coco26

Anyone have an opinion on adding a marker light to the side "wing" portion of our taillights? I seem to notice more higher-end cars tend to have little led's there and on the sides of the headlight. I think I like the look, but it might be a little weird without doing the headlights too.

Agreed, especially for the mileage. I'm sure there will be lots of questions about those headlights. I bet those blue calipers look pretty good with the color of the car in the sun. Looks like a good deal, I'd be happy with that especially since most of the expensive mods are already done

I'm no expert on the oil line arrangement so I can't help there, but that sounds like where your problem is given the recent problem someone else had. Can't remember what thread it was in. Keep a very close eye on your headgaskets though... Head bolts are typically one time use.

Sounds to me like the rear diff, maybe ask the owner if the fluid has ever been changed?

I wouldn't worry about 1.5 degrees at all, especially if your IAM is always at 1. Some knock is normal in every engine, what you want to avoid is consistent knock that could result in a "super knock" event (which your would IAM correct for) or consistent knock so bad that the ecu has to pull enough timing that it affects your drivability and fuel economy. (i.e. your IAM gets super low and its still knocking)

The box under the seat is the amplifier for the sound system. If you had a LOT of water, there's a chance it could reach the connector for the seat airbag and cause that light. The rest are likely just to get your attention because of the airbag light. I had the same problem about a month ago and sucked out a little over two gallons, but it wasn't enough to reach my amp or any other wiring, so you probably have a lot more.

I made the exact same mistake, but luckily noticed I got the 3.6R one before I drove it. Disconnect the end links ASAP if you need to drive anywhere. You'll need the '13-'14 2.5i sway bar (with the notch) if you want the bigger size. You'll have to make sure your oil pan isn't ruined (rubbed to the point of a hole, or bent enough that it won't seal) too. I was able to swap them by unbolting the engine mounts and lifting the engine as much as possible without over-stressing everything else that was still connected.

My car is basically a combination of A and B, meaning it's modified but either has or needs some paint work here and there. The only real "damage" my car has is where a rock bounced off the door on the highway, so having things repainted isn't necessarily a huge red flag for me. I'm currently considering having the roof, passenger doors, and hood repainted just because of how many rock chips and scratches have added up over the years. I'd just do a very good inspection for bent supports or replaced panels, and see if the color difference is noticeable. Nothing about B stands out too much (compared to cars on here), except for maybe the engine mounts. A few people have done trans and diff bushings, but we all seem to stop before the NVH associated with engine mounts. Worth a test drive to see if your son is going to want to swap any mounts/coilovers to get some comfort back in the car. Also, I'm not sure what WA's emissions testing laws are, but the downpipe may cause you problems there.

You don't need anything fancy for the flywheel, Exedy's OEM replacement is the same as the factory version, but cheaper. I got mine on RockAuto. I'd recommend resurfacing but I doubt you'll have time to do that if you're renting a lift. Otherwise your list should cover what you need.

Quote from the mechanic the last time I got an alignment: "I couldn't get your tie rods to move until they were cherry red and I was hanging on them, so you might want to get those replaced soon."

I've never heard of tabbed washers in our front suspension. I think there may have been some in the rear (toe arms maybe?), but they shouldn't need to be replaced.

I got it to the point where it could read the messages on the CAN network, but didn't get the ability to send messages to request engine data. It would definitely work if I spent more time on it, but I gave up on that project in favor of getting the same data through the radio via a maestro rr. Much cleaner use of space in the dash.

If they torqued the camber bolts properly, they shouldn't vibrate loose enough to change your alignment. I've had mine on and off 5+ times, plus being loosened for at least a dozen alignments, and they don't have any problems staying tight. That being said, I've had experience with low quality k-nuts (deformed lock nuts) that basically fall off after their first use, so its not a bad idea to replace them when you're supposed to.

I (and at least one other person on here) have had an issue similar to that, but I'm not quite sure what the problem is yet. For me, any time after sitting for a long period of time (overnight), backing out of a parking spot or driveway would make a clunk and kind of jolt the car a little bit. Almost like the front diff was "locked" from sitting, and dragging a tire broke it loose. After that initial pop, it wouldn't do it again until another long soak. I recently changed an axle an it hasn't done it since, but that may just be because of the warmer weather. There's not much to check other than side to side slop and making sure the grease is where it belongs... I had previously slung all of my grease out through a hole in the boot.

If it sounds metallic, give your axle a once-over just in case. Otherwise, maybe just double check the torque on the strut nut and strut mount nuts?

Ever since I bought my car I've wanted to replace the vintage looking nav unit. It's always had a distinct whir noise to it and its only gotten worse. Got my tax refund a few days ago and now a new head unit is on the way! Went with the Kenwood DMX9707S and associated installation accessories. I'm planning on adding some other goodies along with it, so I'll try to do some detailed write ups.

I think most people unbolt the control arm at one of the ends to swing it completely out of the way. I would personally unbolt the outboard end. When reinstalling, work your way outward, starting with bolting the sway bar (if needed), then the strut, then the hub.

Don't forget the oil hard lines if you haven't done those yet either.

Is that on your PilotSport AS3's?

I don't have much to add to what Sarang said, other than I agree with investigating a boost leak. You should have been fully spooled long before you got to 3600 rpm at 90% throttle, but your boost error is still saying underboost by about 6 psi. That being said, I think the wastegate duty cycle on my car is a good bit higher than your 30% at that point, but that could just be a feature of your tune.

What pinesol said is what I mean my excessive carbon... if you have a borescope, you can look inside at your pistons, which could be an indicator of the condition of your valves. You can check if you're running lean by either taking a look at your fuel trims, or checking the color of your spark plugs. Those intake temps are normal for out-of-boost driving. Also, even though you're getting 93 octane, is it from a reliable station? I've gotten gas from cheaper stations (walmart, grocery store brands) that not only pull power because of knock, but physically make the engine run rough.

Potentially, but you would probably notice a decline in performance if it was clogged. Running lean will overheat that cat though, which might be the source of the smell. You can check the plugs like cww516 suggested for a quick answer on if its fueling related. If you're worried about the cat, you could use an infrared thermometer and compare temperatures at the inlet, center, and outlet of the cat between sides to see if theres a blockage.

Dave is right. OTS tunes are "safer" (meaning less likely to knock) than a normal tune because they have to work for every car. He could make you a tune, but it would be less powerful than what you have, so you might as well go back to a stage 1 OTS or stock tune. I'd look more into what might be making your specific engine knock so much, like abnormally high intake temps, excessive carbon buildup in the cylinder, running lean, etc.

Not much to do in the meantime except check all the electrical connectors on that side (injectors, coils, cam position). Once you get your cable, check the AFRs/fuel trims. I'm not sure if they'll be separated by bank, but if one is off compared to the other, I'd start by replacing the upstream O2 sensor on the odd bank side. The service manual says check "spark plug, fuel injector, compression ratio, skipping timing chain teeth". You'd probably notice if it was either of the last two, but you might not notice if its fueling related as it can compensate quite a bit for a clogged injector rail or bad O2 sensor.

Now that I've seen that website, its much easier to to figure it out than I thought. I'm between jobs and have nothing to do, so I can take a crack at it and see if I get anywhere in the next few days. I'm by no means quick with writing scripts though. Update: I got something that works, but the decoding sites are fairly limited for number of requests. Vindecoderz only does about 20, and I found one called autoDNA that lets me do a little over 1000 before it stops responding. Depending on the site, it takes up to 30 seconds to fully load each page, so this is going to take a very long time to run all 100,000 possible vins, not to mention however long I get locked out of the sites