Sarang

Do you want something stiffer than stock? Do you want a drop at all?

I have 2013 3.6R springs and KYB struts on my LGT and I like them. I would call that a safe, budget friendly setup.

The Eibach springs are supposed to be similar to stock with a 1" drop, after that everything is stiffer I think.

For struts, there is an adjustable Koni option and Cusco makes some that I have not seen reviewed.

You are making a lot of assumptions on the height of driveways, and speed bumps there. I was scraping at stock height on a few, so now I just avoid those ones. I know with any kind of drop I would scrape on a few more I can't easily avoid.

I had that issue on normal-ish driveways with my 2010 springs. the 2013 springs that I installed fixed that.

IMO the 2010 springs were just too soft.

This is the joint between the plastic that wraps around the front, and the piece that the wheel-side corner clips to. You can see part of a finger from the lower piece that slides into the upper piece (in the forward direction). I stuck my shim in between the finger and the edge of the upper piece, so that when I tightened the bolt (pictured) it tightened the shim against the finger. That spaced it out enough for me.

 

Note: I don't recommend using a butt-splice connector as a shim, but its working.

 

Thank you!

And 'whatever is laying around' is exactly my version of a shim too

anyone know the inner diameter size of the hose that runs from the bpv ?.. is it the same as the vacuum hose for a boost gauge?

Yes.

I just walked mine in to Ace Hardware and matched it with the stuff on the spool, I don't remember the size.

I have a 2014 left side plastic piece that can be yours for the price of shipping. I picked it up at a scrap yard because I had the same idea.

 

After pulling the bumper off, I noticed that the clips were still in good shape so I just decided to shim the one that's on there. Didn't have to remove anything. I'm guessing it moved because I overtightened those bolts when remounting the plastic after my headlight swap. Might want to see if you can do the same thing

Can you explain some more how you shimmed it please?

I think I'll give that a try. I did remove the headlights to install new bulbs a while ago so I probably just borked it up.

The corner at the headlight and the fender. It looks fine at the wheel.

Replacing the clip part does sound like a good idea, but I'd hate to spend the ~$50 and it not be fixed.

The driver's side corner of my front bumper that will not just stay fxcking popped in. The tab's not even broken, it just won't stay in and pops out after most drives.

Does anyone know why this happens and how to avoid it? I'm going to be putting a new bumper on mine later this summer and I'd like to never have the problem again.

Mine does it on both sides. I can push it in and hear/feel an audible click, but when I walk out to the car again they are always popped out.

I noticed that there is a Mishimoto Thermostatic Oil Cooler for the 08-14 WRX on sale on Amazon, $260, if anyone's interested:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00GU8IM2Y/?coliid=I1AC8R5R505AXF&colid=25JWKAHK38T1M&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I have the Grimmspeed EBCS. I have it zip tied on because it does not mount, but the hoses are the same.

I think the Perrin inlet will work, I'm thinking about trying it.

What do you guys think about this fitting our cars?

https://www.perrin.com/shop/air-induction/3-0-inlet-hose-with-nozzle

I like the idea of the 3" silicone since it could later be hooked up to a 3" turbo inlet...

Does anyone have any experience with this: http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/afm-mr-freeze-water-methanol-injection-system/

I find it appealing since it is mechanical, but they say the tank would have to be lower than the turbo, which seems like a no-go on our cars.

The Invidia Catback exhaust ended up being louder than I expected. I like the way it sounds at idle (it might even be too quiet at idle), normal accelerating, and WOT. It has nice gurgle between shifts. It is a little loud (some resonance) during regular driving on my back road commute, but it is OK. On the highway with higher loads it gets a little bit louder than I would like. The exhaust I have has been used for a few thousand miles so has some soot build and probably won't get much quieter. I may end up installing another resonator in the exhaust.

FWIW, I had a similar experience with my used Q300. it was a little too droney/loud on the freeway and when driving in my condo complex at ~1800 rpm. I had a 3" Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator welded in that completely solved the problem for me. Drone gone. Volume decreased by around 10%. It's more flat or dull sounding below 3k rpm, but once you're I'm in boost and/or above 3k rpm the sound gets much more raw and aggressive (as it was before adding the resonator).

This part number includes the gasket & thermostat 21210AA030. I put the STI thermostat in as well when I did my timing belt/water pump.

 

I didn't datalog mine to for comparision but I am surprised that it made that much of a difference. The GT (at least 2012) used the 21200AAAA230 variation which initial opening is later but has the same full open temperature according to Perscitus

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4989095&postcount=14760

Interesting. Maybe my results have more to do with the radiator than the thermostat?

I thought of this as cheap insurance for the heat. Any extra power I can (safely) get when it's hot out is nice too, but I am acutely aware that my car was not tested in the Phoenix summer.

Changed the oil and installed the Mishimoto radiator and OEM STI lower temp thermostat today.

Part #s:

MMRAD-STI-08

21200AA072

Install of the rad was a bit of a pain. As a BBPeik mentioned when he wrote up his experience, I ended up grinding down a significant amount of the plastic fan support on the passengers side and one of the fan bolts. As it sits now everything clears but only just. I used a brass threaded cap from the hardware store to plug the extra hole that our cars do not use.

Results:

The car used to sit at 210-215 F in traffic, hanging out at ~200 in cruise, and occasionally getting down to ~190 if I coasted down an offramp.

Now it hangs out at 185-190 in traffic, got up to 192 after a third and fourth gear pull, and stabilized at 188.4 even when I coasted down the offramp.

I'm happy, hopefully this will help the ECU to be willing to keep the AC on next time its 127 out and I'm driving up that super long uphill section of the I-10 out by Coachella. (Last time I was seeing coolant temps up to 237 and the ECU turned off the AC at 222, not fun in the summer driving in to the setting sun...)

Mine is in use and functioning. I did port my wastegate.

I though about going catless, but I don't really want to buy another downpipe because you know I won't be able to sell my Nameless one...

I'd say the most cost effective option if you already own it is to port the wastegate when you install it and then get a pro tune.

are you on oem or brembos/bbk?

oem

I have heard a few here say the Hawk pads squeal. Are they more meant for track use?

Mine have not squealed at all in ~20k miles

GTEASER

Where did you get the rear diff bushing? Who makes it? I was looking at the box but couldn’t read it since the bushing is covering it up. Let me know. Thank in advance

 

 

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Prothane 161610

Stout yes, but a performance turd.

I had an ex like that...

I'm still on stock clutch at jus over 115k. How long has everyones lasted?

I had mine replaced back at ~130k when my head gaskets were done. I was surprised to find it was still the factory clutch

Just doubting myself, ...

 

Can I install my charge pipe and full recirc bpv without tuning?.. I'm thinking yes, but am doubting myself.

Yes... although a tune would optimize any gains.