coco26

I also thought about doing this, but the check digit is calculated based on a formula using the other digits of the vin. This website can tell you the correct check digit: https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/CheckDigit/Index/5yj3e1eaxhf000316 Even if I wrote a script, I didn't feel like waiting for it to go back and worth between these websites so I didn't bother.

I know we talked about this recently, and I had remembered seeing these numbers somewhere on here a long time ago. I went searching then and couldn't find them... but I clearly remember reading that there were exactly 50 of the 300 2011's in black. They were in a post separate from the other sets of numbers if you want to try digging. SOA definitely has the breakdown, and its incredibly easy to retrieve, but probably only about 30 people (warranty/quality group) have regular access to that info. Its all about getting in contact with the right person.

More parameters will definitely slow it down. I use SSM-CAN, but I know only certain methods work with certain market ECU's, so not sure if everything carries over. I've had it glitch sometimes where it reads slow (4-5 q/s) so I unplug/replug the tactrix and it jumps to a normal higher speed.

Looks like you have romraider figured out, just need to give it a name and click the "start file log" button for a log. You can change the save destination in the settings if you want. Looks like you're only getting 4 data points per second with Slow-K which isn't fantastic. Not sure if you have to use that with your setup, but I think I'm normally closer to 20 or 30/sec with one of the other options. I'd be interested to see a log of wastegate duty cycle and boost. It might not be fuel cut because of over boost, but the ecu might be trying to reign in the (what looks like overboost compared to your other screenshots) spike by either hitting the max WGDC value in the tune, or just opening the WG to slow the rise in boost.

Sounds to me like a fuel supply issue as well. I've also experienced the overboost cut, and it really is violent. I'd check your fuel filter (and maybe spark plugs) for debris and go from there. If you can log with RomRaider, you can log injector duty cycle and ignition timing to confirm if the ecu is commanding something to change/cut.

If its building pressure but not filling the reservoir, its likely the cap. You could have a head gasket failure causing the pressure, but that pressure should vent to the reservoir and blow coolant out there if the system is working correctly. Early on, the cap should have allowed the radiator to refill when cool if working correctly too.

Either that or the upper clutch switch is going. I unplugged mine one time and the gear indicator did all sorts of weird things.

This could be a steal if anyone is looking for a small project... Facelift headlights, front lip, and a tS badge 140k, looks like it needs a trunk and rear bumper, but none of the airbags went off and the rear fenders look untouched. https://www.copart.com/lot/40810310

Only automatics have a neutral indicator, in GT's its just blank when the clutch is in or in neutral.

I had the same problem initially, its all in how you add the phone to the system. It treats your phone like two different devices (phone and music device). I'd have to go check what the correct menu sequence is, but if you follow the settings for the music rather than the phone, it should add your device for both uses.

Not saying this is a good solution, but I ran mine with a small hole/crack in it for over 20k miles. I did try to repack it and seal the hole at one point, but it slung back out almost immediately. I replaced the whole axle when I did my suspension assuming that I would've done some damage to the joint, but the bearing surfaces looked fine, and it never had any problems. So maybe stuff some grease in the hole, make an attempt at sealing it and see how far you can go?

I disconnected all three mounts (and lifted it) and had plenty of room to get the wrong 3.6R one out and the correct GT one back in.

You definitely don't need to loosen the transmission mount. If you need more than what the front mount can give you, just loosen the two mounts on the sides that dgoodhue mentioned. There's one nut on each mount, 14mm if I remember correctly.

It's perfectly smooth, about the same hardness and texture of the tread on a new tire.

A few months ago, I experimented with some roof spoiler options, and settled on this one. Its solid rubber which I find much easier to mold to fit than the abs plastic most of the cheap options are. I think it fits with the aesthetic of the stock wing pretty well. Ebay Link

Nearly a copy cat of Timothy.B...

