doublechaz

Hm. Now we know why I'm not an AT tech. We've already run through everything I know about them.

Does the FSM refer to a solenoid for TC lockup? Going out all at once makes me think of a burned out solenoid. If there is one I expect there is a test you can do for resistance between two pins on its connector. The other test for such is to apply power and ground on two pins and listen for the solenoid to click.

I work at a Subaru dealer and I guarantee that the only fix for what YOU did is to buy a new 2022 Legacy. There is no other fix. OK, that's all a lie. There are far too many dealers that straight lie to maximize how much money they car rape out of their customers. I don't know much about the 4EAT, but it sounds like your converter is not locking up when commanded hence this code. Could be the converter clutch, a solenoid, wiring connectors, the valve body, the TCM, bad electrical grounds making the solenoid or TCM misbehave. Did you previously have a different trans code for a long time that indicated the lockup was weak, or do you drive it like a racecar? That would add weight to the clutch idea. If it started suddenly with this code that would add more weight to the valve body or solenoid idea. If it was intermittent for some time that would add more weight to the wiring ideas. Best would be if you have the FSM and can run through the multimeter diag tests for the lockup aspects.

It's not in the engine bay, it's under the car near the downstream sensor. The bit on the left edge of the photo is the transmission oil pan for an auto trans. Location will be similar if you have a manual trans.

Yes, the carrier is in the middle of the drive shaft. Good idea on the diff bushings as well. Finding noises is not easy. Another thing you can try if you can't find someone to help is to do the test next to a building or a retaining wall that the sound can bounce off. It helps to be able to position with a wall on one side and then the other. It's pretty hard to find one for each side where traffic and background noise work well for this.

I don't know about the swap, but your current symptoms sound like a dead trans or engine mount, or less likely a ujoint or the carrier bearing. Ideally you would have an assistant shift it back and forth from forward to reverse while you have the hood up standing beside the car, not in front, watching and listening for the origin of the noise. Also, on the ground beside the car, not in front, if a lower angle is needed. I rate the 5MT as fine when it is asked to do what it was designed to do. If you are going to run double the torque through it that the designers expected, then yeah, it will blow up. If you are going to run 250 ft lb then go with the STI trans that was designed for that. If you are going higher then you'll either have to go built or accept the failures. Passenger car tires fail when you put 70 psi in them. Guns blow up when you make your own ammo with double the powder. Your ankles will break if you jump 19 feet.

I wouldn't have thought the TStat could do this either until I lived it. There isn't much in a Subaru to make muck in the system. Aluminum block and heads, aluminum radiator and crossover pipe. Rubber hoses. If it was a 1970 iron V8 I would vote for flush it, in this case I would let it ride and keep an eye on it.

Undo the various electrical grounds in the engine bay, clean them and put back. Also, check that the three big multi pin connectors on the top right of the engine where it joins the bell housing are firmly connected.

I should point out that I held a "top quality" Napa tstat next to a Subaru Genuine tstat. The part that opens was half the size on the parts store unit as on the OE unit. Only run a dealer tstat. The parts store unit did lead to temps in the 205 to 220 range where the OE unit runs 175 to 190.

Could be a sketchy radiator cap. Part of it's function is to build pressure in the system so it doesn't boil as easy, but not so much pressure that your hoses pop. When pressure gets high it dumps into the bottle, and is supposed to suck it back when it cools. Perhaps the cap has something borderline with the spring and gasket that makes it dump to the bottle easier sometimes than others. EDIT: I did see a video where an after market radiator had the filler made wrong so the cap could not possibly seal correctly. I think that was Uncle Tony's Garage. Just to say that all parts these days are junk and we have to second guess them. If the system was actually tight you could go over night without losing a PSI. That could be the cap. It could be something else. If you put that pressure in with the system actually full of coolant and no coolant comes out on the ground or into the cylinders or oil, then I would say it is the slight bit of air above the water going out from the cap to the bottle. It could also be something about the test gear you are using as well.

I haven't done it, but I believe that trans harness swap involves making sure a particular wire is grounded or not or maybe a loop closed or not. That tells the ECU if it is manual or auto. There are references to it around here somewhere. That is to say, the ECU is the same and there is a wire signal to tell it whether to talk to a TCU or not.

Sounds like the ABS is full of air. I don't have it so never learned it, but the FSM should give a procedure for how to bleed the ABS. You can download it around here somewhere.

