PATS4LIFE

Sounds like a good combination. How much did you pay for the ABE?

Paid $100 for the 2017 Wrx oem catback,but since Wrx doesn’t have reso on midpipe it was too loud and too much drone,so I decided to get the y pipe section from Wrx and had it welded onto the 2.5 mid pipe.

Here is the sound clip of you haven’t heard it

DD C-Light Switchback LED Halos on my 2015 Legacy

 

https://vimeo.com/226535131

Nice!!! I had them for 3years already and they still good a new,I will be re-opening my headlights soon to do a complete blackout,well except HB reflector.

I’m dealing right now with a Subaru dealership that is blaming all electrical issues, i.e., erratic remote start run times and intermittent cruise control switch operation, on my aftermarket LED heads and fogs. They won’t even continue diagnosis until those are switched back to stock.

 

Now, whether these LED’s are actually the culprit is still a mystery. FYI.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Find another dealer,I have LED all around exterior/interior,aftermarket projectors,LED Bar & fog lights but no electrical issues.

I never realized that you had a dual-exhaust. What are you actually running?

It’s stock legacy oem mid pipe and WRX mufflers.

That would explain it. I’m assuming 2015-2017 owners would need something like the diode dynamics upgrade for similar results.

Yes 2015-17 does need DD C-lights for same result..but the difference is DD c lights are switchbacks lights.

Just finished installing the new Fortin Evo-One module for remote start w/RF64-2Way remote & Rockford fosgate tele-connect with MyCar app.

Also installed rear diffuser

I’ll post this here but it might belong elsewhere:

Today around dusk I had a 2018 outback behind me running the c lights only (no DRL) and they were BRIGHT. Didn’t appear to be modified in any way and the driver appeared to be a typical triber. Did the C Light get a boost after 2016 and was there a DRL change? It was definitely bright enough for a DRL imo.

2018-2020 outback/legacy C-lights is the DRL Lights.

I assume because you have a 19, you have eyesite? Has the eyesite been affected by the lower ride hight?

 

i am so tossed up on lowering or not with this eyesite on my car.

I believe he has 18”s wheels,

Also mine is lowered with H&R springs and didn’t have any affect on my eyesight..

Yes, mine does.

Hmmm wonder what happened to mine,even when I put my key to On it still doesn’t light up on dash

Got my lights installed! And my cut out exhaust! Which sounds terrifyingly loud on the open road in my 3.6R.

 

 

More photos: https://imgur.com/a/uQZCXnC

Looks nice!!did you blackout the headlight?im gonna re-open mine for the 3rd time so I can do a blackout.

Could it be grounding out on the connections at the tail light or the big gray connector?

Thanks,I’ll check those out,I’ll also try to put stock signal back and see if it still does the same thing.

UPDATE: figured it out it was front left blinker resistor that hook up on the stock signal wires going bad,but not sure what’s front signal got to do with braking to make it rapidly flash.

Anyone have a DD turn as tail module installed in their car?

For a week now every time I have my left blinker on and pressing the brake blinker would flash rapidly,this only happens on left blinker,so I though it was the DD module issue and contacted DD about it,so they sent me a new kit and installed it Monday but it’s still left blinker flashes rapidly when foot on brake pedal but once I let off the brake it flashes normal:/

Anyone can give an idea on what could be causing this?thanks

But it has a turbo?!?

Nope no turbo:/

Drop off car at dealer to replace steering rack,gave me a 2020 legacy loaner,kinda slower than the 6th gens.��

UPDATE:Just got the car back,steering is much more responsive with the new rack and definitely really quiet like if it was new:)but will see if the rattle will comeback.

Was this a direct bolt on? Also what part number for the Cadillac pistons?

No it’s not direct bolt on,

You need these: https://ctsvbrakeswap.com/products/frs-brz-gt-86-4-piston-ats-caliper-bracket-kit for 4piston calipers

For Z6 6 piston calipers

You need these: https://ctsvbrakeswap.com/products/subaru-and-frs-gt86-6-piston-c6-z06-caliper-big-brake-bracket-kit?pr_prod_strat=collection_fallback&pr_rec_pid=4283448393779&pr_ref_pid=1951976980531&pr_seq=uniform

Had these on for a while now and haven’t had any issues at all it was day/night difference from stock braking.

As for the rear all I did was replaced rotors with Hawk slotted rotors and better pads.

My DD turn as tail module kit started having issues and it’s was past the 3year warranty but I contacted DD customer service and told them about the issue and they decided to send me a free new kit anyways:)

Also first thing on the morning I will dropping off my car to dealer because few months ago they replace the spring on the steering rack due to rattling,well rattling game back and more worst,but I was told that if rattling comes back they will replace the whole rack assembly.

Not a problem, but a precaution as I’m putting in a 320 amp alternator. I’m installing the alternator for some audio equipment. The 320 was on sale so I bought it.

Yes those 2 braided wire is engine to chassis ground,and you should be fine using the same wires you use battery - to chassis

Ok, That is probably why I could find it on my car. Odd that I found it for a 2016 Legacy but maybe it is for the 2.5l

Weird I have 2017 2.5 but I can’t find it either:/