KZJonny

Oh man. That’s bad. Ebay fakes have gotten pretty good or bad, depending on which side of it you’re on. Rockauto has Timkens and SKF sometimes too. I’ve got mine from them, and have a few years on all of them. No trouble yet.

Fair. A4 Allroad = 2.0L turbo. But serious, you've already got enough drama in your life without another high strung small displacement car. OBW would be as capable, if slower and far easier on maintenance, etc... I drove my neighbours Sienna after doing a brake job for him, and while I would never own a minivan, for all sorts of reasons, I have to confess that the Toyota 3.5L V6 has some jam, even on a family vehicle tune. Of course, you then get the worst of all worlds, V6 smashed into a van engine bay..... BRZ sounds like a highly practical skiing day car. That said, I drove a '91 Tercel in the Rockies (Sunshine/Lake Loise) to a couple hundred ski days.... Just threw on some good winters and drove past the Jeeps that got stuck on the roads up the mountians. becaue all seasons, and tourists are idiots.

All cool options. Since you just smashed a VAG car, does an A4 Allroad wagon not make the list? I've heard that once your used to the VAG, there is no going back.

https://www.autotempest.com/results?make=subaru&model=outback&zip=01606&radius=300&maxyear=2009&transmission=man I picked a random ZIP code in the middle Mass. I don't know where you are, but it's not THAT big of a state. I like the green one with only 90K on it. My favourite colour for 3rd gen outbacks.

Awesome! I lived in BC for a while and those roads are for real. Also worked in Northern Alberta for quite a while, but generally took roads like that in my Ford F350.... Wonder if that is an H6? I couldn't see from the video... Either way. I wouldn't try in my stock height LGT, haha! But the OBW? I would 100% take mine down that kind of road.

First UOA from Oil Analizers. They do shipping within Canada and are associated with Amsoil, so easy to get your hands on and saves us Canucks from having to either ship cross-border or run over and send things in person. Easier and faster. The only REAL thing is the water level, and since there are no accompanying elevated levels of Sodium and Potassium which would be expected with coolant getting into the oil (Head gaskets were starting to fail, but only between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket, not into the oil galleys....) I am going to attribute the water to a couple of cold weather starts while the car sat in the garage + condensation in the sump. This was the oil from last driving season, left in the car over winter, more so whatever oil I add in the Spring is super fresh and hasn't been kickin around for months. Turns out this was a good strategy, since the oil that was in it go dumped and thrown out.... Better that it was old and not new and fresh. So, I'm going to run a batch of conventional 5w30 through the engine for first start up, and long enough to get the cooland burped and confirm oil pressure, etc... All the usual stuff. This will go through the 5000km old Tokyo Roki filter from last year, which should have lots of filtration capacity left in it. As soon as initial start up and warm up is done, I figure I'll collect that oil in a clean container and put it in the Yaris. Hahah! I really doubt that thing will care, and after a few minutes of running in the EJ, it should be well and truly filtered and still very fresh and good to go. If I am wrong, then I carry on with my plans to swap a Corlla 1.8L into the Yaris and *really* get that nugget rocketing down the road. Ha! I'm going to carry on using the currnet oil cooler and see what the results are at my next UOA. If there is no noticeably amount of water, and the copper levels are normal, I will chalk it up to the oil sitting too long and condensation from a couple of cold starts withough sufficient time to boil water out of the oil. If they return, then I'll throw in a new oil cooler and try again!

The forum does not like the iphone "live" photo/videos. Just learned this. Try taking a still and uploading a .jpg file instead.

I recall my bushings looking a lot like that on install, but I can have a look this evening to confirm. Car is on a lift, so it's not so hard for me to get to that stuff atm...

Short answer is ‘’no’. You’ll never get enough vacuum hand cranking for the pump to pull anything up and send it anywhere. If you used assembly lube during the rebuild, then critical components will be protected during first fire-up. A little oil in the turbo chra never hurt either. Pull the fuel pump relay or use the clear flood function and crank until you see oil pressure, the fire it up as normal. People have developed some pretty crazy means of using pressurized garden sprayers and the like to prime the oiling system, so you can investigate that. But given that every Subaru the rolls off the line is just filled with oil and starter, you should be just fine.

Respectfully, I don’t think you’ll get a stock short block, reliable and 400whp in the same engine bay…. Pick 2 of those 3. I know you said ‘up to’, so that gives you a lot of flexibility… but if you want all those 3 things, you probably need to replace OE EJ257 with ‘built short block and forged piston, etc…’. ymmv tho. Any photos of the Rex?

Right there. I just finished putting all mine back together last weekend and these recent weeknights, so it’s pretty fresh in my mind. I also kind of know for next time what things have to go in before which other things. Hah!

