Sarang

Mine failed this year too. I had my Exedy stage 1 clutch replaced at the same time, and I swear the new clutch with the new fork feels 25% less stiff. It makes me wonder how long ago mine started to fail...

This looks like it: https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=tp&Product_Code=ATP-SUB-098

That's not helpful man. Moaning about how bad the dealership is to a forum of car enthusiasts is confusing to me. You know we're going to suggest that you do stuff yourself. I get it that you don't think that you should have to, but there's a reason why I do my own maintenance.

I read somewhere that they're 565cc, but I don't have a source handy.

lug nuts are 95 ft-lbs

This is the important bit. Don't go to dealerships for service work, especially for diagnostics. Their MO is to just go down a checklist and replace bits until you stop coming back.

Weird. My Nameless has like an inch of clearance there. You could even just hammer a dent in it if you wanted to, I'm sure it wouldn't affect flow much. I feel you on the protune. My first tuner never really got the low rpm boost spike under control. I ended up with a map that had a spike, then dip, then steady 18PSI. It was weird. Porting my waste gate and getting etuned eliminated that issue. If you're looking to save a buck, an etune is a decent option. You have to put in the time to do the runs yourself and send them logs, so it's not a one and done like a dyno tune should be.

The main argument to make is that they should not value yours based on the value of the 2.5i and 3.6R Legacies, in the same way that an STI is not valued like a base impreza. Your car does have the STI engine and a special six speed transmission. Therefore, they cannot in good faith use ANY value information for 2.5i or 3.6R in determining the value of yours. Those are different cars, not just different trim levels, just like a '10 STI vs a '10 impreza auto. My limited experience with insurance companies has been that just by sticking to your guns you tend to get a lot.

That sucks man. I got the ol' bait and switch with a turbo Baja that I went out to buy a few years ago from a Mazda dealership, but then I ended up finding my LGT. I hope you'll end up with something super cool to make up for this frustration.

Can you post a picture of where it's contacting? My Nameless DP isn't close to the body, so I'm having trouble picturing what you mean.

My old Celica had an additional spring preventing you from going in to reverse instead of a lockout. It almost took two hands to get it over that extra gate. It worked great, I don't know why they changed up to lockouts.

To be clear, while the diameter is 1.25" more than factory, that only brings it 0.75" closer tot he strut and the fender liner. You can verify that it'll clear the strut by sticking your thumb between your existing tire and the strut, if it fits and your thumb is at least 0.75" wide, you're good. I highly recommend willtheyfit.com It's a good resource. FWIW I ran my 225/50r18 tire on stock wheels with stock suspension for the life of the tires (~40k miles?) for part of it I had added 1" wheel spacers on all four wheels. I drove off road plenty and never once had them contact the fender liner.

The best way is to remove the wheel and look at the pads. Depending on what type of wheel you have, you might be able to see with the wheel still on. If you are comfortable doing that, I would highly recommend that you consider changing the pads yourself. It's just a couple more bolts are you can save yourself a couple hundred bucks.

FWIW I removed a bunch of my bumper at that lower opening, and I haven't had rigidity issues. Mine doesn't even have that center piece anymore. EDIT: Come to think of it, the lower grille I added probably aids is rigidity.

When are you going to retune? That FMIC looks sweet!

I ran 225/50r18 for a spell on stock GT wheels (18x7.5) I did read somewhere that 235/50r18 on stock wheels will contact the suspension strut. I think the strut will be an issue before the wheel wells are. Now I have 245/45r18 on 18x8 wheels. I do wonder sometimes if 245/50 would fit but I haven't tried it.

Perrin is not weighted, the Boomba is. I had both in my hands at one point and the Perrin is very slightly shorter throw if I recall correctly.

What do you guys think about this working for our turbos? https://www.cobbtuning.com/products/turbo/subaru-turbo-blanket-wrx-2015-2019

Boomba FTW. 5% is a rounding error, so why pay extra for the Cobb sticker?

I'm skeptical because we've been burned before with incorrect part compatibility listings... But I hope it works.

I don't think there is an option. Correct me if I'm wrong....

^ can you confirm that it would work? The seller only lists Legacy up to 2007, so I don't know if our cars are different.

It should be easy to tell. Like recently ground down metal with a more silver look to it. I don't think you'd mistake it.

The gasket on the flange lines up in the mid part of the turbo flange. And the gasket has a little ring etched in to the flange that it sits in. It really would be a nice flange if only the bolt hole spacing was better. The outlet is 1-3/4" which is what the turbo outlet is.