tornichoe

I meant apexi

Or you could just use them blinkers since we pour so much blinker fluid anyway :-p Back to OP, If you signal before you get close to the lane markings, it won't fight you.

Just got my oil analysis results from Blackstone Everything looks good and Its been consistent for the 15k miles I've had the car. I'll be doing ~9000 mile oil changes which typically puts me at once a year.

On the '15-'17 you could just take the bulbs out. Not sure if the 18s are setup differently. On your fast blinking, Check that yours rears didn't blow out at the same time that you were doing all this.

Finally got around to installing the EcoHitch from Torklift Central. Great customer service and quality product. I got the hitch in about a week after ordering; excellent packaging and arrived intact! It even included the installation instructions with pictures in color. Install was fairly straight forward other than me not having the right tools before getting started. I did have to take the rear wheels off to be able to get to the push clip and a couple of the screws holding the mud flaps. And while I had them off, I visually checked the pads and rinsed it all off with brake cleaner. And once I started pulling the bumper out, those stones along with a bunch of smaller ones fell off. You'll be amazed at all the crap that gets in there. And once I started getting the nuts holding the absorber off, I found that I needed a socket extender to be able to go through. I was able to get the bottom two out, but couldn't get to the inside one on the top; and the 1/4" torque wrench started slipping after I got to the rusted part of the bolt. Ended up driving down to a body shop and they helped get the remaining nuts off and tightening everything back after putting the hitch in. Marked out the portion to cut on the bumper. The instructions say 5 1/4 wide and 4 3/4 deep, but I've read elsewhere that a smaller one would do. Started with 4" x 4" and it fit good. I had to push the bottom portion a little to get the clips on either side of the hitch in. May be 4 1/4" deep would have been better, but I didn't want to take it out again. Really happy with the final outcome. I think its pretty hidden and if you have a darker color car, you may not even see it. I plan on leaving the bike rack permanently attached, so the hidden part is not a factor. Would certainly recommend this to anyone that's thinking of adding a hitch!

Good that I already got my OB switched over from Luke

May be this is what you are after :-p https://www.mbusa.com/mercedes/vehicles/model/class-C/model-C63W Had this for a couple of days as a rental and was pretty impressed by how well it switches between Comfort and Sport+ modes with the flick of a button. Changes everything from suspension, engine timing, gear shifts, exhaust tune and throttle response.

That's really interesting information. Thanks for sharing. Never would have imagined that the EPB is "smart". I could see where the temp adjustments are needed. The motor is probably set to cut off when just the right pressure is detected when initially applied and needing an adjustment once the brake components cool off. Guess such a thing was not needed in the non electronic versions as folks would have over yanked anyway and that they had the drum for the parking brake.

Don't mean to be an ass, but in your post #320 and 327 you said that the suspension wasn't touched... I guess you tried to say that the suspension wasn't touched since you installed new suspension components and lowered. Either way, I don't think you'll get much from the dealer in terms of warranty as you are running non-OE suspension components. The only way they would really be responsible is if you have the alignment sheet after they did the job and that was out of spec. Even then they would argue that you had non-OE components and they did the best they could. Personally, I would not go to a dealer to do these things once you mod things. Its way easier to deal with a tire shop. And they probably see a lot more of the after market stuff than the dealer. My comment from a few pages back still holds. Try to get a printout of what the alignment specs currently are. If something is off there (and it most likely will be), see what is out of spec and try to hunt down why that happened. If its just the nut job at the dealer that didn't know what s/he was doing and set things incorrect, you are probably out of luck.

Damn! that's a long time. Thought they were usually faster than that. Guess it's longer because of the commercial insurance.

Thanks for sharing his contact. I spoke to him last week. Going to switch our OB via him. Have a note written down to call him tomorrow. Just waiting for the credit card statement to flip over.

After digging up details on what we have on the OB, We have a plan with Zurich for 5/65 from when we purchased. Close match to a 7/70 subaru gold plus plan. We had a $100 ded unless we went to the dealer that sold us the plan, but they are willing to switch that out to a 0 ded nation wide at no cost. If I switch now to the subaru plan that Luke quoted, I'd be close to even after the cancellation fees and the % of plan unused that comes back. Any thoughts on reasons to switch to the subaru one over the zurich plan we have? I had zurich with a ducati I had in the past. But never used it for anything and just transferred when I sold the bike. So not much experience dealing with them.

