andrew_l_s

My guess would be your software is different than what we get in the US. I know your buttons are opposite of what ours are which may have something to do with it.

^^I too was surprised that they were actually doing it, given that the mod market for our cars is significantly less than that of the WRX. Now we need to find somebody to actually make the front lip and maybe a spoiler too:lol:

That is for cars with the 7" head unit but no nav.

I didn't jump the gun, waited a full 30 sec each time, and my part 2 update failed. I don't think the 30 second thing has to be that exact, presumably just enough time for a full shutdown is all that's necessary. I didn't know about the failure at the time of creating the video otherwise I would have noted the second attempt and DB version check. Don't feel like filming more, editing again, and re-uploading sooo:rolleyes:

Swap sides with the bulbs - if it's a bulb alignment issue it should appear on the right, if it's a projector issue it'll stay on the left.

Correct, nav for nav cars, the display audio for non-nav cars. I used the top port but it shouldn't matter. There's a link in the youtube video description but here it is: https://content.subarunet.com/snet/business/service/forms/audio_downloads.htm I realized today while out driving that I wasn't getting nav prompts on the instrument cluster. The second update went quite quickly but I didn't think anything of it at the time. Sure enough like you mentioned my DB version didn't match the others. I'm currently reloading it and it's taking significantly longer which leads me to believe it will be successful this time. I'll report back when it finishes. --------Update-------- Ok part 2 redo just finished, after restarting the car it gave me the "Updating software" screen rather than going straight to the Starlink logo and loading up. Instrument cluster compass and upcoming turn info works, vehicle customization works, and the DB version matches the others.

Enjoy the elevator music:p EDIT: Multiple people have noted that the second update goes quite quickly. If it does, check the DB version under the Unit Version Information screen, it's the last thing on the list so scroll all the way down. If the number listed is not NU9017, run the second update again. Symptoms involved with an unsuccessful installation of part 2 include instrument cluster compass and nav directions not working, as well as the inability to access vehicle customization options from the head unit.

Doing the update right now. I'm making a how to video, will post the link when it's done.

Just recently emailed them, timeline I was given was first half of 2017. The more time it takes the more money I have to save up for other headlight mods to do while they're opened up. Like bi-xenon projectors. Because triple high beams (stock + Hellas + bi-xenons) is appealing to me:lol:

Since 4300k is the typical stock HID color and 5000k-6000k is the typical stock LED color, if you're in that range nobody would be able to tell unless they looked under the hood.

This website is the bomb when it comes to figuring out what sizes will be best. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator Plug in the tire sizes and it gives the % difference in diameter. Oh and this tool is amazing for checking clearances, it tells you exactly how much closer you'll be to the suspension and wheelwells. It's not completely necessary to take measurements and plug in the correct clearances, I use it more to see how much farther in/out they'll sit and then check on the car to see if the room is there. http://www.wheel-size.com/calc/ Here's 245/40R19 compared to stock. 1/2% difference in size is barely anything, and 8.5 is in the middle of the rim width range so you're good there as well.

How does this work:confused: I'm intrigued, please elaborate if you can

If they were actually fog lights I'd understand but they're really just auxiliary foreground lights, hence why you can't run them without headlights by default. I run mine all the time cause they're my DRLs. An option would be to disconnect them and rewire on a separate switch but chances are you'll get "SRF disabled" and a little on the dash.

How about just turn your fog lights on? Then they don't go back and forth.

That could definitely be a factor as well. Based on Tire Rack's specs the tread depth of the Outback's stock Bridgestone Dueler is 2/32 less than the Firestone Winterforce, which would've been enough to clear it. Plus the tread width is skinnier so like you said, more rounded off versus squared.

How close is it to the spring perch up front? Can you get a shot like this? (For reference this is my current setup, not the snow tires that rubbed) http://i.imgur.com/StLMeGU.jpg My only thought is the tread was deeper on the snow tires I test fitted which made them rub.

Thinking about dipping my 17" WRX winter wheels before I get them mounted up. White or gold? My car is Twilight Blue. http://imgur.com/6eAG6Ev.jpg http://imgur.com/nlgzAYd.jpg http://imgur.com/3e5I2jq.jpg http://imgur.com/U3VX8m5.jpg

Not sure how you can say for certain that I'm creating glare for other drivers without actually driving towards me on the road at night...because I actually have driven towards my car at night with another vehicle and it's a non-issue for low or high riding vehicles. That test was done with a halogen reflector headlight. Few will argue that HID in a reflector housing is a terrible idea. Like multiple people in that thread stated, in a projector likely the only thing that would fail is foreground lighting. But without testing no one can say for sure. Exactly. Every headlight is different. I tested mine for the same reason. For me at least, my own testing trumps said Internet lawyers making blanket statements. In the eyes of the law, I'm wrong. I'm not denying that. In terms of claiming all HID kits in halogen projectors are a glaring danger to other drivers, you're wrong. I've seen my fair share of blinding HIDs in lifted trucks and the like. Based on my testing mine aren't blinding. If you want to come to my house and do your own testing with my car, feel free:) but unless you do you can't say with certainty that mine are a safety hazard to others.

Can't disagree with the legality, however no cop is going to pull you over as they couldn't tell unless your lights are some horrid shade of purple or something obviously not stock. Self-leveling is really only necessary when the trunk or backseat have a significant amount of weight in them. If you regularly drive with them loaded simply adjust the lights while carrying a typical load. Our projectors have a perfect cutoff with the XD HIDs. When I first got mine I did quite a bit of testing to ensure I wouldn't blind everybody, and found the only difference in beam pattern when compared to a halogen bulb was a larger central hotspot. No crazy scattered light, no stray beams with the potential for glare. It's not like dropping an HID into a halogen reflector, which creates a Christmas light show's worth of stray light. A retrofit would no doubt be better, output would probably be increased too thanks to higher quality lenses and better optics. I've done a retrofit on a friend's car, really not that hard just time consuming. My goal some day is a bi-xenon retrofit like im2c0ol did, maybe when the c-light switchbacks come out I'll kill 2 birds with one stone.

No problem! I've had my HIDs for almost a year now and so far they've been great, zero issues. Highly recommend XenonDepot's kits. Because we have too dang many:lol:

DRL disable is unnecessary as our low and high beams are separate bulbs. Unless you're planning to put HIDs in the high beams, which pretty much everyone recommends against doing due to repeated on-off being hard on them.

Based on side shots it might actually sit slightly higher, at least on the front edge, presumably for ground clearance purposes. Only thing different for the Outback would be the fog light assemblies. Everything else - headlights, fenders, hood, are all the same.

My car is not a PZEV model however I haven't heard about PZEV's having a charcoal filter. I had a K&N before going to the Takeda. Don't know that I really noticed any difference with the K&N compared to stock, it's just something my dad's been doing forever and I followed lol. Any difference in power from just a filter is pretty miniscule, if you're looking for gains, intake + tune. If all you want is a washable filter and to save a little money in the long run go K&N or AEM.

No they will not. I tried, just barely rubbed on spring perch. 55's should be fine.

^^not sure what you mean... http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Kumho&tireModel=Solus+TA71&partnum=25WR8TA71 http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Signature+HP&partnum=25WR8SIGHP Both come in stock size. Wouldn't hurt to go a little wider tho if that's your goal.