doublechaz

I must have mis-spoke. I don't think you will need to do all those things. They start to become an issue when it has sat much longer than yours did.

Ah, not at all the shade of pink I was imagining.

Two years is not good, but it also is not a big problem. I resurrected one parked eight years without prep. Its engine was fine after all new hoses, belts and seals. The rest of it was a mess as well, brakes, shocks wheel bearings.... You'll likely have no trouble with just what you've already posted.

With pink wheels on a white car I would be thinking 'Hello Kitty'. Not my thing, but that could turn out cool.

I got my cats from Jegs. Direct fit and they are solid.

Yep about the cover. Can't see the crank shaft nose very well in that pic, but what can be seen looks ok. The keyway and woodruff key are the important bits. That does extent to the timing sprocket behind the accessory pully. That part of the keyway and the timing sprocket must be undamaged or dealt with to circumvent the damage.

If you are a weekend drive away from Central Arizona I'd be happy to take a look at it. I have specific experience with this problem. Otherwise there is always working out photos.

That may help and would be a lot safer for the injectors. You can barely get to the tips that way, but if you can figure out how to push cleaner backwards from there while pulsing them quickly with a battery....

The two screws are pretty tight so be careful not to strip them. Once they are out you have to pry the injectors out. It is extremely easy to break them doing this. Some rotation first helps, but everything is a danger to breaking the injector tops. You could try getting the screws out and the cover off and then lightly tap the top of the injector with a plastic mallet while it is trying to run, but that probably won't do anything. If it does then you might be able to get away with running some injector cleaner through. The in tank cleaner won't do anything if no gas is flowing through the injector. It won't choose not to spark the non fueling cylinders as far as not sending the signal, but being wasted spark it is less likely to spark in plain air compared to fuel air mix.

I would say the two most likely causes for problems that profound would be burned up and plugged catalytic converter, or jumped timing belt if the problem is with the engine. If the problem is with the auto trans, that's outside my experience.

Cargo area trim and maybe headliner out to get at the little nuts on the back of that trim. Not my favorite.

Finally decided to pull my spare new headlight assemblies from inventory and install them. Much nicer than the 10+ year old units. I kept all my LED internals since they are like new. And the huge shocker is that I actually aimed them so I'm not blinding everyone else on the road. I wish the other 99.7% of people could be bothered to aim their lights.

I'm fairly sure I swapped mine when I got a new rack, but that was a few years ago.

This weekend it was too cold and windy for real outside projects. So I brought in the radar detector for a firmware update. Better than nothing.

Looks great. Even wet I can tell your paint is better than mine.

The hard part is figuring out what is lacking during the problem. You need spark, fuel, and air that get compressed and then burned. Compression doesn't come and go across the entire engine like that so we can ignore that for now. You should have a mechanical throttle not an electronic throttle so we can ignore air for now. That leaves fuel and spark. These are both a little harder to figure out because you don't just need them, but you need them also to happen at just the right time. In the previous problem it is likely that you were capable of spark, but with an intermittent cam sensor you didn't know when to spark and so it just skipped it. There are a bunch of electrical things that could be stopping either or both of fuel and spark. Sounds like this happens when something is hot and after it cools it works again. Best plan would be if you can drive it around the block dozens of times so you don't get far from home while waiting for it to exhibit the problem. But not everyone lives in a place where the roads would allow for this. If it were mine I would drive it to failure, and then pull out my tools and remove a spark plug. If you do this after a bunch of tries to start it and the plug is wet with gas you have fuel and likely lack spark. With it out you can check if you and an assistant can see the spark happen. You should be able to find a youtube video about verifying spark. If you lack both fuel and spark you likely have a sensor problem where the ECU has lost sync with the mechanical bits and doesn't know when to do fuel or spark. From there we can start to check more specific things. One good thing to check on our older cars is electrical grounds. By check I mean unscrew it, sand or wire bush all the wire rings and the attach point clean, and reassemble. If they are rusty they can make a good sensor fail to deliver data and stop the ECU from running the engine.

I don't expect it to be worst case. Probably the leak happens when the system is good and hot and pressure is up from that. Could also have an intermittent problem with the radiator cap that builds more pressure some times than others. I'm sure that garage will have you sorted out in no time.

A couple points to watch out for since you said you are new to this. Never use any kind of water in the cooling system besides distilled unless it is a 'get me out of downtown Detroit' emergency level. In that case, use the cleanest purest water possible. Doing this work will get a lot of air into the system that has to come out before you can drive it normal. There are some special tools that help a lot, but the simplest, if you can manage it, is to have the front of the car significantly higher than the rear. If there is enough air in the system it can make false readings on the temperature gauge to where you can be seriously overheating and not know it. Before I had special tools and more than very basic knowledge I did burp out that air by driving at high engine RPM (low gear) up a very steep hill very close to my house. Worked a treat, but if you don't have such a hill closer than normal warm up time, or you would like to do it more correctly...

+1 to Osei. Let's actually look at the car for a sec before we jump to head gasket and pay big bucks by saying 'head gasket' to a mechanic. edit: Finally got the video to work. That is absolutely not a head gasket leak shown. It is either the lower radiator hose, or the radiator near where the lower hose goes in. You can't drive it or even run it much with a leak that bad. First is to get a look from close up when it isn't scalding hot to see exactly what is leaking and then we can go from there.

The car has been abused for 25 years and now it's broke? What a crap manufacturer! They sure don't deserve a good reputation.

Sounds like the drive gear on the motor is gone.

Without the cam sensor the ECU won't know if you are on an even or odd crank rotation so won't know when to fire the injectors or the coils. The coolant sensor will leave you running rich because the ECU won't know you are warmed up past startup enrichment.

Found two anti-personnel grenades in mine. Some a$$hat company named Takata left them in there. Managed to get them out without dying and without removing more than the negative battery lead and the glove box. I guess that company was really dumb because I can't even go after them since they went out of business. YMMV.

That's where I got mine.

You should have closer to 30psi fuel unless there is essentially zero vacuum integrity. Sounds like a major intake component disconnected or tore open. Was there a bunch of clutch dumps or neutral drops involved? Do you have worn out engine mounts?