tornichoe

Pretty much the same thing; with a case. wifi has been working well on channel 1 so far. Will need to see how it holds up in the cold and snow.

That's an interesting idea. The issue with the CO sensor or the light method is that there is no way to know if the garage door opened, and if it did, if it stays open. Since the homelink operates via the same button to open and close, you'd have to add in a timer deactivation so it doesn't send secondary high signals. Especially with the light option; think the lights flash when the remote start signal is received, then flash again to signal that it has started and then stay on. It would be pretty cool though if done right. Set the light sensor deactivation timer to say 30 seconds less than the remote start cycle you have; and it would open the garage door start the car and close the garage door right before the car shuts off

Thanks for that info. I already have the wi-fi extender that's connected to the socket on the porch facing the direction of the garage. Had to go with the Linksys RE4100W, as that was the only one that I could fit into the exterior weather protected socket housing. The ones with the antennas wouldn't fit, and when I tried one of them, I didn't see much of a signal improvement. ended up returning it. I've been trying with the different bands the last few days. Didn't see much of a difference 8 thru 5. Settled on band 1 for now; hoping the lower middle frequency of 2412 Mhz will help with range and interference. The comcast router doesn't let you select bands 1-4 when you have the mode set to g/n and choose the 20/40 bandwidth option. The default setting was g/n and 20/40; assuming that even in the Auto channel selection mode, it would lean towards higher bandwidth for speed and pick higher channels. And most people wouldn't get this deep into their router setup, that in itself should reduce some noise. It's been connected this evening in the rain, so may be I found a nice balance in channel 1. Knock on wood!

Thanks for that. Yep, its quiet a few homes in close proximity. I'd say there are at least 40+ routers broadcasting in a 300 ft radius. The piece in the 2nd pic that's on the door (vinyl) is just a door sensor that tells the hub if the door is open or closed. It's the hub that's hanging on the side which connects to the wi-fi.

Thanks for the ideas! The bell wire won't work in my case as it would have to run across the road and in front of other neighbor's houses to reach mine. And I'm pretty sure the condo association will frown upon it. I ended up going the wi-fi garage door opener; but the wi-fi signal is at the brink of its range. On good weather days it stays connected, but on rainy/cloudy/high humidity days it doesn't get the signal. This would be the issue in winter when I would need it most. Please tell me more about the power line adapter. Not sure if this will work in my case as I don't know how the garages are wired. We have sets of 6 garages and each one is owned by different condos. They are free standing and not attached to any building; so I'm assuming that they would be wired up to a common line for the whole community vs each one going back to the respective owners home. My set up now: I got this; for 40 bucks, it wasn't too bad in my opinion. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075H7Z5L8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Install was fairly easy. The chamberlain unit did not register per instructions, so had to call they support line and they walked me through a different process on their site. Once registered, I had a long process because of my wi-fi situation; Had to be in the garage to do the door sensor linking; back to the house to get a strong wi-fi signal and get that link setup; then to the garage for it to learn the motor code. Got the Linksys N600 Pro Dual-Band WiFi Range Extender RE4100W that's hooked up in the patio (farthest outlet in the house) and the chamberlain is hanging right by the door.

Yep, it is.

The long story: We moved to a new apartment and now the legacy gets to sit in a garage instead of being out in the elements. Downside, its an uninsulated detached garage about 200 ft away My remote start works at that range and starts the car; but the garage door remote doesn't. I've looked at options of extending the range of the garage door opener, but none that don't involve changing the whole motor system (It's a rental, so not going that route). And I don't want to have the car running in a closed garage, obviously. I was wondering if there is some way to wire something up so that it activates the homelink button on the mirror for the couple of seconds needed when the car starts so that the garage door opens when I start using the remote. It'll be a hassle when I open the garage manually and start the car as a regular person... But I think it'll pay off for having a warm car in the winter Has anyone attempted something like this or any ideas that I haven't thought of?

I want a Thundra V8 My commute went the other direction. I now only put on about 10 miles a day instead of the 65 before. But I've spent money on the extended warranty and on a full winter set just this past winter; which I won't really get value out of if I sold now. Will likely keep for a couple more years and then change, if commute stays short.

