coco26

I got the RockAuto version, made by TYC. No problems in almost 2 years.

For reference, I have an invidia catted downpipe, magnaflow catback, and bpv. I had pre-stage 2-tune overboosting issues (likely more due to the bpv than the downpipe). I exceed the capabilities of my southbend stage 2 with my stage 2 tune... so you don't need anything more than those three parts if you don't want it.

I use PTC Creo. Very user-unfriendly but gets the job done. The dome behind the lens doesn't match up perfectly, but the gap leaves options for your choice of adhesives to hold the lens on. The chamfer around the outside is what holds the lens in place. Link to File

Painting the lens was pretty easy. I used the youtube video of the WRX knob to disassemble it. My original plan was to paint the lettering red and the background a different color, but I realized it would be nearly impossible to get the silver out of the letters. I don't think you'll ever hit it by accident with regular sand paper. I think I started with 240 grit and worked up to 1500 before polishing and painting. I used some basic spray paint laying around. The ring is 6061 aluminum just because that's what I have the most scraps of. I had to make a custom tool to get the inner profile. After that, 30 seconds with some 3000 grit and a few minutes with polish. I can share the CAD file I made for it if anyone is interested.

Over the summer I took apart my shift knob to repaint the lens, so I also painted the trim rings black because the silver finish was starting to wear off. Two weeks later, most of that black paint had rubbed off. Today I had some time so I machined the top ring out of aluminum. The original plan was to get it anodized black, but I'm going to test out the polished look for a while.

Those are the directions they need to spin to be realigned. If you have an allen wrench in each cam, and the "handles" protruding from the driver side of the engine, the "handles" need squeezed together.

I took the turbo stuff out with the engine. It definitely wouldn't have come out with the engine mount there, but after taking that off it cleared by an inch or two. Can't remember what else would be in the way.

Looking at replacing the bushings/ball joint on the front control arms when I get around to building my koni setup. If I remember correctly, a few people got the complete mevotech assemblies from RockAuto, as opposed to the OEM assemblies for $30 more. Just curious if anyone with the mevotechs has opinions on its durability, or if the $30 extra is worth it for subaru parts.

Is the Idatalink the maestro RR? And what system did you have this connected to (HK/nav)?

Engine and trans fluid usually.

I've been trying to get a representative video, but its hard to get an accurate sound on a recording. I watched that video a lot when deciding, and I think its more accurate than anything I've been able to record. Looking back, I think this is the most accurate to what it sounds like after break-in:

I have the magnaflow catback... a price that cheap is suspicious. Do you have a link? When I got mine, I had to hunt around because most places were selling them on a made-to-order basis and it was going to take several weeks to get it. I ended up finding somewhere that had one left in stock. I personally like the tone - its the classic deep magnaflow sound everywhere below 3k, after that it becomes more subaru-y but still deeper than other exhausts. Definitely less raspy that other options. As for volume, I'd say its more modest than a few other options out there, but it can definitely be heard. There's a bearable drone inside between 1600 and 1750 rpm, so cold starts and low speed cruising sometimes get annoying for passengers. I tried to make it a little quieter (I'm paranoid about waking the neighbors and wanted it a little quieter for residential driving) so I added a vibrant ultra quiet resonator and it made no difference. My initial impression was that if you short shift and keep it below 3k, it sounds like a dump truck with the turbo noise. That being said, my roommates are woken up every morning by the windows in our old house rattling and I'd still buy it again.

It is, but its almost definitely a manufacturing issue in this case. The retailer told me to contact Koni and follow their warranty process, so that's where I am now.

That's what I meant, I got all four so I default to calling them inserts.

Unboxed the koni inserts I got last friday to find one of the rears had leaked enough fluid to soak the box. It looks like it wasn't assembled correctly. Bummer.

If I had to guess, it sounds like your overflow reservoir is cracked. I'd try filling it a little higher than normal and get a look at it the next time you start it. Maybe even put a few drops of food coloring in it to see if its coming from the reservoir or the rest of the system.

Do we know if there is a difference between the kta216 and kta216A? Emnotek has a good price on the non-A part number.

What whiteline part number did you use for rear control arms?

I've had a knocking noise getting worse in my front suspension for a few months now, so I took one of my front struts off while swapping to winter tires. The new OEM strut mounts I put on when I changed my struts about 20k miles ago have a few degrees of play in the bearings side to side. Not sure if that's a result of the tein coilovers and lift kit combined, or from one of them independently. I'm now trying to quickly decide on the best setup I can get together over the winter and get good prices today. I can either stick with the same setup and throw on new mounts, or build koni's from my stock struts. Then do I get rear lower controls arms...? And bushings...? And...

This wasn't the case for me. I drove over 1200 miles trying to get it to set, a good portion of which doing the exact drive cycle prescribed by subaru, and it wouldn't complete. I flashed my stock tune back on and it completed within 5 minutes. In PA you have to have all monitors passed, so I ended up two months overdue on my inspection messing with it.

It would be the rear sensor, but what whitetiger said is accurate. When I had my stock cat, my stage 1 tune threw P0420 but the stock tune was fine. Now that I have the invidia catted downpipe, its not even effective enough to handle the stock tune's fueling, so I will permanently have P0420 no matter which tune I'm on (unless the code is disabled).

As for the flywheel, exedy is the OEM, and you can usually find a stock exedy branded flywheel for cheaper on aftermarket sites. RockAuto was cheapest when I got mine. Not sure of anything else I would do on a 2.5i.

I've had the micro evolutions installed for over a year and a half now and love them. The low beams have room to spare in the stock dust caps, the high beams didn't fit. It looks like the extreme's might be a little bit shorter.

I got the 3-year alignment deal at NTB, and they almost always insist our cars don't have front camber adjustment. I used to live near a few NTB's, so I just drove around to different locations until I found one that was competent enough to know they do.

I installed an Invidia catted downpipe and turbosmart recirc valve at the same time, and that made my stage 1 tune overboost. Not sure which did it, but I'd be ready to get some tune adjustments made at a minimum.