tornichoe

Unfortunately with all the grease monkeys out there and the state of roads in most cities, its better to check once in a while. I usually take a peek when I'm getting gas. Stick the nozzle in and take a walk around, run your finger across the surface of each tire to look for uneven wear or if one of them was getting hotter than the others, cracks on side walls etc. Once it becomes a habit, it won't feel so much of a chore and you'll catch stuff like this much sooner.

Its pretty strange for that to happen. It'll be a tough battle for a warranty claim, saying its a wear item. Try to just take it to your closest tire shop and have them check and print you the current alignment specs on the car. I can't imagine that the dealer would have forgotten to tighten bolts on both sides and cause the camber to fall to the limit. Depending on what it is and when you had your last alignment, you should ask to speak with the service manager. If all that is in order, you can try contacting good year and see what they are willing to do. I don't see that the Eagle LS2 is covered under their thread life warranty, but wouldn't hurt to give them a call. Worst case they say no, best case they give you a new set. If you are not strapped on funds, I'd just get a better tire. Continental has a $70 rebate one some tires for a set of 4 tires till the end of the month. Make sure you find the root cause of the wear before putting on the new tires. Because if it was something with the suspension, just changing tires will bring them to the same fate.

Its either been scraping against something or you alignment is way off. And its been this way for a while. Just looking at thread wear pattern, it looks to be a something that could result from heavy negative camber. Did you have the car/ tires from when they were new? when was the last you checked alignment? Did you run a heavy negative camber on those tires even if it was for a short time? Please do not drive on a highway till you get them replaced. And weather you are happy or not, it is something that needs to be done. If those blow at highway speeds it will be a lot more that a set of wheels and tires.

One or more of your wheel weights may have fallen off. If you haven't already, get your wheels balanced before checking other things. You can also check the bearings by just jacking up the car (one wheel at a time if you just have the emergency scissor jack). Any tire shop will be able to check too.

After you extract the zip file that you received to you computer, you need to run that zip file looking thing again for that to install itself on the USB. If you just extract it to USB or copy it, it won't work. It happened to me the first time I had tried updating. If that is not your issue, then I'm not sure.

Would 215/65/17 or 225/60/17 tires on the stock 17x7.5 +55 wheels cause rubbing issues? The tire size calculator shows them to be 1.14" and 0.76" taller overall? stock suspension all around.

It has the toll free number and your member ID, that you can put on your key ring. It gives you a jet pack when you are stuck :-p

Just search youtube for bumper removal and there are a bunch of videos out there.

I believe even buying used takes you up to the years/mileage that is marked on the form from the first purchase date and 0 miles.. Even when you purchase right before the factory 3/36k runs out they sell you the new plan with an effective date of the current date. Don't think there is a separate used plan; but I could be wrong.

I'm working with them to get an eagle design done. Too bad they don't do different front and back. I like how your front turned out (excluding the yellow film. Just not my cuppa tea).

The way I look at it: with all the electronics and new tech in it, it's a good piece of mind to have, and when you do sell it, it would help add value to the asking price. even better if you never have to use it.

I have the error come up every now and then. It comes on a little after I start the car. When I stop at the first traffic light, I turn off the car and start it back up, and then it works well the rest of the way and few days after. I'm out of the standard warranty, so I haven't made the effort to take it in yet. Once it starts happening more often, I'll take it in. Right now the dealer is just going to restart the engine, and tell me there were no errors recorded and charge me an hour labor at the very least; then ask me to come back if it happens again.. I don't have the problem on my OB, so I know something is starting to fail on the legacy..

I like the Dysons. I have their floor vacuums, but I'm not a big fan of the cordless models. Its always a matter of luck with the batteries (in general, not just dyson products). Especially when the new product is above $300 and the battery stops holding power after the 1 yr warranty... If its $100 and it dies after a year, it doesn't feel that bad just tossing it or use it corded for a lil bit before tossing. I don't mind swapping my BT unit for your vacuum if you are close by. It may not make sense shipping. I got two JBLs a few months ago, the timing just wasn't right for me.

