tornichoe

Depending on how cold your talking sure. In the dead of winter when it is in the single digits, mine sometimes never even comes up to the middle even after 15-20 miles of driving. The 15-17s take ~5 minutes for the heat to come on after a cold start. The electric element, if its real, is a nice feature actually

I was greeted to a burnt JDM astar led DRL+turn signal thing I installed Oct 2017... two years was decent life I’d expect out of a $20 bulb pair; but not to burn and melt. I was lucky that it didn’t damage the housing. Was a pain in the neck to get the half that fell into the headlamp assembly; but I got it out. Back to stock bulbs for now! This how it should be https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191112/aba250cb2f1c7ea46e47688eaaf423d8.jpg' alt='aba250cb2f1c7ea46e47688eaaf423d8.jpg'> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The question to ask yourself is how often will you be driving in fresh snow of a foot or more. If the answer is rarely, you'll do fine. Once you've had some traffic make a path (even if it's not plowed) and compact/push the snow aside, you'll just be driving on top of it. The problem usually is when you need to make the path...

Had to jump start this morning. It's a bitch to realize that you left the dome light ON! They got to have auto off timers on these little monsters

The one thing I can think of, you may not have the GPS antenna which, if I'm not mistaken, is somewhere behind that gauges. It's really not worth the swap, and that's probably why you don't see much info online of folks that have done this. Even if you got one for a couple of hundred bucks. If you want latest maps, you'll need to get the one time update for $50 or 3 year for $120 next year from subaru's 3rd party map guys. If I were you, I'd get a garmin with lifetime map updates.

Why? just curious and want to expand my knowledge

The air bag, I think is covered beyond the standard warranty. Not sure if it is 5 or 8 years and unlimited miles. Take it to the dealer, they should be able to take care of it.

I've had decent luck with the rain-x bug wash specific fluid. I use that from spring to mid fall and then switch over to the all weather rain-x and over to the rain-x de-icer stuff by December. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rain-X-Bug-Remover-Windshield-Washer-Fluid/17179629

Thanks for the info. Switched mine up today

After reading up a bit on the stainless steel hardware; apparently they are there to allow the pads to easily spring away from the rotor when brake pressure is not applied which prevents over heating and the pads from wearing too soon. Don't know the factual basis of this, but there were quiet a few articles that popped up when I did a quick search. Thinking of the rust gunk that was all over the caliper brackets that I had cleaned away and the surface of the bracket itself being rough, I figured it could very well be the case a few thousand miles down the road. Put the stuff in during lunch and breaks between meetings today. Needed a bit of patience, but its all done now

After the break in procedure

Finally got around to installing the rotors and pads this past weekend. What I thought was going to take me a day ended up taking me two and a little. Posting this write up here, so it'll hopefully help the next person. Friday: Took a quick peek behind the front brake to check the socket sizes. Made the run to home depot to pick up the final things I thought I needed - Vinil tube for bleeding the brakes, 8 thru 12 mm wrenches Prepare my fancy one person brake fluid bleeder kit with an old milk can. Later in the evening, after getting off work ~4, I decided I was going to start with the passenger rear side. I knew I was going to have surprises (to me) once I took things apart; that way I could make the second store run at night if I needed to. Bleeding worked out great with the 10 mm wrench. The fluid didn't look too bad. Took me a little but to figure out how to get the dust cover off to access the caliper slider pins. Once that came out, I found that the caliper pins on the rears use a hex key. Luckily I had a hex socket set from my ducati days Once the caliper was out and hung to the side, started with the caliper bracket which were 14 mm bolts, and the little 3/8" to 1/4" adapter for my socket wrench snapped. Those bolts were on pretty solid. At this point I was a couple of hours in and it was getting dark, so I called it a night. Saturday ~10 am: Make myself some coffee and go for the planned home depot run. Return the wrenches I didn't need and picked up the 14 mm 3/8" and 1/2" sockets. Was able to get my long 1/2" wrench in there and get the bolts to turn. The rest was pretty straight forward. Cleaned up the rust on the brackets and hub. applied anti-seize lube on the hub and put everything back together. Now that I got one done; I felt confident the other 3 will go faster. After lunch, I get the driver side rear done; easy-peezy this time Took me probably an hour ish to bleed, clean and put it back together. Move to the fronts now, and there was my next set of surprises. The caliper bracket was not a 14 mm bolt! And the 17-1521 pads that came in the kit were not the right ones (even after confirming with powerstop customer care earlier in the week); Luckily I had the 17-1078 I got for the OB and those did fit. Get the calipers out on both sides, bleed the lines and called it a night; the pistons were really rusty Out for drinks after a long day Sunday ~11 am: Start off with the regular homedepot run. Pick up 15 thru 18 sockets and get going. Another surprise awaited There was another bolt in the way and I needed a 17 mm deep socket Second homedepot run; returned the other sizes and picked up the deep socket and a 3" extension bar just in case. The deep socket worked and I got the bracket off, cleaned it all up and started putting the driver side together. I couldn't for the life of me get the stainless steel hardware that came to fit, so I left them out. In between all of this I did the oil change and changed the engine and cabin air filters. At about 4 I was all done and set for the break in process. The rotors did get pretty hot and smelly after. All in all ~20 miles and 2 days in, they feel good and I still feel sore from sitting on the concrete garage floor on my shins and knees. Stuff I forgot or left out: loctite on the caliper bracket bolts. Will need to check on them when I pull the wheels off for the winter set switch. But they were on pretty solid, don't think its a big deal. Stainless steel hardware on the fronts. didn't have the patience at the time. Will need to figure out what real purpose they serve and if I need to put them back in. What would I do differently: Get a freaking yoga mat for the garage Rockauto confirmed that they had the wrong part for the legacy front pads on their site and will be sending those back. For reference future reference, the power stop 1521 style pads don't fit either the 15 Legacy 2.5 Limited or the 16 3.6 R Outback. Thought the fronts were different between the 2.5 and 3.6 models, but I couldn't really narrow down what that is. Subaru parts have different part numbers for the front rotors and pads between the two, but power stop says they are interchangeable...

