Artizan

Power steering cover sold? Toronto?

In terms of looks it's perfect, exactly what I like. I also see added value in the fact that it's an STI part. Stupid I know, but there's something to it mentally. Reviews are generally great on these, but holy shit, $210 CAD is the cheapest I can find. For a shift knob.

I've tried searching, there seems to be pretty much nothing almost. A couple of photos at best.

Like these:

Start with the suggested o-ring. If that doesn't stop the leak, it's your power steering pump itself. Not a difficult job either, if you have to replace the pump.

Just as an update, I ended up changing just the PCV valve. returned the rest of the parts. I'd still recommend getting all of them just in case, and then returning what you don't use. As to the result tho. It transformed the car Actually kind of shocking how much of a difference it made. When I was taking the old one out, it was pretty darn loose. Hoping my intermittent P0442 was because of this too.

Am I the only one who likes the Burn-up bumper?

I found all the part numbers, in case somebody else needs them. 99071AD140 - vacuum hose, PCV to crank case 99071AD200 - vacuum hose, PCV to turbo inlet 99071AD210 - vacuum hose, PCV to intake manifold 11810AA040 - PCV valve 11818AA000 - connector, PCV to turbo inlet 11821AA580 - PCV case/enclosure (black piece that the PCV valve screws into)

How do I get this done? It's no longer for sale, and I can't find a guide anywhere.

I can find the PCV valve itself (11810AA040), but I know at least on older models you could buy the whole valve assemble with 3 hoses already on it. Does that not exist for an '08?

Did everything as I described above. On fill, exactly 3 US qt fit when it read right on the full mark. Oh well, I'm sure a little of the old stuff mixed with the new is not a huge issue.

Currently my plan is to reverse onto small ramps made out of wood with my rear tires, jack up the front and put it on jack stands, undo the plug, and when I see it stopped draining, lower the front to get whatever else comes out. Then jack it back up to level of course and proceed with fill.

I didn't mean how to completely suck it dry. Just wondering what's the best practice to get the most old oil out safely.

I'm reading up as much as I can in preparation for my trans and diff fluid change, and one thing I've noticed in quite a couple of photos is that not all of the trans fluid will come out during drain. Any tips on how to get as much fluid out as possible?

No bueno. Only if you replaced it with an identical turbo. Otherwise, you absolutely have to tune, or it'll cost you a lot more than just a tune PLUS a tune still.

I know a lot of people here go the opposite way, because they enjoy the feeling of an engine vibrating the entire frame, but I don't particularly enjoy that feeling myself. One way to make the car more comfortable seems to be softer mounts. I know Group N engine mounts are supposed to be a good in-between solution. All tho not sure if I can even get them. Do you know what's the softest most comfortable mounts I can find?

I don't care about power gains. Only thing I care about is installing what's healthiest for the engine. All the talk about aftermarket pulleys not balancing harmonics is freaking me out. Are there any lightweight pulleys that DO balance harmonics, or is OEM the only way to go for this?

75k km on it

Or can I replace the tensioner without messing with the belt and timing?

Interesting. In your pics I'd say the front is a bit higher, rather than the rear.

Mine have a lot of kms on them. I know the front will die soon because of the new springs. I'm thinking I'll leave everything as is for now, and change the springs together with shocks when the time comes.

I have a sedan, would that make a difference? And after what size spacer would I need longer studs?

I got myself a set of H&R springs to finally lower the car a little. The front are on as of this moment, and the car is actually almost perfectly even right now, with H&R fronts and stocks in the back. But it's only like that because the butt is saggy obviously. So my question is, if I install H&R springs on the rears, are they still going to be even lower that the saggy stocks? The height all around is perfect right now, but I'd rather not have mismatched springs, so I'm trying to figure out what I need to do to keep the same even height with H&Rs. I know that I can always put the new springs on in the back, and then if it's too low, add the spacers. But naturally I'd prefer not to do double the work, removing the struts again later for the spacers.

My car is '08, but it had an ej257 swapped in by previous owner. Also has a custom tune on it. Manual if that matters. What spark plug gap do I need? Can't find any concrete info on this even after searching. SILFR6A that I bought are gapped at .032

Went with Timken, we'll see how it goes. Thanks for the torque specs.