PATS4LIFE

Just finished halfway making my Amp rack,trying to work on little by little, been busy at work.

I need some extra clearance to drive my car onto the beach so looking for some info on lifting my subaru. Haven't found anything in the forums yet. Anyone have any experience with LP adventure lift kits? Maybe another brand? Thanks!

Something like this from primitive brand?

https://www.wilsonvillesubaru.com/our-newest-custom-subaru-a-lifted-legacy/

https://awdadventure.com/collections/2015-2019-subaru-legacy

Hey Guys!

Just thinking of getting a summer wheel set up so I can just throw snows on the stock wheels. I have a 2019 Limited with the 18 inch wheels and would like to go to a 19 inch. My main question would be that I plan on going to a 19X8 +45 offset. Should that fit?

Thanks guys!

Shouldn’t be an issue, even if your car if your car lowered.

A little teaser of the New Wheel. He finished up tonight with the Black Bolts..

 

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Man those looks really nice,came out really good.

+1 for the Morimoto XB fog lights upgrade! Just installed them on my 2016 Legacy 2.5i Limited w/ eyesight and I really like them. Much more light further down the road and to the sides than the stock lights. Installation was easy, though the replacement lights needed minor modification for installation.

Yup they do,I have the same fogs but I plan on replacing it with DD ssd3 pro fog lights which is 2-3 times brighter but sae legal.

ok, I guess that would make sense... so when the battery is connected the car thinks it was triggered to start remotely? and I guess that remote start has an auto-shut off after 15 minutes

 

 

any idea what I might be looking for to remove and where it might be?

Have you tried re connecting the battery again?

Here is how you will find out if there’s still remote start in it

Re- connect your battery and if the car started go inside the car and WITHOUT putting your key in ignition just press on the brake pedal it should shut down the car,and that means remote start is still in the vehicle.

I used a Arc PCM its a powerful unit.. U can fully tune a Audio System with USB Cable and Laptop.. Use Multi Amps, Seperate Volume Control Knob if you want..

 

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Do you have a link to that Arc PCM? I might wanna switch time that,I was googling but it only shows for Tv’s

Thanks

You will need Line output converter(LOC)there’s plenty to chose from to add amps.

Are u replacing all stock speakers? Or just adding amp/subs?

 

This is my 6th gen

 

 

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Sounds good enough for me

So how do I make my car louder with more pops? EL headers

 

 

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The only way is going straight pipe or maybe keep yourself stock pipe and have a cutoff valve welded to it so when you’re daughter is with you,you can switch from loud to quiet.

Anyways here’s a sound clip of my stock mid pipe w/resonator and Wrx axle back exhaust.

I have an axle back nameless muffler delete and would I get more rumble/pops/loudness out of my exhaust system if I delete the resonator. I’ve heard that a check engine light can come on if I do this, how can I avoid that would adding a glass pack do any better than the stock resonator or should I full send and straight pipe?

Edit: my daughter who is 8 months old sometimes rides with me very rarely and we have two cars so if straight pipe is to loud it’s not an issue but would it be to much for her?

 

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If you delete resonator it will not throw CEL,unless it’s the catalytic your referring to then yes definitely it will throw CEL.

If you remove resonator it will be very loud,I had a Wrx mid pipe and Wrx axle and no resonator I didn’t last 2 hours with it was so annoying and cannot stand the drone when decelerating..so I left the Wrx axle back but reinstalled stock mid pipe and sound much better not annoying at all.

I have the AFE Power or the Takada Intake.. I love it did see a little MPG Increase on road trips.. Good benefit is you have a air filter that can be cleaned and reused like a K&N..

 

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Kinda miss my takeda intakeshouldn’t have sold it.

I believe that's the piece, here are some photos. In the picture where you can see my hand, if I press there it moves about an inch both ways, that's what made me think screws or fasteners missing.

Yes that piece doesn’t have any screws it’s just the way it is,just make those 3 tabs are lock in.

Thanks so much Grnlantern1

Ya it so just 2 Philip screws 1 on each side just behind steering wheel,you won’t see it till you turn steering wheel left or right.

What’s the proper part number for the 20mm rear sway bar and bushings? I just realized the dealer gave me the wrong one last year, they gave me the 16mm one

 

Edit: just found them, search is better on my computer: 20451VA000 - Bushings 20464VA000 x2

 

Yup that’s the right one!!!big difference feeling from the 16mm stock ones

 

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painted my wheels today

Nice!!,what size are those wheels?did you use spray cans or professional paint job?

I'm having trouble with raptors site but I'm not sure they make headers for the 2.5 in the Gen 6. As for why the STI is "stuck at" 310, I'm not sure it really is. Seems like a choice more than anything. Most people are able to easily surpass that with a reflash.

 

From what I've read UEL headers are OK for low end torque but ELs are better overall especially at the top end of the rev range.

 

Does anyone know if there's a resonator in the stock system? Maybe you could delete that?

Yes there is resonator on stock system

so if I do not remove the motor, how do I depress the piston? I do not have the FSM.

your help is really appreciated.

As I said above use long nose pliers or rent yourself a tool for brakes,

With pads removed use long nose plier to turn the piston clockwise till it STOPS!!DO NOT KEEP TURNING..then use c-clamp or whatever tool you have available that you can use to push the piston back all the way...

Remember to unplug the plug for the motor & don’t forget to plug it back when done!

I am posting here to gain some more visibility. the original thread is here:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/brake-pad-needs-computer-resetii-278860.html?t=278860

 

Is it possible to do the rear brakes at home?

 

Thanks everybody.

so can you share the advice? do I remove the motor? the answer before yours forgets to mention anything about the motor. I have been doing brakes without a proper manual until this hiccup.

You do not need to remove the motor,just make sure to unplug connector before and plug after.

I am posting here to gain some more visibility. the original thread is here:

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/brake-pad-needs-computer-resetii-278860.html?t=278860

 

Is it possible to do the rear brakes at home?

 

Yes it’s not as hard as you think..

Disconnect the plug on the rear of calipers,unbolt either top or bottom or both caliper bolt,remove pads...

Important: you can rent tool from local auto store,or just use long nose pliers

Turn the piston clockwise till it completely stops,then you can press piston back all the way,then install new pads and do the reverse,bolts and DONT FORGET TO PLUG THE PLUG BACK ON,when done pump brake pedal few times,turn key ignition to run or start car and cycle your e-brakes few times.then have some beers.

Thanks everybody.