Not by a whole lot. I think the difference was about 10 bucks a tire. Good to hear. I used to have the Hankook ipike on my previous car, and those were amazing. I would plough through snow and corner like I was glued down. The thread pattern was great at just throwing snow/slush outward through the huge channels. But those in the 215 or 225 were almost $150 a piece vs the conti with the rebate came close to a $100. This will be my first experience with conti and I've seen good reviews, so we'll see how I like them. I had a bad experience with bridgestone once and would never pay to get that brand. I'm sure they are great tires, just not for me.

Thanks! The wheels balanced good. They ended up removing the long factory weights that were on there. I don't have the sensors, so it would have offset where the weights were needed.

I got myself a winter set up, wheels and tires. The whole thing came to about $800. Now I just gotta wait for the snow! Decided to go with the conti winter contact si 215/60R17 to reduce the bulge that the 225 gets on the 7.5 rim and a little extra side wall.

Unfortunately with all the grease monkeys out there and the state of roads in most cities, its better to check once in a while. I usually take a peek when I'm getting gas. Stick the nozzle in and take a walk around, run your finger across the surface of each tire to look for uneven wear or if one of them was getting hotter than the others, cracks on side walls etc. Once it becomes a habit, it won't feel so much of a chore and you'll catch stuff like this much sooner.

Its pretty strange for that to happen. It'll be a tough battle for a warranty claim, saying its a wear item. Try to just take it to your closest tire shop and have them check and print you the current alignment specs on the car. I can't imagine that the dealer would have forgotten to tighten bolts on both sides and cause the camber to fall to the limit. Depending on what it is and when you had your last alignment, you should ask to speak with the service manager. If all that is in order, you can try contacting good year and see what they are willing to do. I don't see that the Eagle LS2 is covered under their thread life warranty, but wouldn't hurt to give them a call. Worst case they say no, best case they give you a new set. If you are not strapped on funds, I'd just get a better tire. Continental has a $70 rebate one some tires for a set of 4 tires till the end of the month. Make sure you find the root cause of the wear before putting on the new tires. Because if it was something with the suspension, just changing tires will bring them to the same fate.

Its either been scraping against something or you alignment is way off. And its been this way for a while. Just looking at thread wear pattern, it looks to be a something that could result from heavy negative camber. Did you have the car/ tires from when they were new? when was the last you checked alignment? Did you run a heavy negative camber on those tires even if it was for a short time? Please do not drive on a highway till you get them replaced. And weather you are happy or not, it is something that needs to be done. If those blow at highway speeds it will be a lot more that a set of wheels and tires.

One or more of your wheel weights may have fallen off. If you haven't already, get your wheels balanced before checking other things. You can also check the bearings by just jacking up the car (one wheel at a time if you just have the emergency scissor jack). Any tire shop will be able to check too.

After you extract the zip file that you received to you computer, you need to run that zip file looking thing again for that to install itself on the USB. If you just extract it to USB or copy it, it won't work. It happened to me the first time I had tried updating. If that is not your issue, then I'm not sure.

Would 215/65/17 or 225/60/17 tires on the stock 17x7.5 +55 wheels cause rubbing issues? The tire size calculator shows them to be 1.14" and 0.76" taller overall? stock suspension all around.

It has the toll free number and your member ID, that you can put on your key ring. It gives you a jet pack when you are stuck :-p

Just search youtube for bumper removal and there are a bunch of videos out there.

I believe even buying used takes you up to the years/mileage that is marked on the form from the first purchase date and 0 miles.. Even when you purchase right before the factory 3/36k runs out they sell you the new plan with an effective date of the current date. Don't think there is a separate used plan; but I could be wrong.

I'm working with them to get an eagle design done. Too bad they don't do different front and back. I like how your front turned out (excluding the yellow film. Just not my cuppa tea).