KZJonny

The forum does not like the iphone "live" photo/videos. Just learned this. Try taking a still and uploading a .jpg file instead.

I recall my bushings looking a lot like that on install, but I can have a look this evening to confirm. Car is on a lift, so it's not so hard for me to get to that stuff atm...

Short answer is ‘’no’. You’ll never get enough vacuum hand cranking for the pump to pull anything up and send it anywhere. If you used assembly lube during the rebuild, then critical components will be protected during first fire-up. A little oil in the turbo chra never hurt either. Pull the fuel pump relay or use the clear flood function and crank until you see oil pressure, the fire it up as normal. People have developed some pretty crazy means of using pressurized garden sprayers and the like to prime the oiling system, so you can investigate that. But given that every Subaru the rolls off the line is just filled with oil and starter, you should be just fine.

Respectfully, I don’t think you’ll get a stock short block, reliable and 400whp in the same engine bay…. Pick 2 of those 3. I know you said ‘up to’, so that gives you a lot of flexibility… but if you want all those 3 things, you probably need to replace OE EJ257 with ‘built short block and forged piston, etc…’. ymmv tho. Any photos of the Rex?

Right there. I just finished putting all mine back together last weekend and these recent weeknights, so it’s pretty fresh in my mind. I also kind of know for next time what things have to go in before which other things. Hah!

Here ya go. Just saved you the cost of a power bleeder.

The list of things you DO NOT have in your garage has got to be shorter than what you do....

100% Do a *very* good flush, and maybe a caliper service just to make sure everything is good shape. There is also quite a lot of info on doing an STi master cylinder swap, which is pretty easy and gets a little better pedal feel. GrimmSpeed brace is a nice touch (I have one), but I am not convinced it really does all that much but look pretty. (But it's reasonably cheap, and it IS pretty.) The stock lines have steel braiding underneath the rubber. Most brakes lines do, so the old "SS braided lines" is another expensive red herring.... But a lot less money than a BBK, and they do look good. (Many disagree, but I think the improved feel most people experience when going to SS brake lines is mainly because they do a proper brake fluid drain and fill + bleed when the install them. New fluid + no bubbles... crazy how much better the brakes feel!!) Definitely exhaust all other options before the BBK. Plenty of GTs have been autox'ed on stock brakes and been juuuust fine all day, with the right pads.

Get whichever wheels you like, and planning ahead isn't a bad thing. So long as you are going into it with the knowledge that Brembo's are purely eye-candy unless you aggressively track the car. Nothing wrong with spending your money how you want, at all. But the stock brakes are really pretty good with fresh fluid and the right pads. Just saying because many seem to think they're (Bremos, that is) better for a DD or street use. They are fine of course, but for a few thousand dollars, I expect upgrades to make my car faster or stop/handle better etc...

What's wrong with yours? Ie: Might it be more spendy, but easier and faster to have the problem solved by a machine shop or transmission place?

We don't have good access to EDM/JDM parts diagrams and part numbers around here, tho someone might be able to answer the question. My guess would be the GT already has a thicker bar, same as USDM GT. I know my (same year) GT had thicker bars than my OBW... By like, 1 mm or something, but still. I've been meaning to install that for a while...

Well, it’s always a good idea to have fire extinguisher around when doing a first fire up post rebuild…..

You could always use the oil galley at the back of the block by the turbo. I still don’t know if my oil pressure sending unit will clear the alternator either yet… but if not, I will do the remote setup like you have. I had to pull apart the wiring harness a little to free up the factory ‘replace engine’ sensor, but whatever. I didn’t want to have to put electrical tape on the cluster. But you can use the factory bsp plug for the rear galley and the npt one up front. (Or vice versa)

So, 2 things. I can confirm that the bolts are 10 x 1.25 (fine) thread pitch. About 20mm long, but they are not blind holes, so you could go a little longer if you can't find m10x20mm. Also, your brackets look really good, but 2mm kinda seemed to ring some alarm bells to me. I measured up the brackets on my trailing arms, and they are 4.8mm, folded and welded... Might be just fine with the 2mm plate, but I would at least consider keeping an eye on that... it might be a little on the thin/flexy side with the forces being applied to it, if you drive the car hard enough. EDIT: For the pedantic out there.