Similar story. Mine sits in the glove box It works great if you always put a starbucks paper cup, but if you switch between different sizes, you'll need to take it out when you put wider mugs. I leave a vaccuum water bottle in one, so only have one for coffee. I just put a neoprene sleeve on my coffee mug so it doesn't dance as much. I like the ones that have the 3 spring loaded prongs that adjust to slightly different widths. Not a big deal. The little rubber winglets in the rear cupholders are a joke though.

Don't fully follow your thought process. 1. The car should start weather its locked/armed or not; as long as the hood and all doors are closed and shift lever is in P. 2. The lock button on the inside door won't lock the car if the door is open and the key fob is detected. (because it basically thinks you'll lock the key inside and unlock right away) The only time I've had the alarm go off is when I open the trunk without unlocking the door first. Don't know if that because of the setting to not unlock doors with the trunk switch. If you are leaving the window open and locking it through the inside button that way and then opening the door by the inside handle; that won't disarm the alarm and I can see why the alarm would go off...

Start-Stop is not really meant to produce any benefit in heavy traffic. In most cases of heavy traffic due to volume, you'll constantly be inching forward a foot or two every few seconds.. Its really beneficial in scenarios when the traffic infrastructure is properly set up and you are stopped at a light and you'll sit there for 2 minutes till the light flips, or even better when you are at a light on an small street intersecting a main arterial ave where you'd wait for 3-4 minutes before the light flips. almost 10 years ago, one of the Mercedes I drove in Germany had a pretty nice implementation. The engine would only turn off when the car was in neutral and the clutch pedal was released; and fire back up as soon as you pressed on the clutch pedal.

Not sure where you are getting that from, but I've used it well past 8k miles and have not seen any signs of it not doing it's job even in the oil analysis report.

The inside button doesn't rely on the sensors or the fob. It will open the trunk even if you don't have the key. That button is probably hard wired to the trunk latch. Same when you use the button on the fob. It knows you are the one opening it. It's only when you use the button on the trunk that it uses the proximity sensors to check the code from the fob that its the person with the key that's trying to open the trunk. If I remember correctly, there are 2 sensors in the front, two in the middle rear and one in the back. Check it it works if you leave the key fob in the car and then press the button on the trunk.. It's just trial and error at this point to figure out what's going on other than some one at Subaru/ the dealer that knows the inner workings of this.

oh wow. I thought the switch was hard wired, didn't think there was an antenna.. May be its the one that communicates with the key fob/ proximity sensor antennas. Are you able to unlock the car with the door handle sensor?

It is. But unless you have a $0 deductible plan, it may be just be easy to order the part and install yourself

And its fairly easy to take the trim out in that area if the dealer wants to charge you a kidney!

ROTFL Off late I see a ton of cars where the low beams are extremely bright when you are at an angle (curved roads/ turns) but straight ahead its not as bad. What I'm still not sure of is if the newer cars coming with factory LEDs have this down side of if its people putting cheap LED bulbs into halogen projectors that even after "adjusting" spit out light in directions they shouldn't be..

Just not so nice for the people in the opposite direction.

Looks great!

Pics or it didn't happen :-p

You mean like that

New winters went on over the weekend The ride seemed just as good or better than the stock LS2s on local roads. Haven't gotten on the highway yet; but plan on getting a sound reading just to compare.

I thought most remote starts have a hood sensor. I thought of it mainly as a safety thing so you don't crank the engine when someone has their hands in there, but I guess it could have stopped something like this. The factory one definitely does and it doesn't work of you don't hook up the hood sensor. Obviously you could tape the think close and fool it...

I had contacted SOA for something else, and I popped this question. The rep said she needed to research further and got back with this: "Thank you for contacting Subaru of America, Inc. I appreciate the opportunity to be of service. After further research, Subaru is confident that the manufacturer of your audio unit improved the part prior to its replacement in your vehicle. They obtain any defective units for repair and reconstruction for this reason. Sincerely, Customer/Retailer Services Subaru of America, Inc." Nothing specific, but at least they believe its improved in some way...

Hopefully some day we'll have over the air updates. Park your car in the garage, it connects to your home wifi and updates itself as appropriate. I'm sure the tech to do that is already here. It's the reliability and recovery if it fails that will need to be rock solid. No one wants to get their car towed to the dealer because their car decided to update itself overnight and something failed. The thing with your windows/mac or phone is you drive it to the nearest store for them to work on it and don't ask them for gas money or a spare phone while they looked at it... However most people would expect the auto manufacturer to cover for towing and a rental.