I have a set of Tein Street Basis Z I ran on my car for about a year and a half (~21k miles). They are fully assembled with tophats, and I have 1" lift spacers on them, which can easily be removed. The tophats were new when I assembled them. The front tophat bearings have a very slight amount of play, but I never noticed it while they were on the car. There is some rust around the lower mounting locations and the edges of the tophats, but otherwise they're in pretty good shape. The adjustment threads are starting to get some surface rust, but they are still adjustable with the spanner wrenches (included!). A good wire brushing and paint would probably stop the rust. I adjusted these every spring and fall with no issues. As for driving impressions, these are leagues better than the stock 10-12 legacy suspension. With the spacers, height adjustment ranges from slightly higher than stock down to dragging on speed bumps. I only took these off because I graduated to Koni's (my long term goal when originally buying these). Comparatively, the spring rate is about the same as the H&R spring option, but there is less damping than the Koni's. That means these are a very good first step to a better-than-stock, sporty suspension, at less than a quarter of the price of going full Koni or fancy coilover. For anyone who isn't looking to set lap times, I'd probably recommend these over Koni's based on bang for your buck alone. Price is $250, located in Pittsburgh, PA. Willing to ship at buyer's expense.

The light will always be on if you don't have any sensors at all. There's a thread on here from a long time ago where someone disabled the light, but it involves cutting wires in the harness. Mine does the same thing on long drives, but its because my tire pressures go above a certain threshold because they're hot, and I run them higher than I'm supposed to to begin with. After about 10 minutes the light goes back off. I'd just double check your pressures are good when cold, and see how hot your tires get after on a "long drive"

I've also gravitated to around 1 in the front and a little above 1/2 in the rear on my own. I also have H&R's, so I'd agree with GTeaser's suggestion for Eibach's.

Anybody have a good source for the Bayson R front lip? The closest thing I could find is this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/V-Limited-Front-Bumper-Lip-Spoiler-PU-Fit-For-10-11-12-Subaru-Legacy-Sedan-4Dr/321904698227?epid=1665603057&hash=item4af303e373:g:St0AAOSwcFxal2BD Mine cracked over the winter and finally broke completely today.

I'd guess the number Ed quoted you is just inaccurate, given what a plain old stage 2 setup makes on pump gas (300ish whp). Maybe an extra hot day or going uphill when you took the log? Less-than-85%-ethanol E85? If you want to confirm/deny it, RomRaider has a virtual dyno in it, or you can send me a new log and I'll run it through mine.

I did 30k on my last set of (stock) plugs on Ed's stage 1 tune and they looked "ok" when they came out. I don't have an AP to monitor the knock parameters but I haven't experienced anything noticeable. He might be suggesting fresh plugs if he was excessively rich or lean during your tuning process. Worth a shot.

Your check engine light doesn't have to be illuminated to store a code. Any non-engine related codes won't light it (for example, wheel speed sensor codes)

Same as everyone else said. It took me 3-4 hours straight of hammering and prying to get a 1/4" gap all around. Went back together in 30 seconds...

You can take it anywhere. Some shops have the lift sunk into the ground so its level, others have it above so it's a slight ramp up onto it, but I haven't been anywhere that's too steep to clear. As for recommended setup, for general street driving, you'll want 0 toe all around to minimize tire wear. For camber, set it to your expected aggression level (less aggressive cornering needs less severe camber). -1 degree is personally the minimum I would go, but some run less (more vertical). Factory specs will be fine, but they won't be optimal for vigorous driving. Most chain style shops will only do factory specs. The most important thing is that your setup is symmetrical side to side. Like FLlegacy said, it will settle eventually. I got my "factory spec" alignment at NTB when I installed everything, and am now going to go somewhere else to get custom specs now that it's settled. As for getting to the shop, assuming its not a long drive, just set the adjusters to the same positions on both sides. When I installed my control arms, it was apparent that I had very positive camber and was toe-d outward, so I just adjusted it till it looked good and then matched the other side.