doublechaz

Is this 0304 a constant miss, or is it mostly running? If it is constant I would pull the plug right after a run and see if it is wet with fuel as it should be if spark is the issue. If it is dry the issue is probably that injector. If you didn't pay about $100+ for the injector, I would start there, major problem with counterfeit and junk injectors going around. You could check this by swapping two injectors and see if the problem follows. Of course you have to be real careful to not roll an o-ring during all of this. I would also inspect the injector harness for the health of the pins. Also, and easiest so start here, you can use a stethescope to listen for each injector clicking as it cycles to see if the #4 sounds different from the others. For the spark side of things you can use a timing light on each plug wire to see if the impulse is happening on each of them. You can use a multi meter to check the resistance of the sections of the coil, but being a wasted spark system if the coil was bad you should get a miss on two cylinders, not just one. Same with the ignitor driving the coil. I've seen it where you don't get a connection where the plug wire goes on to the coil, especially if you are using dielectric grease. What happens usually is that the boot traps some air as it goes on and it then pushes the wire back off the post and no connection. I carefully use a tiny tool like a jeweler's screw driver or a bit of weed whip line laid along the post while I push the wire on to leave a path for the air to escape. When the wire is seated then you pull out the tool and Robert is your Father's brother. I think that should get things started and then based on the results we can try some other steps if needed.

I have one in the Prescott, AZ area that needs rebuilt. If you need it, we can meet up and you can have it. I was supposed to send it in as core when I bought another years ago. That car is gone, but this part might be kinda rare now, so if it can go to a good home...

Sounds like you have a factory service manual, so that will answer if it has one or not. It may be too early of a year to have one, I'm not sure when they got mandated.

What wtdash said, plus if there is a rollover valve/sensor for that model/year it could cut spark as well as fuel.

The seals showed up ahead of schedule so I got the diff buttoned up. I made it part way through getting it back in the car. The main hangup was getting the two bushings into the cross member to support the rear of the diff. They just wanted to kick sideways. Took a few tries using my seal and bearing press dies and threaded rod to get them to go in. It took me two jacks, two cement blocks and a ratchet strap to lift, tilt and support the diff and outriger and then pull it back into the rear mounting holes while lying in the dirt under the car on ramps. All that is left is pulling the parking brake cables to get them routed correctly again as the outrigger wouldn't behave, and then put the shields and exhaust back. All this would have been a lot less unpleasant if I had a lift or a pit.

Found out that the differential axle seals from RockAuto are both wrong. Too small to go in the holes. Theirs are 1.976" diameter. What they should be is 2.05". Great thing to find out over the weekend with everything torn apart. Should have taken time off work so I could visit the local Subaru dealer during their very short hours. That pretty much pushes my whole project back a week.

Cool to hear it is running so much better.

Forgot to mention that the dial indicator and the gear pattern show that there is absolutely nothing wrong with my rear diff at 310k. So all that movement at the pinion must have been in the ujoint (it was dark and extremely crowded under there for my failed eyes). Still, while I have it out I'll clean and re-seal everything. Now on to drive shaft and carrier bearing work.

No. That is why there is an adjustment specification for it.

As much as I feel I am very hard on mine, I must be doing something right with the shifts to keep it from jumping. I hope that doesn't change with the whiteline diff bushings.

I have it on the way, but I've driven about 150,000 race like miles without one, so I'll just put it on a shelf until I do the next timing refresh. I sure will do my best to position it and loktite it in place. At least getting one end timing cover off to check is easy.

RJNakata, thanks. That was easy. I'm pretty confident that it will fit. If it fits ej25 and ej22 in gen III it should fit ej25 and ej22 in gen II. Only thing that changed about timing through that period is the number of sensor teeth on the timing sprocket.

Today I removed the rear diff and cradle to do the bushings. Seems like the pinion bearings are done. That would account for the sometimes bearing sounds coming from the rear. I'll figure out which of my diffs are in the best shape and see if I can find a shop to rebuild one or sell me the bearings and seals so I can.

FWIW, I'm suspicious of one of my rear wheel bearings that have only about 50k on them. They were all marked Timkin, but there is still the small chance that they were Chimkin. I'll be checking such any time now as I'm taking mine offline to do the diff bushings and rear cradle bushings. The only ones I didn't think of when I did the big 250k refresh.

BTW, where would I get such a guide? My manual has never had one, so it must have been left out on a job before I got it. I would say Subaru dealer only, but I'm finding more and more parts that they say they don't have and won't get. I keep forgettin' to check the ones I see in the junk yard.

I've had parts store brake parts that don't fit out of the box. A rotor 35 thousandths too thick. Rear shoes that have backings that rub, or maybe the drums weren't machined deep enough. Pads where the backing won't slot onto the calliper. That's all Napa parts because I find the other chains' parts to be much worse. We're just racing to the bottom.

Before video: After video: The bushings: http://mynet.whitehat-inc.com/subaru/bushings.jpg Got everything in tonight and only super smashed my thumb once. To undo the shifter linkage with the trans in the car you pretty much have to be in 5th to get the two roll pins oriented where the trans mount is not in the way. The trans mount doubles as a great anvil if you want to smash your thumb. Once the pins are out remove the linkage from inside, swap the bushings, feed it back down through the hole in the tunnel, go underneath and get the linkage on the shaft and get those pins back in. EDIT: figured out that the videos were in private mode.

You mean some people don't drive max G all the time? I guess that's why people don't ride with me.

I've turned all the bits, but I haven't had time to install them.

Took all the measurements to make some shifter linkage bushings from polypropylene. It was nice for a while after I did my trans swap years ago, but that was just picking the best of my OE sets. They are completely shot now. Wiggling in first looks like wiggling in neutral should look. The new set should make it really crisp and notchy. I'll try to remember to take before and ater video once I get them turned and ready to install.

Someone should grab it. If you weren't 2500 miles away and if I didn't already have four project cars...

>Say what you want about Subaru axles but not one of mine are original with 230K on the car and the first failure was just out of warranty. The axle boot is next to the hot exhaust and often sends the right front one on its way out very quickly in most, if not all, Subarus. Unless you maintain your car. I've never had a boot failure on my Subaru in 310k because I learned on previous cars to maintain them. Also, the 5MT is total junk. I mean every guy that has taken a 200 ft lb engine and turbo'ed it to the moon and pushed 450+ ft lb through it has resulted in breakage. Subaru screwed us all by actively not choosing to put a D9 dozer trans in to support the few people that want more powah!

I'm pretty sure a 20 year old Subaru doesn't use the 1234af which essentially entered the marked 4 years ago. Further, I'm sure you could destroy your AC system by putting the wrong refrigerant in it.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls Put your VIN in and it will tell you all the recalls that apply to your car and whether they were already done in your case.

I'm at about 310K on mine and I wouldn't dream of totaling the car over an engine out repair. I've done engine out, clutch, burn 4 hours driving around for parts and food and stuff, and engine back in before dark on a Saturday.