Sarang

The gasket for charge pipe > turbo outlet is the same size as the VF52, I know that for sure.

 

I might have something at home that works, let me verify tonight. (It's lucky that I have a 20G VF54 sitting in my closet to test it on)

How TF did you get yours to fit without cutting the bumper? We need more pictures please!

Mine's open

Rereading my posts I'm surprised that you could make sense of them... but I'm glad to help.

 

I wonder if the type 14 would be too tight, but you could angle it and try different orientations so probably you'd be fine. I wish it could center on the intake manifold, but I guess since the TB is offset that's not likely. The type 10 takes up less space, but I find it's flow less pleasing.

So between the stuff on the firewall and the intake manifold on the driver's side it's about 11 inches. Between the center of the intake manifold and the firewall is a little over 12 inches. You have about 16 inched before you'd hit the hoses and whatnot over by where the stock charge pipe routes. You could fit something about five inches thick with ease, but it looks like 6 inches thick is doable.

 

For something like this, I think mocking up a model out of cardboard would be the best possible option, because it's hard to be sure that a corner won't foul something making it all impossible.

My car is just outside and I have a tape measure, but I'm not sure that I understand what measurements you need. I'm going to go get some right now, but give me some more detail.

20G turbo is on the way.

Injectors are sitting in my closet.

Now I'm working on scheduling install and tune.

Tuning Alliance has a flex fuel kit and wide band O2 kit listed on their website. I inquired about 5th gen LGT compatibility.

 

http://tuningalliance.com

Stewdogg: When will yours be up and running? I can't wait to hear your impressions.

 

Islandborn: THANK YOU! That is exactly the kind of feedback that I was hoping for. I do like my lower RPM fun around the city, I'm just thinking about how I'd like some more higher up. Flex fuel is something I'm interested in, but I'm sort of waffling between doing that first or upgrading the turbo, or saying screw it and doing everything. But then again I don't really want to blow my engine next week...

Agreed.

 

Say, can you give me some insight into your preference between the 20G and 18G? Since my exhaust cams shouldn't limit me at that level I'm torn between the two. You dyno on Cobb's website seems to show that your 20G reached 325 torque only ~200rpm after the 18G.

What's that like driving around town? Like, how different is it if you're not getting on it?

When do you notice the difference most?

Is the top end very noticeable?

 

I think you've said before that you prefer the 18G. Anything you can tell me about the differences would be greatly appreciated.

 

(I'm going to go read the Power Roadblocks and Solutions thread for the nth time...)

I took a 3rd and 4th gear WOT log today to see what difference the TGV deletes and STI exhaust cams make without getting re tuned... and Gteaser was correct, no difference at all. Both runs were within 3%. Not even worth posting IMO.

Well I got my car back today. New clutch fork, clutch, STI exhaust cams, TGV deletes, and some other miscellaneous stuff like a new serpentine belt.

I wish I could say that I feel a difference, but all I'm feeling right now is the clutch damper delete. I stalled twice on the way home. So I need to get used to that I guess.

I'll get a WOT log when I get the chance to see if I can see any difference.

Spooling early is great, but you must take into account that with the motor spinning lower rpms, the cylinder pressures on the rods and crank are going to be higher than with the same boost at higher rpms. Without a built motor, cramming 18 pounds into the cylinders at 2700 rpms puts a lot more stress on the stock rotating assembly than at 3300 rpms.

 

To play devil's advocate, and because I don't think I fully understand all this:

Why not just set target boost much lower in the low rpm range - such as 12psi at 2500, 15psi at 3000, and full boost after 3000? Would that address the concern?

On the other hand, to combat the added spool of a slightly larger turbo, you could just shift 500 rpm higher all the time, right? (once it's appropriately warmed up of course) I'm thinking that if you used to shift at 3500rpm getting on the freeway, bump it up to 4000rpm and the 18G should seem to spool similarly to your stock turbo. Does that make sense?

 

Please don't hesitate to school me here if I have it all wrong. I'm trying to learn and be able to make informed choices about what I want for my car.

Considering bumping down to a 16G/TD05 + E85. I don't think anybody has done it before on a 5th gen.

 

I am interested in this idea. I have looked somewhat, and haven't found good comparisons between the 18G and 16G on the 2.5. Do you have any information that I might not have? If it is really just 97% of the power and spool 300rpm sooner, then that sounds great.

Yeah so you would need a pump, radiator hose, the radiator/heat exchanger, and the AWIC. You'd have to fab up the charge pipe, as well as mounting solutions for the AWIC and heat exchanger. I have thought about it some, but I didn't specifically price it up. You would need to wire in the pump to run all the time that the car is on. If the radiator got good enough flow - such as by taking up the entire lower opening of the bumper - then you might not really need ducting or puller fans.

What the easiest fitting (least amount of cutting) FMIC for the 5th gen? I imagine that is a better idea over running a TMIC with corn...?