It uses both your headlight state and the time/time zone to figure out the time of sunset. When your parking/head lights are ON, it dims the display so its not too bright and switches from the day color scheme to the night color scheme at sunset. Since you already figured out the day and night screen settings, the only other thing I can think of is that your clock/time zone are not set appropriately to where you are. Ex: Your timezone is set to Hawaii but you are on the east coast, it wouldn't switch to the night screen till about midnight.

Couple of noobie doing a brake job for the first time questions; Assuming that I slide the flat plate from the back and stick the adapter on the front. The little sheet that came in the box said #7 adapter for subaru, I'll confirm this after I take the caliper out. And as confirmed by ammcinnis, turn clockwise to get the plunger back in; I'd use the RH. Also, the POWER STOP CRK7357 kit came with front pads PN:161521 (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4293483&jsn=__GIP__4) Looking at the details, it shows the pad thickness to be 17.30mm Does anyone know if this is the right pad for the MY15Legacy 2.5 Limited? Reason I ask is because I ordered pads for my MY16 Outback 3.6R Ltd as well, and those pads were PN: POWER STOP 171078 and their site shows these to be 16.40 mm thick (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4292643&cc=3338258&jsn=40) And the shape and size of both sets of pads are the same. Thought the 3.6s came with bigger front brakes than the 2.5 and I found it odd that the pad thickness on the 2.5 would be larger than the 3.6. Trying to make sure I got the right parts before I take things apart and they don't all fit. Will be calling RockAuto tomorrow to confirm, would appreciate if someone here has some insights

That's a cool looking rotor Just ordered the POWER STOP CRK7357 Z17 Evolution Geomet® Coated Brake Kit from Rockauto. Should show up next week and probably install it in the beginning of November to match the switch over to winters.

Took measurements of the rotors and they read 30.6/30mm on the fronts and 17.2mm on the rears. The usable range is 30-28 and 17-15. Debating if I should hand sand them (just to remove old wear patterns), slap on a set of powerstop ceramic pads for under 70 bucks and call it a day!

I've seen the estimate show 630 after filling up after a full tank of highway driving which got me ~550 miles to the tank.

Tire rack reviews show them not to be that great in the noise department, which matches your experience. Don't think it has to do with the tire size but the tire compound/ thread pattern itself https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Sport+Maxx+RT

Thanks for the replies. Wasn't really looking for a performance improvement. I know I got a Legacy and not a wrx The reason I was looking outside factory was to have less brake dust and a cheaper option. Even the POWER STOP CRK7357 Evolution Geomet® Coated Kit for both axles was $199 at rockauto (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10467928&jsn=2793) vs the subaru parts store price of ~$550 If I was doing the job myself, I get new rotors and pads for 200 bucks. I'm going to take measurements of the rotors tomorrow, but at 200 bucks and having everything open, I'm thinking I'll just change the rotors too...

I know a good number of folks have changed out from stock rotors/pads. I'm looking for some feedback on how you like them over stock/Napa brake set I'm looking at Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Upgrade Kits K7357 Which is ~$300 bucks for rotors and pads at all 4 corners EBC red stuff pads which are ~$100 bucks for the rear set. They don't show having either rotors or front pads for the H4 The full set of OEMs from Subaru is $550. So I was leaning towards the Z23 evolution kit. 1. How much noisier does it get with the Z23s being cross drilled? 2. Are you happy with the upgrade or do you think it may not have been the right choice? 3. Any other options to consider? If I want to keep cost low, I am also contemplating a swapparoo between the legacy and OB rear pads. Move the Legacy's rear pads (~15000 mi) over to the OB which has 3mm left; upgrade the legacy rear pads to the power stop now; and do the full brake job on the OB once the front's are toast as well (5mm left) and upgrade the rotors and pads on the legacy at a later time. Am I over thinking this? Is there an obvious downside to moving a set of pads from one set of rotors to another which I'm overlooking, other that the wear pattern on the pad being different and eating up a little more pad in the beginning before it sets to the other rotor?

Pop the side panel off; there is lower dash piece that has the ODB II connector that comes down first, then the panel with the switches.

They said 2.5 hrs labor@$130/hr + ~$150 for the pads. He said they would look at the rotors and see if they needed resurfacing; The $650 was probably if they were doing the resurfacing. I was baffled by the fact that they wanted to charge me 2.5 hrs labor since they already had the car in for replacing all 4 tires... Can't imagine it taking 2.5 hrs for the service tech to slap on pads. Thanks! I was going to grab one of these instead of fumbling around with a snap ring pliers. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FW3U26G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1R5RH6SRZN4Q4&psc=1

I just got quoted $500 - $650 to change the rear pads by our beloved steelership for the Outback ; yep you read that right, just the pads.. So I'll be doing the brake job myself and probably just take it to a shop for the fluid flush. I'm thinking the 3mm should get me through the winter (~5k miles) in the worst case if I'm not able to get to it in the next month before it starts to get chilly. can anyone that has done their own rotors and pads comment on the time it took you per wheel? Any gotcha's I should look out for, other than disconnecting the battery, EPB unplug and turning the EPB actuator in?

Looking to see what's available on the forum. Don't necessarily want to pay full price at the dealer for a 4 year old car... PN H001SAL100 or I see H001SAL101 as a new version; not sure what the difference is or if they changed something for '18/'19; but looking for the one that works with the 15-17 MY Thanks!