Here ya go. Just saved you the cost of a power bleeder.

The list of things you DO NOT have in your garage has got to be shorter than what you do....

100% Do a *very* good flush, and maybe a caliper service just to make sure everything is good shape. There is also quite a lot of info on doing an STi master cylinder swap, which is pretty easy and gets a little better pedal feel. GrimmSpeed brace is a nice touch (I have one), but I am not convinced it really does all that much but look pretty. (But it's reasonably cheap, and it IS pretty.) The stock lines have steel braiding underneath the rubber. Most brakes lines do, so the old "SS braided lines" is another expensive red herring.... But a lot less money than a BBK, and they do look good. (Many disagree, but I think the improved feel most people experience when going to SS brake lines is mainly because they do a proper brake fluid drain and fill + bleed when the install them. New fluid + no bubbles... crazy how much better the brakes feel!!) Definitely exhaust all other options before the BBK. Plenty of GTs have been autox'ed on stock brakes and been juuuust fine all day, with the right pads.

Get whichever wheels you like, and planning ahead isn't a bad thing. So long as you are going into it with the knowledge that Brembo's are purely eye-candy unless you aggressively track the car. Nothing wrong with spending your money how you want, at all. But the stock brakes are really pretty good with fresh fluid and the right pads. Just saying because many seem to think they're (Bremos, that is) better for a DD or street use. They are fine of course, but for a few thousand dollars, I expect upgrades to make my car faster or stop/handle better etc...

What's wrong with yours? Ie: Might it be more spendy, but easier and faster to have the problem solved by a machine shop or transmission place?

We don't have good access to EDM/JDM parts diagrams and part numbers around here, tho someone might be able to answer the question. My guess would be the GT already has a thicker bar, same as USDM GT. I know my (same year) GT had thicker bars than my OBW... By like, 1 mm or something, but still. I've been meaning to install that for a while...

Well, it’s always a good idea to have fire extinguisher around when doing a first fire up post rebuild…..

You could always use the oil galley at the back of the block by the turbo. I still don’t know if my oil pressure sending unit will clear the alternator either yet… but if not, I will do the remote setup like you have. I had to pull apart the wiring harness a little to free up the factory ‘replace engine’ sensor, but whatever. I didn’t want to have to put electrical tape on the cluster. But you can use the factory bsp plug for the rear galley and the npt one up front. (Or vice versa)

So, 2 things. I can confirm that the bolts are 10 x 1.25 (fine) thread pitch. About 20mm long, but they are not blind holes, so you could go a little longer if you can't find m10x20mm. Also, your brackets look really good, but 2mm kinda seemed to ring some alarm bells to me. I measured up the brackets on my trailing arms, and they are 4.8mm, folded and welded... Might be just fine with the 2mm plate, but I would at least consider keeping an eye on that... it might be a little on the thin/flexy side with the forces being applied to it, if you drive the car hard enough. EDIT: For the pedantic out there.

Aftermarket kits looks the same as the OE ones you picked up. (per Rockauto) https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3778296&cc=1433582&pt=13679&jsn=10587&optionchoice=0-0-1-1 I suspect you'll be fine, and some of the shape of those o-rings could be them forming to the rail over time, but that little middle flange it probably just a change in production.

This is the same problem you're talking about here, yes? Do the new seals at least get the injectors to sit snug in the rails? It's port injection, so it's not like you'll have carbon build up around the injector nozzle in that little gap. As long as the seal holds pressure and injectors are centred, I can't see it making any meaningful difference. Some seals and gaskets have changed over the years, but are functionally the same. (Intake manifold gaskets are different, TGV o-rings are a new design, etc...)

If the price isn't crazy different, support your local Subaru speed parts supplier? If you put more information in your profile, (year and model of car, you location, etc..) it help people make good recommendations or find things that are local to you. Rallysportdirect are big and ship quickly, but there are lots of smaller shops and stores supported by many here as well. Depends mainly on where you are. The swap from dual mass to single mass flywheel is a good one tho. Even getting the FW at the dealer or online Subaru parts suppliers will probably be a lot cheaper than a new dual mass FW.

Thanks! I need to use that site more. I usually buy from https://parts.subaruonlineparts.com/ because they're geographically close to me, so things ship quickly. But they don't have those nice breakdown diagrams. I'll remember that for next time.

Anybody have a part number for the small coolant hose that runs from the bottom of the turbo coolant reservoir, from the bottom, back into the coolant pipes bolted to the top of the engine block? I suppose it is the feed hose coming from the pump... Nothing on Opposed Forces. #3 in the image. Much thanks.