Sarang

I have had similar thoughts about mine lately too. I'm at ~205k miles with lots of mods. I have seen 3.6R Legacy's in my area with over 150k miles that are asking 5-7k. I like to think that I could get 6k for mine, but it's really hard to say for sure until it happens.

I forgot to update this: Replaced the hose, topped off the coolant and tested it and everything is fine. My upper radiator hose was bulging so he recommended that I replace it very soon. I did that on Saturday since it's an easy five minute swap.

Also the by pass valve is 25mm vs the LGT 34mm

Maybe. You'd be taking a risk to find out.

Do you have a picture of your boost curve?

Towed her to the shop. I got a pinhole leak in the hot side turbo coolant hose and overheated on the freeway. I'm crossing my fingers that nothing else is damaged :/

You know, there isn't much that I would say go to the dealer for... but go to the dealer. I have almost always been frustrated by alignments that I get elsewhere. Whether it's not getting the steering wheel straight the first time, or or not wanting to give me the print out for my records, or telling me that Subaru is wrong and I actually should have some toe in....

My Legacy did not have any exhaust clamps stock. Did you get a picture? Any reputable exhaust shop should be able to replace rusted exhaust parts without needing to purchase OEM parts. I had a muffler that I got on Amazon welded in for ~$50 a couple of years ago.

Invidia catted J pipe should not overboost. I had zero issues with my J pipe and stock exhaust, but later I had to port my wastegate on my turbo. If you don't want to do port it yourself, you could have a shop do it, but I would expect it to be pricey since it involves removing the turbo. It would also require a custom tune, either e-tune or dyno tune. So the best, most cost effective option is likely to install the Invidia catted j pipe and get a tune.

Check out subtle Solutions and Anderson Design Fab for other options. FWIW, I replaced my '10 springs with '13 3.6R springs and 1" strut top spacers with great results. No more embarrassing scraping going in to the grocery store parking lot, and it still looks stock to me. the springs are noticeably stiffer, about like how a stock sport sedan should be. The alignment is also fine.

The 15+ WRX turbo compressor outlet is also rotated and angled differently. Somewhere on here is a picture of their stock charge pipe next to ours and the difference is apparent. I have wondered if the Perrin charge pipe for the WRX would work, but I do not believe anyone has tried it yet.

It totally is - you get what you pay for. That said, it's probably better than stock and not likely to blow end tanks. Even if it just takes longer to heat soak because of increased volume, it's a compelling choice at that price. If you're interested, I have an old RacerX TMIC sitting in my closet that I'd send to you for cheap. I bought it from Rutchard a few years ago. It's well used, but functional.

I have a slightly more involved version that my dad taught me that has always served me well with used cars: Always open your hood and check your oil while you fill up. Look around the engine bay and visually check other fluids.

Great pictures - Thanks! This is a great excuse to buy a crow-foot set...

How was the install? I just replaced my reverse bulbs and now they don't light up at all. I'm thinking that I may be replacing mine here soon.

I think that means that you need to grease your starter.

Exactly. Why doesn't the WRX, STI, and BRZ/86 have more stuff that would appeal to me personally? Because I wouldn't buy one new anyways... Subaru is a business, so ultimately they exist to make money.

Age and the safety features available on new vehicles are a big part, but I also picked the LGT as a compromise of a bunch of wants and needs of mine: commuter, reliable, fun, capable on dirt roads, and some others. Now I'm in a part of my life where my needs and wants have changed some, and I'm thinking about not compromising as much. That said, it's actually very hard to think of parting with it. It's a good car and it really does just about everything that I ask of it. One option I am considering is to get a new Outback 2.5i Premium and just go all out on the LGT. I'd have a reasonable and capable daily in the OB, and a manual AWD fun car in the LGT. IDK though, I go back and forth a lot. Luckily I have decided to not buy anything until 2020, so I have lots of time to figure it out.

Yeah for sure. And if you could swap the assembly, then some related parts would be closer to bolt on, such as an FMIC.

I'm thinking of buying in early 2020. If I am going to sell the GT, and I haven't decided on that yet, I'd rather people test drive it when it's nice and cold out.

I do want to see and feel that material in person. If it really does breathe then it'll make my decision more difficult. My reasonable side tells me that I should really get the 2.5i as long as it's adequate because I won't be tempted to modify it. Just looking at the XT, I already want to upgrade to an FMIC or AWIC, and the rabbit hole just gets deeper from there...

The 2020 Outback is really calling to me today. I love the green exterior with the black cloth interior. Does anyone know if the DI issues have been resolved yet? Or is cleaning the intake valves just part of the maintenance? Part of me really wants the XT, but I'd hate to have to have leather seats. I'll need to test drive a 2.5i Premium to see if the power is adequate for me or not.

The 2020 Outback is really calling to me today. I love the green exterior with the black cloth interior. Does anyone know if the DI issues have been resolved yet? Or is cleaning the intake valves just part of the maintenance? Part of me really wants the XT, but I'd hate to have to have leather seats. I'll need to test drive a 2.5i Premium to see if the power is adequate for me or not.

https://www.rallysportdirect.com/part/blow-off-valves/gfb-t9133-go-fast-bits-mach-2-tms-recirculating-diverter-valve?gclid=CjwKCAjwkqPrBRA3EiwAKdtwk6kP1fDULDV3oM13vWRC1PaL9Jjcp3Fm5zNtFj8D2xlvnqfGLGrE7xoCLJYQAvD_BwE GFB t9133 and t9033 plug and play with our car. You need a 34mm bpv, beware that the 2015+ WRX uses 25mm so those won't fit without some sort of adapter.

I thought I read somewhere on NASIOC that it would fit the STI if not for the oil pan. I haven't tried it, but when my engine was out for the clutch fork, I stopped by my shop and held an FA20dit header up to mine and thought that it would probably fit. Anyways, I think that there's a good chance.