 

Would you consider something like this?

http://www.frozenboost.com/liquid-air-intercooler/water-to-air-intercooler-p-1006.html

 

You'd have to deal with mounting, but I bet the type 101 heat exchanger would fit nicely between the crash bar and the bottom frame. I wonder sometimes of that's what I should have done instead of my FMIC, but I'm not willing to shell out the time, effort, and money to switch to an AWIC.

I initially looked at the USDM intake cams and they have a different part number than the STI cams. The STI intake cam hasn't changed since 2010.

 

Assuming the site is correct for part interchange, every BM/BR 5th Gen Legacy GT is going to have an oil scavenge as they all have a low mount turbo.

 

So I actually stopped by the shop working on my car today and he was in the middle of putting STI exhaust cams in my car. He was able to show me that our intake cams are the same part# exactly, while our exhaust cams are not and have noticeably less lift.

I intend to get a couple of WOT pulls of my car when I get it back so that we can get an idea of what STI exhaust cams and TGV deletes will do on an otherwise stage 2 ish car.

I didn't think to take pictures, but maybe I should have.

THANK YOU! Somehow I haven't read that thread before...

Also here is my email to BNR:

Good Morning!

 

I am interested in upgrading a VF54 turbo for my 2010 Legacy GT.

 

Would something like this work for a core? https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Turbo-Turbocharger-For-Subaru-Legacy-GT-Outback-XT-2010-2011-2012/292930336580?fits=Year%3A2011%7CModel%3ALegacy&hash=item4434023744:g:v3wAAOSw8~hcR-ox:sc:UPSGround!85257!US!-1

Obviously it is not OEM and I wouldn't trust the quality, but since you'd be replacing the CHRA anyways I wonder if it would work.

 

How long would it take to upgrade the turbo?

 

Could you comment on the difference in spool between the 18G, 20G and HTA71? How do they compare to stock? Do you happen to have any dynos, or an idea when each would reach 15psi?

 

Thanks!

 

and here is his response:

Should work.

 

I don’t have any sheets. The turbos are so small that they will all respond nicely!

 

 

Bryan Nickell

BNR Supercars LLC

(205)640-1193

 

So that's good to know that the ebay special vf54 would work for a core.

Nope, going for the HTA68/TD05 since I'll be running E85. Likely blow off my head gaskets in the next year or two....

 

If I was running 93, I would go with the 18g.

 

Thanks for the input guys, I'm digesting it. It comes to my attention that flex fuel might be better $/hp compared to just a turbo upgrade.

 

Why would the 18G be better than the HTA68 for ACN91? especially if they spool similarly

 

I do want to avoid too large of a turbo; I'm pretty averse to lag.

29, Male, Project Engineer/Estimator at a prominent mechanical contractor in the state.

 

2010 LGT, previous love was a 2002 Toyota Celica GT 6mt swap (still in the family)

 

FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, GFB BPV, 2013 3.6R springs & struts + 1" strut spacers, sway bars f&r, 25mm hubcentric spacers, Primitive skid plate, Perrin shift bushing, Boomba shift plate, Perrin shift stop, heavy steel shift knob, Perrin steering lockdown, rear diff bushing inserts, rear subframe bushing inserts, front strut bar, and, my personal favorite, Subaru logo puddle lights.

 

I'll update too:

Now 30; Project Manager; added group N transmission mount and now adding STI exhaust cams. Considering my next upgrades, possibly a hybrid turbo or flex fuel.

That is a really compelling data point, because it looks like it reaches 15psi at 3000 rpm and holds 17.8 psi to red line!

Thank you.

I am using 15psi as a benchmark to use to get an idea of how they would spool related to each other. I suspect that I would end up running 18-20 psi, but I would likely leave that up to my tuner.

Hey guys I am seriously considering upgrading my turbo and I'd like your input on which to go with. In particular, I am interested in spool and power increase over stock on my ACN91.

 

I am upgrading my cams, although I have not decided yet on GSC S1 or just STI exhaust cams.

 

BNR offers an 18g, 20g and HTA71. There are also several 20g options on ebay, but I would be more confident in BNR.

 

Spool characteristics:

Stock: 15PSI @ ~2700 - 3000 rpm (lots of dynos)

18g: 15PSI @ ~3000 rpm

20g: 15PSI @ ~3400 or ~3000 rpm (two different dynos, both 93)

HTA71: no info found, but one HTA68 15PSI @ ~3100 rpm

 

Does anyone have any more info on spool for the upgrade options?

 

If the HTA71 spools similar to the 18g, but has more flow potential than the 20g (with upgraded cams), then it's the clear winner... right?

 

I'd really appreciate any input. I would hate to spend this kind of money and later find out I missed something.

 

Thanks!

Would you have a dyno that you could post pretty please? Even a virtual dyno would be appreciated.