PATS4LIFE

Wondering if anyone here does much car camping, where they need deep-cycle capability ? I've used a couple Optima Yellowtops over the past 10 years, worked fine, and I'm ready for another. Have read that Optima has gone downhill recently, so I'm looking at alternatives like Northstar AGM or Duralast Platinum.

 

Some of those mention that car alternators aren't good at charging them back up after deep discharge, maybe even causing alternator damage, but like I said I've had no problem with the Optima.

 

Mine car isn't Gen 6, but I imagine the issue are the same, except my car specs a Group 35 (same size as 25, but terminals on opposite side).

Check out Full Throttle batteries!

Heard good stuff about them,I will be trying them out once my red optima craps out.

Also Limitless batteries but they aren’t cheap

Been trying all week to put these on with the new tires. Last garage cross threaded two lugs which has resulted in two studs breaking, and a third messed up. They fixed one, and I'm trying to get them to fix the rear. If not I guess I'll have to. Are the rears difficult?

 

It’s not hard to to replace wheel studs I replaced mine with arp extended wheel studs.

 

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I want to do this some day. The fogs on the legacy are a joke

Yeah I kinda don’t like our stock fogs too,I’m thinking of covering it up and putting something on the middle opening of the bumper,probably a pair of 4” fogs or maybe a pair of 7” jeep headlights

Finally got to install back the stock springs..

If anyone interested my H&R spring will be for sale!!

Ok after getting an alignment,the shop got the alignment on the spot,but when they test drive it car was pulling to the right,and tech said most likely that the caster was off and it’s not adjustable on our car,so my question is is there a way to adjust caster?

Update still have a faint whine from the alternator. Think I will revisit that ground and actually sand that part of the chassis it’s bolted too. If that doesn’t work next step is the in line noise isolator. It all came back when I took the ground loop isolators out but they weren’t allowing my speaker amps to turn on with auto sence. So maybe I run a rem and keep em on or I might try buying new ground loop isolators cuz the ones I was using were miss matched from my box of wires in my basement.

 

 

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HPS intake, Nameless Axleback Exhaust, SSD FSB, Cusco RSB, 20mm rear sway bar, Voxx 18” rims, Infinity Kappa system,

More to come...

Yes that’s I did I sanded all ground points to bare metal,that’s probably why you still have the noise.

ok so I'm running outa stuff to do to the car at this point..... Just got a chrome cover in the mail today for the side mirror control. Side note re-tuned the system for more power which in turn showed up some alternator noise. Ensured I sanded the chassis where the cap is grounded..... added ground loop isolators to both rca runs from the LOC. Helped a bit but still there. I wish my original power noise filter that i installed didnt break on me cuz that thing did work. dont buy axxees brand its really cheaply made. When I took it apart only 1 strand of the power wire was soldered in place. I know I could of fixed it myself but with that issue who knows what others it may have. Tryen to find a good quality one online. Wish RadioShack was still around.

 

Try adding a ground from your alternator casing to chassis.

I have no noise whatsoever I did the big3 and also added that ground wire from alternator casing to chassis.i have the same noise and also static from speakers before but they alll disappeared.

I forgot to add before but my battery died before I started doing my system install so I put in a higher cold crack battery which would be another thing to consider rather then putting 2 battery’s in.

 

 

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HPS intake, Nameless Axleback Exhaust, SSD FSB, Cusco RSB, 20mm rear sway bar, Voxx 18” rims, Infinity Kappa system,

More to come...

Ok cool,I already have red top optima,I’ll just look for a cap,I have one here but only 1K farad.

Ask Grnlantern or look up the thread he made. I think it was apex can’t remember but it’s in the forum guess it’s build to order. I almost went with one but after the system and big3 I don’t have any light dim issues and my amp meter shows I’m in line with what the car puts out as is. But hey if u want it do it just means u have more amps to do more cool stuff.

 

 

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HPS intake, Nameless Axleback Exhaust, SSD FSB, Cusco RSB, 20mm rear sway bar, Voxx 18” rims, Infinity Kappa system,

More to come...

Ah ok cool,I’ll check it out,I don’t have any dimming at all,I’m still thinking about it,eithe I’m going alternator upgrade or just add a second battery,I’m only pushing 2200RMS from 2 amps and 1200rms from subs so maybe stock alt is fine?

Anyone installed a h/o alternator on their 6th gens?

Thinking about putting one maybe 240-300amps alternator but concerned of it’s gonna affect anything on the car such as eyesight and other factory accesories..

Thank you both for the input on the Takeda.. that is the direction I am leaning at this point. I am wondering if anyone else has tried or heard any feed back on the Kakimoto or SYMS compared to Takeda and if they're worth the hassle to procure haha. they look ******* sick.

Just go with takeda,it’s really not worth spending all that money on the other 2 unless you don’t care on how much you spend:)

This is super helpful! I appreciate it, I will check out that spot above the accelerator. I have seen the grommet you mentioned from the engine bay but it looked wicked tight to fit anything in there so I was hesitant and I was unsure what was inside that grommet.

I was able to run 1/0 gauge wire through it so you shouldn’t have issue running your wire through it just be careful of doing it.

Hey, where did you route the power wire through the firewall? I've done hours of research, looking in the engine bay and cant find a place to route it. Did you slip it through a grommet or have to drill? Any photos would be greatly appreciated. I'm at a loss and don't want to take it to a shop for something so seemingly simple

You can cut a slit on the rubber grommet where Main wire harness goes through the firewall but BE CAREFUL not to cut any wires..

Now if you don’t want that route,you can run the cable from battery to behind the fender(driver side)will need to remove the fender well plastic cover, when you look begin the fender just right where fender and door meets you will see a hole going inside the car just above the kick panel.i will be installing my rally armor mud flaps tom I’ll make a small video so I can see..

https://imgur.com/3JeUtfN

 

I don’t know if the picture will come up or not. Here is the link

 

Did you have to modify anything to make the outback front bumper fit?

Pats4life, can I ask why you are going back to stock Springs?

 

My suspension is making all kinds of noise and shop is saying the factory struts might be too long for the H&R sports and they might be loose.

 

Did not seem loose a year ago when I got them installed. I'm inclined to think they were installed wrong and need to be adjusted as many say they are running them.

 

That is why I ask why you are going back. Are yours noisey?

Going back to stock height because I’m tired of scraping my bumper lip,also I have sound system that I just installed which added more weight in the back. Ever since I installed my H&R I’ve never had any type of noise at all, I have a feeling shop installed yours improperly. You might wanna check on your springs before it gets worse.