Aftermarket kits looks the same as the OE ones you picked up. (per Rockauto) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3778296&cc=1433582&pt=13679&jsn=10587&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 I suspect you'll be fine, and some of the shape of those o-rings could be them forming to the rail over time, but that little middle flange it probably just a change in production.

This is the same problem you're talking about here, yes? Do the new seals at least get the injectors to sit snug in the rails? It's port injection, so it's not like you'll have carbon build up around the injector nozzle in that little gap. As long as the seal holds pressure and injectors are centred, I can't see it making any meaningful difference. Some seals and gaskets have changed over the years, but are functionally the same. (Intake manifold gaskets are different, TGV o-rings are a new design, etc...)

If the price isn't crazy different, support your local Subaru speed parts supplier? If you put more information in your profile, (year and model of car, you location, etc..) it help people make good recommendations or find things that are local to you. Rallysportdirect are big and ship quickly, but there are lots of smaller shops and stores supported by many here as well. Depends mainly on where you are. The swap from dual mass to single mass flywheel is a good one tho. Even getting the FW at the dealer or online Subaru parts suppliers will probably be a lot cheaper than a new dual mass FW.

Thanks! I need to use that site more. I usually buy from https://parts.subaruonlineparts.com/ because they're geographically close to me, so things ship quickly. But they don't have those nice breakdown diagrams. I'll remember that for next time.

Anybody have a part number for the small coolant hose that runs from the bottom of the turbo coolant reservoir, from the bottom, back into the coolant pipes bolted to the top of the engine block? I suppose it is the feed hose coming from the pump... Nothing on Opposed Forces. #3 in the image. Much thanks.

At a guess, it sounds like wiring. Or bad grounds/poor power to the power steering pump (for one) and maybe somewhere else causing poor running conditions. Without a meaningful CEL. That’s at least where I would start?

If you almost wrapped your car around a jersey barrier they you were going to fast for conditions. I was doing about 25km/h. White knuckles the entire way. Any slower and I would have been a hazard on the road to everyone else. So technically to fast for conditions, with the performance tires I had on. But recklessly fast? No. Just a freak weather event that convinced me to keep all seasons on my 3 season car just in case that ever happened again. Southern Ontario is a stormy, icy, cold place, but almost never in October. I have proper Michelin X-Ices on my winter cars.

I believe you, but does it matter with the Grimmspeed TMIC? I found it to be super easy to install because both ends are silicon pipes. Or do you mean a little more for the OE unit. (Which I found to be a real bear to get re-attached to the turbo/throttle body…) And I am good to skip the ATF as a detergent for now. I may try it in future as I do oil changes. Throw it in for just a few kilometers before doing an oil change. Really gently keep everything clean.

Hah! I should know that, since I do have a set of aluminium trailing arms. Been a while since I got the kit to install them tho. Forgot what all is in it….

Thats a sweet deal if you can land it yeah... I do not mean to start a fire here, since talking about either tires or oil seems to really get some people's blood pumping. But, I think for less than track use, the all seasons are great. I also live somewhere the weather can be shockingly wild. I am on Continental DW06+'s. The "+" is the A/S version... but I came damn close to wrapping my car around a jersey barrier when we got snow and sleet in October a year or two ago. That is like 2 months earlier than we should get snow around here. (That was on older high performance tires… replaced them with the Continentals.) That was enough to convince me to go with the A/S that is much more tolerant of cold + slush. Not awesome, but they get you home...

Sounds about right. If I bleed the brakes, I can take another one off the list, and get the two year old fluid out at the same time. Hah! When the insurance is on, the offer of a day on the lift is still there. Good incentive to get lots done is to only have a day to do it... (tho you know you're welcome to more than one day.)