creep_nu

i woulda gotten upset with the wrong picture too, want it to match the passenger side. and brunzo......link to that module? i'd love auto on all

womp womp...hopefully it's just the o2, cats ain't fun

concur...alternator...if you live in a cold environment i'd invest in the new battery as well, but if you live in a warm climate i'd maybe skip it if funds are low. alternator's right on top of the engine and is super easy to change out yourself

ah jeez, that's so sad. glad you're safe and have a comfy new ride. Comes a time for everyone to move on to something different whether by accident or by choice, but either way it happens, it's never easy. good luck with the new ride, and don't forget about us little folks with the old cars!

hope everything's good with the kid...but hey, if nobody wants it for a reasonable price i see absolutely no reason not to enjoy it. a decently rare, manual turbo sportish sedan is a pretty niche market at this point. the person that wants it will seek it out and pay what it's worth, don't shoot yourself in the foot. we all know you put a ton of time and effort in to the vehicle, get what it's worth.

i love that the solution for a winter beater for your GT is another GT. glad you got her up and running and everything's working itself out

yeah, it's a textbook issue on a car that it's a known issue for...i don't want to diss on the mechanic because it may be presenting abnormally, but...subaru overheating and a general guess of head gaskets you're gonna be right 9 times out of 10. nobody wants to throw the heavy fix out to a customer, but...it's a known issue and you and the owner should be prepared for it. OP if you want a new car, i'd really look at what's out there for....6k...you're not going to get much of anything for a car that needs head gaskets, so...whatever the repair price is plus whatever you can get for your car if what you're gonna be spending....175k mile camry? or 62k mile subaru that'll be good for another 100k...

oh that's most excellent! glad it worked out for ya. hope that pesky 0420 doesn't come back

sheesh, lucky that nothing happened to the valves...are they replacing the tensioner, idlers and everything as well as a precaution? good luck with the shop, they don't like to pay anything back out

ruh roh...didn't you just have your tbelt and stuff done recently?

they always look so sad on flatbeds...hope everything's alright!

i dunno if anyone else has done some swaps, so might be nice to hear...i'm not on FB or any of the other forums, so might be a wealth of newer information around

hasn't been touched in a few years but this is all the info that is on here about hubs

p0420 could also just be an o2 sensor...i'd get a 2nd opinion. i definitely wouldn't put an OEM cat on the car

always seems that the easiest jobs make for the worst and costliest mistakes...good luck buddy don't beat yourself up too bad, i ended up having to replace the full hard brake line after breaking it trying to do a dang brake job on an old car...ish happens.

damn you've got a *lot* in the works. gonna be a fun one to watch. hope everything heals up soon for ya

uh oh, this is either gonna be very good or very bad

get the car scanned and see what codes come up...can't do much without that. probably a sensor or something broke or didn't get plugged back in

lol ain't wrong ain't wrong...hope the new one works out for ya

if it were me...used OEM ones are all over ebay for $40. i know used parts aren't everyone's bag though, and if it works it works, i just trust the manufacturer more than whichever company stamps them out

have friends, coworkers, whatever not understanding why i keep investing money in my older cars...even if i have to drop $2k/yr on average which is way high, that's what...4? 5 months of car payments? less nowadays? still way cheaper in the long run, and i like my old stuff.

took it apart again, finally getting a 2o code on the self-diagnostic check thing through the air box. it took me longer to get all the door pins in their right slots on the module than it did to remove the dash the 2nd time...figured out the trick was to have the screws holding the module in loose, hit the mode buttons, and just kinda....finagle the module around until everything clicked in and works. took me damn near 2 hours to figure that out...took an hour to rip the dash out and another to put it back in. smh. but, air works now, heat's better than ever...but it still doesn't blow cold. that's a problem for next spring.

welp...ended up pulling the dash. it was actually rather easy, just tedious. only 2 different types of screws holding the whole dang thing in. coarse thread for going in to plastic, fine threads for going in to j-nuts or metal. i thought i had the mix door in right, tested it out and i *thought* everything was working. it...was not. i've got no air to the defroster or feet. so, looks like i'll be removing it again. given my long arms I was able to get a screwdriver in there to remove the module (after removing the CAN stuff under the dash to get some clearance), but i personally wasn't able to finagle it back into its home and get the screws in so i just ripped the dash out instead. still couldn't get it in its home apparently but here we are.... i

subarus generally have internal head gasket failure too, where combustion gasses get in to the coolant rather than external with oil and coolant mixing. doesn't mean it doesn't happen though, and any car can develop HG leaks. i'd think if it was the trans cooler it'd be a strawberry milkshake, but i've never played with CVT fluid so i don't know what color it is

blacked out grill looks great on there, and this is such an underrated color in general, car looks great