If you do, you'll need to wire up a separate switch. You won't be able to use it around town or in any other situation than those idiots.

Can't go wrong with either. I got the hellas, as the bundle with the mount and harness from subimods was a better deal than ordering them all separate. I left the stock ones wired in there too with the hellas.

LOL! I couldn't get them to stop sending me renewal letters in the mail after the initial trial.

Hmmm. My '15 does not display on the dash when it detects the lane markings. When I swerve out of the lane without the turn signal it throws the flashing alert and the two solid white lines flash as well. But if I'm just driving in my lane the two solid white lines don't come on. On the '16 however once it picks up the line markings the solid white lines come on in the dash. I assumed it was a feature that got added with the LKA. My 15 only has the LDW. Am I missing something? This is what I mean: http://tinypic.com/r/2mi5kk0/9

On the '16 and up, it shows in the dash when ES picks up the lane markings. As to why it didn't pick up, it could be a multitude of reasons; lighting being one. Unlike some of the other manufacturers, the ES system does not try to keep you in the center of the lane. It will let you drift around within the lane quiet a bit before engaging the LKA or the LDW.

It's just a matter of getting used to it a little. The computer basically looks at where your steering is pointed at the given time and where the curve in the road is going. It computes that and comes up with the result that if it continues on the same path for a few more seconds it will be out of the lane, so it makes the correction. It can't imagine that you will provide further steering input in the next couple of seconds. When you are on a straight road it doesn't really do anything till you are really close to the line.

True that! Guess it matters what you are taught at a young age :-p Its sometimes sad to see people that take a $200 speeding ticket to a laundry list of charges that f up your life in a matter of seconds.

You have the EPA and the nosy fed to thank! I've seen these issues posted on mazda and honda forums as well. Its not isolated to Subaru. Mine has 40k+ with no issue. knock on wood. That said its a thing of chance. you could have a billion rocks hit the glass all the time and nothing happen; and then when the right rock hits the glass at its weakest stress point when the outside and inside temperatures are just right to cause a fracture, boom you have it. And that's why we have insurance to cover when it does happen.

Try the cruise at 25-28 and see if it happens. I don't know what car you are coming from, but the boxer engine is, lets say a bit more rough than compared to an I-4. You can also go back to the dealer and ask to test drive another car and see if you feel the same thing. I actually have the opposite problem, When I use ACC in packed rush hour traffic, and the traffic is moving steadily at speeds under 40, it has strange vibrations. Doesn't happen when not in ACC. Similar issue when ACC breaks as the traffic slows down suddenly, I have vibrations, but when I manually brake, its smooth. The dealer can't reproduce as they don't get into similar conditions on the test drive. I've just attributed it to the computer not able to decide what to do in those scenarios and do a few different things that case the vibrations and moved on. As waldguy above said, you may be getting the ECU to switch between engine breaking and getting a little gas...

I don't know how auto manufacturers usually work with dealers, but I don't think Subaru (or for that matter any manufacturer) has any direct control over the dealers. They are just a third party that provides the service of selling and servicing their cars and meet certain minimum requirements. In the sense that, they can't go out and get parts from NAPA, the techs have some minimum training, yada yada. But, if you have a bad experience, its with that particular business owner and they keep a record when customers call and complain. So when they get a lot of such complaints, they advice future customers to dealers in the area with better "ratings" in the area. I believe the only time SOA would act is if the dealer doesn't have a min volume of sales or there are other legal problems.

Hahahaha

I was going to post as well. You beat me to it. I just received a Bose SoundLink III speaker. Not sure what I did to get on SOAs good/ bad side :-p The note basically said, thanks for giving us the opportunity to improve your experience. we know you spend a lot of time in your Subaru, but when its time to be home, we are sure you'll enjoy this.