You said you jumped timing. If you didn't take the timing belt off and put it back in correct time no amount of parts changing will make it run.

Maybe it's different for narrow band vs wide band. I'll be sure to take out my wide band and pop in one of my working pull narrows if/when I do this. Just to be sure...

This procedure is in the FSM. They call out ACDelco Upper Engine and Fuel Injector Cleaner. I have the bottle of stuff, but I have not performed the procedure. I have not used SeaFoam either. I don't know the contents of either product.

+1 to the starter. There is a ring on the shaft internal to the starter. When the solenoid pushes the pinion forward into the flywheel (clack) this ring makes the high amperage connection needed to turn the starter by hitting a pair of tabs. The ring and tabs get burned a little on starting and by 150k to 200k it typically gives up. When it happens to land on a less burned part it works (and tests) perfect. If it lands on a more burned part it fails. If you are stranded somewhere you can often get it to work again by giving it a good hit with the end of an ice scraper or similar. Don't use something metal. I once saw a guy blow off his finger when his wedding band connected the big red wire to ground. Both the ring and the finger were no more than a dark stain in the engine bay. When I first ran in to this starter problem years ago, money was a big problem. I was able to disassemble my starter and clean the ring and tabs and bend them slightly for better contact. That got me about another 15k miles. By then I could get another starter. It was not OE and did not last very long, a couple years. The OE I got after that lasted at least another 150k. It has done it a couple times more recently in hot conditions. I have a new OE starter in the foot well so I don't get stranded somewhere.

I just drove 4000 miles and it wiped my memory so forgive me if I'm repeating myself. When you first get in turn the key to run, but give it a three count before you try to start it. If it starts better that way it is a little slow to build fuel pressure. If it was 1997 it would hold the pressure for days so starts would be smooth. If the check valve in the pump, or the pressure regulator weep a little, or an injector or its seals leak a tiny bit, then the pressure bleeds down to zero when parked and it takes the pump a bit to catch up. If it is really noticeable dig in to it, otherwise just let it have that slight pause in key use at startup. I forget if you have measured fuel pressure during driving. If it is a little low all the time, perhaps it is correcting for that with fuel trims except during tip-in.

Yeah, I squeeze under there that way. These are OE rubber end links, no urethane to grease there. Plenty of grease on all the bits that are. I'll probably go out and put it back together tonight since today is also not 115F out. That way I can take out the exhaust pressure setup and put the wideband back in.

Removed one end link from my front swaybar to prove that is where the "control arm breaking off" sound is coming from. It is. These are nearly new OE parts, so anyone have advice on how to assemble or lube this stuff so it is as silent as it used to be? I don't really want to replace it with all Whiteline since I drive on what many people consider to be "not a road" and appreciate the extra articulation of not having an extra stiff road setup.

I miss my first gen. Took a whole Junk to kinda replace it. Sorry, I meant Jeep.

I believe the 2nd gen started in 94 in most markets and 95 in the USDM market. I would say besides that, look up pictures for 93 and 96. If your vehicle looks like the 93, then they won't fit. If yours matches the 96 pictures, then the 95 USDM lights should fit. You'll see what I mean in the pics, the two generations have quite different headlights, but within one gen they are all the same, projector/conventional notwithstanding.

Catch one and broil it for me to dream about. Grew up in Michigan. Live in Arizona. Can't beat fish you caught a couple hours ago.

That is a lot of difference, but there is a lot of turbulence up there with the cross bars on. I don't do that well around town, but that is because I installed the binary gas pedal mod. Highway only I can get up around 29.

Sounds like you got the check stuff right and the level right. Had to double check as through the net diags are really hard to do. Yes, if you overfill you'll know pretty much the next drive cycle, so can't really be that. The steering part is not connected even though it uses the same juice. I like what you've come to for next steps. We'll keep working on it until it's solved.

The only two reasons I can think of why ATF would come out of the breather like that is if 1) it is way over full, or 2) there is a failure in the heat exchanger allowing coolant to push into the ATF passage. I think if there was coolant mixing in you would not have clean red looking ATF. Let's start with busting out the owner's manual and making sure you are checking the level correctly. If it is too full you will have to drain some out. Running it too full will also froth it up so it will not really be possible to get an accurate reading until it has sat long enough for all the air to come out. Watch out on the fluid. There is a dipstick for the front differential that I think takes gear oil on the 4EAT, and another one for the ATF for the trans. Be sure you are draining and filling the correct one with the correct stuff.