PATS4LIFE

Some sites like https://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Wheel_Configurator_2.cfm have the option to see rims on your car. There’s a bunch of ones out there helped me make my decision. Personally I don’t care for gold rims but then again I don’t like gold in general. I prefer silver or chrome or even gun metal.

 

I’m leaning towards the sparco gold wheels,it’s mostly like it’ll clear my Cadillac Brembos up front,right now I’m running 17x8x40mm and it’s barely clearing my brembos.

 

The enkie I like it but the back spacing worries me.

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

Going to order a set of wheels and decided to go 18’s instead of 19’s

Anyways I need opinions I have 2 wheels that I’m trying to chose from

1) Sparco- rally gold 10 spoke 18x8x45mm

2)Enkie- Bright silver 9 spoke 18x7.5x45mm

For tires, thinking of 235x50x18

Hey Nick,

 

Someone had posted a link to a dealership that had "lifted" a Legacy 4dr. It looked pretty slick, they used an Outback front bumper cover to get the bigger fog lights. It appeared that they didn't run into any fender issues.. If I remember correctly they did the rocker panels as well and installed an oversized basket type roof rack. The underpinnings aren't that different and can be done easily. I used to love seeing the Legacy Outback and the 3.0 4th gen that used be around. The problem area ends up being the rear bumper cover, how to clean it up while getting a rugged look.. I'll try to find a pic of the car i'm talking about...

-

cheers:cool:

They didn’t use front bumper from outback,that’s a 2018 Subaru Legacy

Can’t wait to see the box u design for all of this

 

I actually just ordered everything from Skars 2 10” subs 1200watts/600RMS each,got the dual ported box,

Skar Audio RP-1200.1D Monoblock Amplifier

1-ohm Stable Car Subwoofer Amplifier

Class D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier

4 Way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Voltage, Speaker, DC

RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 800 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)

RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 500 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)

RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 1,200 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)

Peak Power at 1 Ohm: 1,600 Watts x 1 Channel (14.4v)

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

Was looking for something in my tool drawers and found these still new!i didn’t even know I had it.i

I guess I’ll install it when I receive my subs and amps.

I went with this one it has Front Rear and Sub out that it converts on its own instead of using rca y cables. It also has auto on as I said before as well as ability to send REM out even without rem in. This was key for me in my setup as my capacitor needs a REM.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C723VT4/?coliid=I1M0VT7KS7FRE6&colid=3EUJA12TS0SYU&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

If anything pick out your subs first making it easy to choose an amp that works well with it. What subs have you considered? Where are you mounting the LOC? you will most likely have to mess with the gain control during tuning so hiding it behind the headunit might not be the best option. I have mine in my arm rest which made it real easy to run the rca back under the carpet.

 

 

I’m thinking just maybe going with 3-4 6.5”s subs from skar audio or their 3x 10s subs.

Does your LOC have auto signal on? I choose that route with mine as well as my amps. Funny thing I notice with this setup sound doesn’t kick on for a few sec or so. There’s also a bit of a pop when first turning on the car so I ensure my volume is turned way down b4 I shut off the car. Still in the tuning stage so who knows once I find the sweet spot between my converter gain, amps, and head unit it might go away. So far with mine I have it set to give 86db at 41 volume on the stock head unit. When I had it set at 30 for volume I had a lot of extra noise.

 

This the LOC that I have hopefully no issues with it,I’m still thinking what Amp/subs going to get,can’t make up my mind:/

 

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_46219_NVX-XPLOC4.html

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

Trying to wire up LOC but I’m confused which side to cut from for the front speakers

I don’t know which side to cut from,should I cut from the white or gray connector?can someone help please!!!

Today’s the day I try and fit the 3.6 engine cover in my 2.5 It’s not going to be perfect but I feel I can make it fit. A few bolts w painted tips to see where it lines but and I got 3 spots basically ready. 2 front and 1 back right. The left side doesn’t have any spots to mount so I’m going to the basement to work with some scrap metal I have to see what I come up with. I’m not doing this to pretend it’s a 3.6 I’m doing it cuz the stock cover is crap and I want my engine bay to look nicer then it does now.

 

 

Post pic when finished,I’m interested of the cover too,I was thinking of using the cover from Wrx STi and just cut off the intecooler part of the cover

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

OMG this just happened to me yesterday. What a coincidence!

No obstruction. I had to do the reset procedure 3 times before it fixed itself. And being a tech guy I hate things that fix themselves lol

 

Symptom: The window would go all the way to the top then immediately come down and stop half way. Window can come all the way down or can be brought up manually, but the second the window touches the top limit it comes down and stops half way.

That’s exactly what my car window is doing,I did the reset procedure but didn’t work,so what I did was when the window was halfway down I pushed the glass from inside towards out and it’s been working fine for now.

Ohh so ur saying when it goes all the way up it goes back down half way? If that’s the case U might be right. I’d try re sitting the seal in the channel.

 

Yes window goes all the way up and it would just come down halfway as if something is obstructing it.

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

If it’s going down half way without being rigid it might be your switch on the ps

 

I was thinking might be a failing safety sensor?

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

Finally got the system installed. I ran out of carpet b4 I could make the front piece that hides the gap so thats for the future. Did a quick tune and sounds great. Ill prob spend a few hours tuning it another day. Im glad I used as much dynomat as I did but now I know I definitely have to do the trunk lid as well. Im running the Sub at 2 ohms and boy does it bump. Once I'm happy with the tune Ill get a DB level for the system.

 

Damn that set up is nice!!

Sorry but there's not enough room.. Under passenger seat is the Stock Stereo Amp.. Your going to have to get Custom Shallow Corner boxes built for the trunk..That would be your best bet.

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I don’t have factory amp,but ya I just checked I don’t think it’ll have too either way,I guess no choice but trunk.

Dash Speakers are Stock 3.5's... So you can upgrade those to match your doors if they make Fosgate 3.5's.. It's always good to match your speakers if all possible.. When I change my current setup only unmatched speakers will be my subs. Because I still want to use a Slim Design for Trunk Space so there are limited Slim Subs, but I've found a good brand..[emoji48][emoji48]

 

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Ah ok I thought the dash were tweeters,I’ll check for 3.5”s fosgate,

Also thinking of putting 2 shallow mount 10inch subs under the front seats.

I’ll replacing all four door speakers & dash tweeters with Rockford fosgate,

Would it be ok if I can just leave the stock tweeters connected and install the rockford tweeters with the rear door speakers?thanks

I just did the speakers the other day so I haven’t tried them out yet. Everything’s going to be amped so I’ll let you know. In my last 2 cars I used dynomat. When you do just the doors it is decent. One of my cars I ripped the carpet up basically put dynomat across the floor doors trunk and that made a big diff in road noise. No matter what you do there will still be noise from the glass.

 

Cool,let me know on your other car did it add a lot of weight and noticeable?

 

 

—————————————————

HPS intake, SSD Front Strut bar, Cusco Rear Strut Bar, Voxx 18” rims,

More to come...

Did the dymomat made difference?wanted to put some on my car just to reduce road noise.

 

Changed oil again. At 12k+ miles. Added fumoto drain valve.

Nice!i hope you used crush washer instead of the gasket that came with fumuto.