waldguy

Extreme Contact DWS06 installed a couple weeks ago. Drove on ice and snow -- better than any other 3 season tire I've driven. Pretty impressive.

I doubt you'll find anyone on this forum who has had a failed axle. You may be referring to wheel bearings, which do remain an ongoing issue for some. If so, you'll find some like experiences here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/anyone-wheel-bearing-issuesi-258583.html

No inspection. All vehicles have the parts replaced if your number has been called.

Did a drain and fill, 4.5 litres out, 4.5 litres in, at 78,000 Km (about 50K mi). I did this being influenced by the Japanese service interval recommendation (36K mi). Oil looked very clear, almost new. In addition, the CVT oil degredation only read 2.3% on the OBDII app. Still, I figure it can't hurt -- I'll do it again at 80K mi or so. On another note, the service guy at the dealer insisted it would take 10 litres, and that the capacity was 14 litres. I didn't argue -- just bought the extra to save for next time (echoes back to the dealer insisting on the engine oil being 6L when I said it was 5L). Sigh.

The valve sits above the underbody plastic panel, and so, unless that was also ripped off, there won't be a problem with the Fumoto style valves and possums, coyotes, porcupines, skunks etc. -- avoidance is still recommended!

Sometimes you get an oil burner. In Canada, 8 years or 160,000 kms, there is a Warranty enhancement: "If the vehicle has a yellow oil level indicator light and the light comes on before the next 10,000 km service, return the vehicle to the dealership where the dealership will perform a mileage check and an accurate oil consumption calculation. If the calculation shows oil consumption greater than 1 litre per 6,000 km, the engine will be repaired. If it is less, the vehicle is operating as designed and no further action is required." https://www.subaru.ca/WebPage.aspx?WebSiteID=282&WebPageID=21674 Usually Canada just does what Subaru USA does (or not quite as good). Talk to your dealer about the consumption test. (1000 miles is about 1600 km; 1 litre about 1 quart)

A short search will get you a long way. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/gen-6-battery-replacement-info-278179.html?t=278179&highlight=battery+replacement

I'm using an anti-glare screen cover for the last 5 years. I have no problem reading the screen with my polarized sun glasses. I have no problem with reflection. It's not that complicated to install, and just a few bucks.

Judging from the comments on the video below, it's amazing how many people go to drain the engine oil and end up doing a transmission flush (if only partial)! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5xbnpTYk0s One comment reports bringing the car to an oil change joint. One guy at the shop drained the transmission fluid while another overfilled the engine oil. Yikes. A few lessons to be learned from this one.

Fuel issue?

^^^ If you have an exhaust leak it's usually not hard to detect. You'll smell it inside the car if in a calm environment. Or just take a peak under the car when the car is just started and you may well be able to see it coming from underneath, especially with a little rev to the engine.

When plugged in to an OBDII car monitor, I found the voltage increased to my battery most when slowing down, likely resulting in the most charging during that condition. Maybe someone can comment whether this is indeed the case. My driving style typically avoids short braking times -- I rather allow the car to coast. I don't have the battery update on my ECM, and haven't found a problem with low charges even with the original battery. The car has been sitting for 20 days (some people aren't getting out much lately!!). Voltage on my Redtop is reading 12.15 V.

Fortunately it's cold enough around here right now that everyone uses gloves on the fuel pump nozzle anyway! As it warms, yes, take precautions. Everything that's a "hand"le will be a potential carrier. At the pumps? There always been the tissues to clean the mirrors, etc. to use if gloves aren't handy. Then again the people that didn't get the toilet paper might just be pilfering tissues from the gas stations!

Read this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-diff-fluid-change-275863.html Note the three plugs and manual description. Also here: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-diff-fluid-change-275863.html Sometimes a bit of heat to the plug will help -- ensure it's clean to the bottom as well.

Hmm - parts are available in Alaska, but apparently not in my neck of the woods. I think they are delaying anything that's not obviously broke to take care of those that are. Also, the longer they delay, the less there will be a need to replace over time. And, frankly, I'm OK with it as long as the system has no leaks.

Plugs only need replacing when the arc hits the electrode enough times to erode the electrode past specs. Parked time makes no difference. Keep driving to at least 60K.

I took a big rock hit near the rear view mirror, with star pattern damage too big to repair. I thought for sure it would travel with our huge temperature swings. After four years, the original is still holding. Note that there has been some limited coverage by Subaru for failure due to the design flaw in the windshield warming area under the wipers: https://subaru.oemdtc.com/384/windshield-cracking-concerns-2015-2016-subaru-legacy-outback That said, it appears to be a Subaru weak point and some drivers have replaced up to four windshields. See site comments of the following for a little casual reading. https://beranek.agrrmag.com/2015/12/subaru-extends-windshield-warranty/ https://info.glass.com/spontaneous-windshield-breakage/

I would suggest that 89 miles is not sufficient to determine a drop due to the possibility of varied weather and traffic conditions. In addition, using the computer estimate could also be problematic due to recalculation (as above post indicates). I'd only get concerned if, after a couple of tanks, actual fuel consumption was higher as measured at the pump.

Surprising for sure. Was there any possibility someone, at some time dumped in an additive, or added some non-OEM fluid?

I don't have any smell. But I did get the first letter. For the record:

Well put. Pretty much every oil is "thin" at operating temperature. During the cool down, the hot "thicker" oil is not going to leave a film on the metal parts any more than than the thinner oil. The phase where wear is at greatest risk is start-up and warm-up. That's the time the thinner oil is most desirable -- it flows freely when cool and gets those moving parts lubricated. 5w30 will probably be acceptable for longer term use, but 0w20 is likely to protect better. I wouldn't listen to the logic of a local dealer on this one. When I picked up my new car, the dealer was adamant that my engine took 6 liters. I told him the car takes 5 (I read the manual before I picked up the car). He said that was the previous generation. I disagreed, but bought one extra liter for a spare. I haven't used a spare liter in 5 years.

Lifetime air filter here. Works great. Relatively clean environment. Shoot, cars never used to have any cabin air filters.

Was this a general quote of their costs for various items, or a specific quote for service based on your specific car at this time?

I'm not sure why people go looking for a better solution to the manufacturers recommendations. The engineers who designed the engine build it with the oil characteristics in mind. They know a heck of a lot more about the flow and the lubrication qualities needed within the tolerances they've specified. I'll default to the MFR recommendations over forum banter 100 out of 100 times.

I had to smile at your problem after reading your post title (conundrum =an intricate and difficult problem). Intricacy - what whitetiger said. Difficult - not really! A tolerance of 2% to 8% is considered industry acceptable. In my experience, most speedos read a little fast -- maybe to keep you from getting as many speeding tickets. Mine reads about 1-2 mph faster at 60 mph than actual. My tires are also at about 5/32. So expect some variance. If you think 1 mph is too much read this (caution, uses km/h!): https://www.ctvnews.ca/autos/speed-check-how-fast-are-you-really-driving-1.3445497