Sarang

Well I haven't committed yet, but Robert at FAT suggested that since I got ~190k out of my stock one, that I might expect the same out of a new stock fork. He also suggested replacing the pivot ball at the same time and the throw out bearing. I'm on an Exedy stage 1 clutch. Is there anything else in there that I should consider while we're in there?

Well mine lasted about 190k, so I guess I'm really not that bad off. You really might as well replace it when you're doing the clutch. It's only $40 now, but a lot more if you have to drop the tranny later.

I went back and checked, and I can freely move the end of the clutch fork. FFS this is turning into a whole thing. When I first diagnosed it the clutch fork was immovable. I wonder if the slave cylinder broke it the rest of the way. So I'll call Forced Air Technologies tomorrow, this is more than an apartment parking lot fix.

So I got the master changed out. It was a long tedious process and very frustrating. While I was bleeding the clutch, the (new) slave cylinder puked its guts out. Total failure. I am very frustrated. Time to see what Rockauto will do.

Alright I'm done for today. I didn't get any farther. Thanks for the help, I'm going to go at it fresh tomorrow. I did look at unbolting the whole brake and clutch pedal assembly, but two of the bolts are very hard to get at behind the steering column. I didn't think that I had a low profile enough socket, but now that I'm writing this I think my pass through socket set might work. Right now there are two hold ups: 1) the hard line on top of the master cylinder. I can get my flare wrench on it barely, but there is absolutely no room to turn it the correct way. I could tighten it 1/12 turn if I wanted tho. 2) the electrical plug on the master will not come unplugged. It seems that you have to pull it out right towards the firewall and there is no room. So all signs point towards removing the pedal assembly. The reason I stopped is that six jabronies got in a fist fight in the parking lot and I decided to leave the area. My girlfriend had come out to check on me, and I asked her to look at it and let me know if I was missing something obvious. Sixty seconds later I had to pat her knee and say "Hey, it's time to go right now" If I wasn't so tires and sore from the bad angles I'm sure I would have found it more entertaining. I did get the slave and the new hose installed easy peasy. That part was about as simple and fast as the youtube videos made it look.

Thank you!

Can anyone offer advice or tips for replacing the master cylinder? I'm stuck unable to remove the hard line on top of it. It just seams like it's impossible to get a tool there. I've removed the clutch pedal but still can't get at it. I'm taking a break now - I was getting frustrated - but I'll give it another go here soon.

I slept on it and then ordered the master, slave, hose, and union for the damper delete. They all arrive on Friday. I figure I'll use my Saturday and end up with a much better clutch feel. All in this really isn't a very expensive repair since I'm doing the labor myself... as long as this fixes it and I don't F something up.

So I just went out with my girlfriend and had her push in and pull out the clutch pedal while I watched the slave. The slave is leaking. The filler neck might be as well. Right now I'm considering ordering the slave and hose and just replacing those. Whoever came up with out master location: Who hurt you? The WRX's is so much easier looking. Ours is up behind the pedal in the car. Does anyone know if the master should be replaced with the slave? It doesn't appear to be leaking.

I looked and didn't see any signs of a leak. Right now I'm leaning towards replacing the master, slave, and hose; and then if that doesn't fix it taking it to a shop.

Is that on top? Since I have the fmic, the slave is very easy to get to. More good news: The master, slave, and hydraulic line are all on Rockauto for less than $100 + shipping, and NASIOC makes the replacement sound easy.

Tonight I limped her home. As I was turning, I noticed the clutch pedal go limp. Shifting in to third almost didn't happen. When I got up to speed I decided to try pumping the clutch and going in to fifth. That didn't happen. I coasted into a gas station parking lot. My clutch fluid was low so I bought some and topped it off. Started the car and pumped the pedal and it got softer and the fluid level didn't change. The pedal ended up staying down at the floor. I ended the evening by limping home: Starting it in first gear with the starter, then clutchless shifting into third. So now I'm beginning to read up on our clutch system to try to figure out what it might be and weather I can do it in an apartment parking lot :/ Any help or advice would be welcome.

It's probably worth an email or phone call to socal porting. I know they do cool stuff for the newer WRX turbos.

I'm at 190k as of the other day. I replaced head gaskets and clutch at ~147k, replaced some suspension bushings and rebuilt the turbo at 180k. Never left me stranded.

Same for my BFB: not once. Still works after ~2 years / I think.

I was thinking mostly about heat soak. If it's 115 in Phoenix and I've been sitting at a red light, that tmic is just baking. It would take a little bit to clear the heat from the heat sink, and then to start effectively rejecting the heat from the charge air. No bueno. I like the idea of a awic continuing to reject heat to outside of the engine bay even while at a stop, while keeping the responsiveness and minimal piping of the tmic setup. I like that idea for my LGT too, sometimes I wonder if it would have been a better move for me to go awic instead of fmic.

Yeah I gotta be honest, this FA24dit Legacy is very interesting to me. There's a lot more to learn, but I'm not sure that there is another new car that interests me this much to replace my '10 LGT. My wish list for it is: -Be able to swap Outback or Ascent suspension for a relatively cheap and oem quality lift. -tranny mods for durably increasing power/torque (I actually don't mind CVTs) -power mods in common with Ascent/WRX/future STI The ducting for the TMIC is F#@%ing stupid, but I guess a AWIC setup would be a relatively cheap easy solution.

I'm sorry, but cross shopping an STI vs Charger makes no sense to me. One is a sporty turbo 4 sedan "rally car" (quotes because marketing does not equal reality), and the other is a V8 boat. I'm not trying to be insulting, it's just that I wouldn't compare a Miata to a Camry either.

Sign up for a lease, immediately buy it out at the contractually set price. That total cost is less than purchasing upfront.

Does this mean that if I would like to add a WB, but not the gauge pod, that I could wire in the WB in place of the rear O2 sensor and then my tuner would be able to use the data? (With my AP v3)

IDK, mine does pretty good on jeep trails. I passed a Crosstrek that had chickened out in Escalante this summer. It's pretty fun to be the boring sedan parked in between a lifted Jeep and a Raptor.

^^ That is clearly not OEM, but I wonder if it would be good enough for BNR to upgrade it?

Mine doesn't do that. The heater won't blow until the coolant is 145 degrees.

Had to buy a jug of Rotella T6 while I was out and about today because my oil light came on. My last oil change was ~2000 miles ago and today it was below the low mark (hot). So this is the first time it has burned oil in a long time. I added about 3/4 of a quart and the light turned off. The jug was $30 at Autozone and $20 on Amazon, so I feel pretty good about always ordering from Amazon...

As mentioned previously, it's not certain what that result would be. Have you looked in to 1" strut spacers? Also, if you are on '10-'12 stock springs, the '13 springs help a lot with not scraping.