coco26

I recommend crutchfield.com for all that type of stuff. One stop shopping for dash pieces, head units, wiring, etc.

I too have TapTurn. It solves the turn signal hyperflash, but I don't think it does anything for brake lights. I've had amazon-grade LED brake lights installed for 3+ years now. Sometimes in cooler weather with my headlights on, I'll get the warning lights suggesting there's a bulb out, but its never been frequent or annoying enough for me to put resistors in.

I had a rattling issue that I thought was suspension for a while. Turns out it was the rubber sleeves on the brake caliper slide pins. The calipers were essentially rattling around on the pins. I'd make sure those are still providing some cushion.

I went with the Southbend stage 2 daily - FJK1001-HD-O. I only picked it because some other people here had it. It feels identical to stock in my opinion. It slipped some while I was doing my stage 2 tuning, and again when I did some pulls with 4 people in the car, but otherwise has held the power no problem. I got the standard Exedy flywheel from RockAuto because that's apparently OEM, but it doesn't look like those are listed anymore. Mine was in great shape and probably didn't even need to be resurfaced, but I replaced it anyway.

I haven't heard of anything like that. Not sure what on the TOB an upgraded fork would affect, aside from just not breaking. It would be the ideal time to for bigger injectors, cams, turbo........

I went overkill and replaced everything with new when I did my clutch, so take this list with a grain of salt: New stock exedy flywheel, flywheel bolts, solid clutch fork, billet pivot ball, and trans snout repair kit (for the throw out bearing). Engine out is the best time for rear main seal, FSB, FSB bushings/lube, trans fluid drain/fill, downpipe, wastegate porting, turbo coolant lines, spark plugs, engine mount inspection, starter gear lube, engine bay cleaning, etc..... its a slippery slope. If I had to pick one thing to do during the clutch job, I'd say either the clutch fork or the snout repair kit. If your bearing is already making noise, I'd make the snout kit a must. I did what dgoodhue said for timing parts, the parts I listed above (plus FSB, spark plugs, turbo coolant lines, trans fluid and subaru coolant, and assorted exhaust gaskets), and clutch for less than 1k. Borrowed a hoist from a friend and took about 8 hours of labor by myself.

Just saw my first fellow GT out in the wild, and of course I wasn't driving mine. Didn't recognize it as anyone's on here. GGM paint, blacked out headlights, L7 badges, aftermarket wheels, super dark tint, PA plate. Saw it on I-96 west in SE Michigan.

There is a button sequence to pull codes without a reader in our cars, unfortunately it's only for codes coming from the cluster. None for any other sources around the car will show up.

I had the tein coilovers on for a few years. They are similar in stiffness to the H&R springs (the stiffest of the lowering spring options) but have less damping than the koni shocks. I'm guessing the spring rates are similar but you'd have to check the tein site for what yours are. I'm guessing coilovers in general won't be the way to go if you want a softer ride, but I'll sell you mine for cheap if you want to give it a try.

I agree with your conclusion - the pink wire is the speed signal, so it would definitely need to be connected to the head unit somehow. Looks like i131-23 is the right spot. Easiest method I know of to put a pin back on there is to cut a connector off a subaru at a scrap yard, pull one out and just butt splice that onto the end of your wire.

The previous owner of my car had the recall done, so it was on at least its second set of lights on both sides when I bought it. Since then I've replaced 3 more sets. On the last round, I coated the back of the lights with sealant to try to prevent any water getting in. It's a losing battle, but at least they're somewhat cheap.

Reference this recall paperwork. Step one would be to check if your car has had the recall done yet - if not, they'll fix it for you. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2012/RCMN-12V602-9345.pdf If it has been done, you're on your own. The part number for the lights is H471SAJ010. There's a good chance the fuse in the "new" sub harness will be blown, so plan on either replacing that or cutting out the fuse and rigging your own back in as well.

