waldguy

Liquid can be frozen in the tube without being frozen in the reservoir. If you don't have a puddle under the car, and the pump is functioning, you have a blockage in the lines. Not being "terribly cold" is a little hard to quantify. 20F? 25F? Drive it into a heated or warmer area for an hour or so. Does it work then?

Mine makes random noises as well. It possibly seems related to a change in the automatic control, but not necessarily. It has done it since new and doesn't bother me much as it's not constant.

Attached is the 2018 Subaru announcement from the outback thread, as well as the 2016-2017 announcement re: default CVT warranty extension.2016_2017_CVT_Customer_Letter_Sept_2018.pdf Subaru 2018 CVT 100K 10Yr Warranty Extension.pdf

More info on the warranty in this thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cvt-warranty-extension-my-2016-2017-and-now-my-2018-275654.html You can download the PDF of the TSB attached to the first post by ammcinnis. The warranty also applies to Canadian vehicles.

2016 and over 60,000 km they won't replace the battery anyway. Just look to see if it's the Johnson Controls 350 Cranking Amps original or if it's already been replaced with something more robust. If you're going to let it sit a week or more then want to start it on a cold day, I'd want more battery. Lots of recommendations for batteries in the forum - Group 34 is pretty common, and fits perfectly with the 1" spacer that often comes with them.

Don't forget that this CVT is warranted for 10 years and 100,000 miles in the USA and Canada. Cost to replace is the inconvenience. Further, this is an exceptional situation. Failure happens to anything mechanical, and this is the first report on this 6th Gen forum of anything like this. I'd be more concerned at multiple incidences. If you want to answer questions about overall reliability, read the reviews on Cars.com or Edmunds or Consumer Reports for a more balanced view.

Stock battery is undersized but it did OK for me. It cranked OK even when car was left in -30 degree weather for six hours. It never went dead. It kept everything going in our Canadian prairie winters, even with heated seats. I did put it on the charger a couple of times a year. Given the time of 56 months in service, today I pulled it from the car. Tested 12.62 volts. Replacement: Redtop Optima, which hopefully goes for as long as I own the car.

An article from 2014 says 70mA for all models at that time. Current models shouldn't be much different I would think. It also appears to be an excellent tutorial for testing: https://subaru.oemdtc.com/583/measurement-of-dark-current-parasitic-battery-draw-subaru

There are a bunch of reasons for higher fuel consumption in cold weather: -Denser air to push -Colder engine to warm up -Tire resistance -Slippage on icy surfaces -Plowing snow -Oil thicker (0w20 not much!) -Grease slower to thin (try riding a bike in -20) -Fuel blends (eg. more ethanol = less BTU )

These are calculated from the odometer reading and the volume of fuel into the tank. My lifetime average is 31 US mpg (calculated), which will edge down slightly after driving another winter. I rarely push the car hard.

Seasonal mpg roller coaster for my car:

It may not be to everyone at all. There are many recalls which affect vehicles made between certain dates. Those with other build dates would never be notified. For example, Recall on Cars.com says, "(Subaru) is recalling certain 2015 and 2016 model year Subaru Legacy 4-Door and Outback vehicles manufactured July 3, 2015, to July 27, 2015. Transmission oil may leak from a deformed seal cap on the propeller shaft yoke. If the transmission oil leaks onto the exhaust pipe, there is a possible risk of fire." This may or may not be what you are referring to but is an example of a build date recall.

Yup - the sample will have included very few if any Legacies in this generation. Some argue there has been a decline in quality in the latest generations, but only time and miles will truly tell. "Methodology: iSeeCars.com analyzed 30 million used cars listed on iSeeCars.com over the last year and studied the vehicles with models years between 1981 to 2010 and those with over 200K miles on the odometer. For each vehicle model, the number of 200K mile cars as a percentage of the total number of vehicles listed for the model was calculated; the number was then used to rank each model."

Definitely check for parasitic draw. Your alternator was probably fine. Now your new battery will likely have diminished capacity after going flat.

My front crank seal was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold. Smell was strong particularly after parking in the garage, or when at rest (air not moving). Replaced under warranty.

I went 567 miles (913 kms) once. It filled 67 litres - way too close to the line, less than a gallon remaining in the tank. Also remember that your vehicle's estimation on those last kms may well be optimistic and the number will blank out at about 30 miles (!). I'm averaging 30.9 mpg lifetime (7.6 km/l) in a cold climate, mostly highway. Satisfied.

Most extended warranties will cost more than you recover. It's insurance. It's better to self-insure where the event will not cripple you. If your cash flow is so close to the line that a bill of a few thousand will throw your finances into a tailspin, insurance may give you the margin of safety and peace of mind. If not, self-insure as recommended. The car is likely reliable but not bulletproof. The decision is more about you and your personal situation and mindset.

It is one of the two items of envy which 3.6 owners have. The other being gas mileage. Otherwise, the 2.5i is considered inferior and anemic, and you'll consider it a small sacrifice to squirrel under the car and mess with the hatches and oil drips.

You can check the warranty extension on Canadian Subarus by VIN here: https://www.subaru.ca/WebPage.aspx?WebSiteID=282&WebPageID=21809

Don't overthink this. 5w30 is 5w30. Synthetic just breaks down slower and performs better at low and high temps. You can choose either. With the frequent changes required for warranty, synthetic may well be overkill in moderate conditions. For the 2.5, synthetic is required -- I've never seen the 0w20 in mineral. With my final change before warranty is up, I will likely move to a European formula or Amsoil and change at a 10,000 mile interval, using WIX filters.

I live in a dry area and saw no need to change the fluid at the 30,000 mile mark. I test the brake fluid for moisture at each oil change for a quick check. Will reconsider at 60,000 miles.

Here's a decent read about CVT oil life: click here. In a few words, it concludes that lifetime CVT oil is probable if: 1. Your transmission doesn't overheat. 2. You don't lose oil causing your transmission to overheat. 3. You don't put in the wrong oil, causing your transmission to overheat. So, checking your performance with a monitor and looking for leaks may be adequate insurance.

I think it is a rite of initiation. The Subaru faithful will put a little elbow grease into removing that wheel covering glue stuff and will immediately be more attached to their ride. The dealership wouldn't want to deprive us of that meaningful effort.

I don't have all the electronics figured out, but you could use a photocell pointed at the car lights to trigger the garage door when the vehicle starts.

In 2015, I was shopping got into a Mazda 6 at the dealer. I knew I didn't want to drive it. It felt like I was sitting too low and did not have sufficient visibility. The Legacy was a dramatic difference. I also have friend who bought one and says it's the thing he doesn't like about the car. So until they change body style I won't be owning my second one (first was a 626 in '88).