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Doable on jack stands?

I got all the bolts already, including the rear 4 that are a real pain. Now the pan is just held by the old gasket, and for the life of me, I cannot get it to move. Can't find a good angle to get leverage there without risking damaging aluminum on the block (already scraped a little bit naturally like an idiot). How do you get leverage to peel it off?? I didn't remove the header, as all the 10mm bolts were readily accessible without it, not sure why people remove the headers for this job.

Stock in the rear but the shocks are cooked. Don’t think that alone could fix the placement either way. Would rub less I imagine but still rub.

08 LGT 5MT sedan. Got a new set of wheels and tires, 18x8 +35 235/40. Looks-wise the size is perfect. However, my rears, especially the rear left, are rubbing on almost any bump and shredding my brand new tires. I'm surprised the rears are rubbing compared to the front, considering that the front actually pokes out past the fender a bit. But regardless, seems like my options now are: 1. Either selling this set and losing money on it 2. Getting parts to adjust camber (I was told I'll need pretty aggressive camber to fit this size in the rear closer to -2) and those parts are kind of ridiculously expensive at around 700 CAD just for the rear Whiteline arm set 3. Rolling and possibly pulling. Everybody is telling me this should be last resort because it's obviously irreversible I did a ton of research here and in other places before buying, and it looked like a bunch of people managed to fit this size without rolling or pulling. What would you recommend?

Neither actually. It was sweating oil in the middle, so I decided to preemptively rebuild it. It’s already mounted so living that way is not an option. Pulling plugs is a massive pain in the ass on these cars. Seems like the fuel pump fuse is the easiest option, unless I can easily disconnect the coil wires.

Reading up on NASIOC, people recommend pulling the ignition fuse, which I cannot find on this car (08 5MT), then cranking it for 10s three to five times in a row to prime the turbo with oil. I can find the fuel pump fuse but am worried that somehow the engine will fire up with residual fuel in the lines. Or is that entirely impossible? Do we have an ignition fuse? Anything else I need to do?

All I can find is the whole assembly. Talking about the pipe connecting two headers.

You see, mine is a sedan, so it doesn't have the fender flares like yours. So +35 will be poking a little bit as is I believe. If I go with 235, I'm afraid it simply won't clear the fenders, as I'll be cutting it super close with fitment. I know lots of people run 225/40/18, but it doesn't fill the wheel well, so I prefer slightly bigger ones in terms of looks.

I'm having a huge struggle deciding which size to put on my soon-coming wheels (18x8 +35). Could you share pics if you have one of these two sizes? 225/45/18 appears to be exceptionally rare.

Could somebody recommend what bolts I can use instead of these? $10 USD per bolt seems ridiculous.

Have a contact to get it for a good price. Here's a photo.

Mine is a sedan. Any idea on fitment differences?

Ordered some 18x8 +35 wheels. Hoping to mount 235/40/18s on them. Suspension is stock shocks with H&R springs. I don't mind a little bit of poke, just don't want any rubbing. What should I prepare for? I've looked at every fitment photo I can find of similar setups, and it's insane the differences in looks and mods. How does that make any sense?? Some fit this size and apparently only roll the fenders. Others say you'll need to roll+pull+mega camber... What the f am I missing in understanding this?

My car is parked for the winter anyway, so shoot me a message when you get to it, maybe I still won't have found one by then.

Man that’s damn expensive

Struggling to find it on eBay. Any suggestions on what to do with the joint pipe? Mine is missing the heat shield and it isn’t sold separately.

Oh, I had no idea. '08 Is the uppipe exactly the same as the STI one?

I think previous has already out on the STI uppipe and I don’t know.

So I pulled off my uppipe, replacing it with the catless STI one, so really this doesn’t make a difference now. But I’d like to understand. What is this visible spring on the inside, and where’s the cat???

No springs?

I dremelled the shit out of mine until a portion of it was completely gone, then it moved from chisel hits.

I'm trying to remove my downpipe. The bolts and nuts on the midpipe connection, the one with springs, is simply spinning in place when I try to undo it. Am I missing something? What I mean is that I'm holding the nut and undoing the bolt, but the nut doesn't actually make any progress moving off the bolt.

**** me right in the arse. Even the chisel isn’t getting them. There’s Barry even anything left of one, yet it’s still on! Help please! Open to any ideas that don’t involve me cutting off the whole stud and then having to remove the remains

I’m wondering which panels would you apply sound deadening onto to accomplish this? I’m guessing all the doors, the front everywhere. Top of the trunk. What about rear seats and trunk floor? Also, is there a way to apply sound deadening to the firewall without disassembling half a car?

Can’t find this exhaust anywhere. Only thing that comes up are threads here. I really want the SPT, but it’s pretty pricey.