Copied from my build list: I wanted to use the U-bars as DRLs, and add them to the TapTurn's arrival/departure lighting feature. Through the use of some relays, I was able to get what I wanted: Ubars come on with arrival/departure lighting, and are on when driving as DRLs. They maintain their parking light functionality as well. Relay #1 is triggered by any source switched by the key, and supplies 12v to the Ubars for use as DRLs when the car is on. When the car is not on, it passes the 12v to Relay #2. Relay #2 is triggered by Relay #1 (when the car is off). It passes voltage from the turn signal to Relay #3. Relay #3 is triggered by Relay #2 (when the car is off, and the turn signals are on). It passes 12v to the Ubars for use with the arrival/departure lighting (TapTurn turns both turn signals on for a set amount of time for this) The stock DRL resistor provided a perfect mounting spot for the relays. I had to add diodes to each headlight harness on the Ubar wire so that the car didn't think the parking lights were on all the time.

I disconnected the DRL resistor because I didn't like them anyway. I setup the U-bars to be on all the time sort of like a DRL.

I didn't add anything to mine, but I should have. The plastic is good, but whatever clear coating they put on it has been flaking off. I think a particularly acidic soap I used once kick started it, and in the year or so since then about 1/3 of each light has flaked off.

I have VLED's in mine. Cut off is perfect, each side has a step up in the cutoff, so you can adjust them to get a staircase-looking cutoff line so you have more light on the passenger side without blinding anyone on the driver side. The VLED's I have didn't fit behind the low-beam dust covers, so I made my own, but the newer bulbs might have a chance of fitting. High beams fit perfect.

My bad. I completely forgot I don't have stock headlights... So what I said is true for the U-bar style headlights, not stock legacy units.

I too have the original Micro's from VLED. They fit just fine inside the dust cap for the low beams. Not sure about how the newer version compares in length. I also got them for the high beams - they don't fit with the stock caps there, but I was able to make a custom solution. I imagine it would be pretty easy to 3D print a better cap now that printers are more common.

Also interested in your qualms with Speedway... I seek out Speedway at the same level as top tier stations. Ethanol content specifically wouldn't have an effect. Ethanol is just a tool to increase octane rating so suppliers can use lower grade fuels. Its more likely that Kwik Trip had a bad batch (or has supplier/contamination issues if its consistently bad).

Originally called the V-Limited, made by Bayson R. They stopped making them and some other company started making replicas (still with the V-Limited name) of worse quality, but looks like those are gone now too. Best bet is to keep an eye on the classifieds here and ebay.

FLlegacy is right - our BPV is a bypass or "recirculating" valve, meaning any air that is "released" is just sent back to the inlet of the turbo (post-maf). A "leaky" BPV just makes the turbo work a little harder on our cars. A stereotypical blow-off valve does release the air back to the environment and you would be right, but ours recirculates 100% of the air.

I've had an Invidia catted downpipe for a couple years now and it works well. I got it from Rallysport direct. Looks like they're out of stock at the moment but might be worth a call to see if they expect to get more. The aftermarket BPV is a must if you want to take full advantage of your turbo. Most people just tend to do it at the same time as a downpipe because the stock one leaks so much that your tune may need some fine adjustments to account for the extra air.

Mine was also extremely rusted. I hit them with PB Blaster almost every day for two weeks before I even tried, and I was able to get three of the nuts off with it in the car. The fourth one brought the stud with it. I was able to get the rest of the studs out once the turbo was out of the car with the double-nut method and replaced them with OEM studs (and nuts). If I had to do it again, I'd probably drop it as one piece just to be able to work on those nuts with better visibility.

I did my remote tuning with XRT while I was on a trip in Toronto...

That turbo noise is normal, it would be a very obvious sound if the bearing was going bad. If its increasing with RPMs, that means you need to press the gas harder so it spools up all at once The skidplate is probably echoing the noise back more than previous, but I've also noticed when I have a very small exhaust leak, it seems to be louder and a little bit lower in the rpm range when it starts to spool. If you can't hear anything that sounds like an exhaust leak standing next to the car, you're probably good to go.