price i see absolutely no reason not to enjoy it.  a decently rare, manual turbo sportish sedan is a pretty niche market at this point.  the person that wants it will seek it out and pay what it's worth, don't shoot yourself in the foot.  we all know you put a ton of time and effort in to the vehicle, get what it's worth.

    • Like 1
  5. 3 hours ago, silverton said:

    It is head gasket failure and a good mechanic would have known that before charging you $1500 for diagnostics and a slew of parts. The tip off is that it will idle and stay at temp (where you say it never goes higher than 208 attached to a computer) but then over heats after 7 miles.  Textbook head gasket failure.

     

    yeah, it's a textbook issue on a car that it's a known issue for...i don't want to diss on the mechanic because it may be presenting abnormally, but...subaru overheating and a general guess of head gaskets you're gonna be right 9 times out of 10.  nobody wants to throw the heavy fix out to a customer, but...it's a known issue and you and the owner should be prepared for it.

     

    OP if you want a new car, i'd really look at what's out there for....6k...you're not going to get much of anything for a car that needs head gaskets, so...whatever the repair price is plus whatever you can get for your car if what you're gonna be spending....175k mile camry?  or 62k mile subaru that'll be good for another 100k...

  6. 14 hours ago, Falcor said:

    I’m hoping he helps out some. Not getting my hopes up though. The dealership ended up giving me a loaner. The timing belt was damaged and had to be replaced. So, two timing belts in 2k miles. 😑 The belt guides were loose and a few other parts were loose. I’m having them make sure to spell this out so I can take it to the local shop.

    Grand total will be right about $1500 for diagnostics and install of the new belt.

    sheesh, lucky that nothing happened to the valves...are they replacing the tensioner, idlers and everything as well as a precaution?  good luck with the shop, they don't like to pay anything back out

  7. 5 hours ago, motorbreath said:

    Well, I recently made the very poor decision to replace both the inner and outer tie rods, since my outer ones were starting to have some play in them and so why not replace both... This was a really stupid decision because in my desperation to get to the inner part of the steering rack boots, both for removal and installation, I ended up over extended the rack on the drivers side and damaging the internal seals.

    Now for many of you this seems like a completely idiotic thing to do, but I did it. Not sure how bad the drivers side is leaking into the newly installed boot, but I am likely looking at some serious $$$ to get this fixed since I am pretty sure you need to drop the subframe to repair the steering rack.

     

     

    always seems that the easiest jobs make for the worst and costliest mistakes...good luck buddy don't beat yourself up too bad, i ended up having to replace the full hard brake line after breaking it trying to do a dang brake job on an old car...ish happens.

    • Like 1
  8. 15 hours ago, kattz said:

    I will post the build when it happens. I still need to do some more healing from my neurosurgeon screwing up. And so it might be late next year before this happens. Also have a engine coming so that I can 3D print the headers for it and test fit them and then send it to the header shop. And I need the heads for the new motor when we do that in 3 years. There is an awful lot of work to do and there's just me.

    damn you've got a *lot* in the works.  gonna be a fun one to watch.  hope everything heals up soon for ya

    • Like 1
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